DIY FleXy Rack instructions?

vinyldavid

Collectorius Giganticus
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Well, tnt-audio is NOT working for me, and I wanted to build some FleXy racks for my gear soon, and I was wondering if anyone had the instructions saved, or if you have built them, some tips and tricks to make them better.

EDIT: I feel like an idiot. It's back up.

Does anyone have some suggestions for mods to this design? Like using hardwood instead of MDF.
 
The Best advice I could give is to make sure each shelf is exactly the same. Exactly.

Also I used 4 rods with mine vs three I think it looks better. by far. use 3/4 rods and it will be very stiff. 5/8 is still good enough but 3/4 is better.

Rather than use long rods use two smaller size rods joined together with a coupler (if you want one tall rack) or take them apart and have two smaller racks side by side! More Versatile :) I didnt use rubber washers on mine. Or metal washers either. yes it crushes the wood down a bit around the hole but does not look like some kind of screw up. Gives it a sleeker look. I modeled mine more after the salamander Archetype series vs the flexy rack.

Also dont get worried. It will be very flexy until you tighten down all the nuts. ;)
 
Well, I am wondering just how much weight that one of these could support, as one might be supporting over 100 pounds of tape machines and turntables....

I was also thinking of using 4 rods. How big dud you all make your shelves?

I want to make these "upgrade ready" which could be anything from Maggie console amps to big G's.

And how would I protect my carpet from the steel? And also, I would HAVE to build 2, as I will he having 2 racks of gear (tape machines + TT, and amplification, digital sources, and video sources).

Also, what is the average cost for one of these? My parents are paying (they gave me a dresser to puts stuff on and it is breaking in half), and I want a general idea of the cost.
 
Cost depends on what kind of wood you use and how many shelves you want etc. Expect to spend $80-150 or so.

I weigh 220lbs and can stand on mine without worrying about it. Thats on one shelf. For my shelves I used Birch plywood. Cut them with a table saw to all the same size then drilled 3 or 4 at a time making sure everything is clamped to keep it all lined up.

You can get rubber feet like those used on the bottom of chairs and such that will fit right over the all thread rods just like something you would buy at a store. I made my shelves 2' wide by 20" deep IIRC.
 
Cost depends on what kind of wood you use and how many shelves you want etc. Expect to spend $80-150 or so.

I weigh 220lbs and can stand on mine without worrying about it. Thats on one shelf. For my shelves I used Birch plywood. Cut them with a table saw to all the same size then drilled 3 or 4 at a time making sure everything is clamped to keep it all lined up.

You can get rubber feet like those used on the bottom of chairs and such that will fit right over the all thread rods just like something you would buy at a store. I made my shelves 2' wide by 20" deep IIRC.

OK. I was thinking of one set with 5 shelves, and one with 8.....both the same height.

5: Teac A-3340S, Teac A-6010, Akai GX912 (cassette), Turntable, future DBX 200 or 400, or some sort of source switcher.

8: Receiver, EQ, CDP, VCR, DVD player, future LD player, and the other two for whatever amps that I end up getting, whether mono or stereo. When I get a pre, I could swap out the receiver.

Does this sound like it would be too big?
 
The design uses 3 feet for a reason - stability. The weight is more evenly distributed over 3 legs. Also gives some support in the middle to prevent sag.

Generally plywood is stronger than the same thickness of MDF, although MDF may be better at absorbing vibrations. If you go with plywood use 7 ply - birch faced 3/4" will be 7 ply. The lumber yard will do simple cuts for a modest fee.

You can find all sorts of feet from rubber cups to steel gliders at any Lowes type store.
 
The design uses 3 feet for a reason - stability. The weight is more evenly distributed over 3 legs. Also gives some support in the middle to prevent sag.

Generally plywood is stronger than the same thickness of MDF, although MDF may be better at absorbing vibrations. If you go with plywood use 7 ply - birch faced 3/4" will be 7 ply. The lumber yard will do simple cuts for a modest fee.

You can find all sorts of feet from rubber cups to steel gliders at any Lowes type store.

I would seriously hesitate to put my Teac A-3340S and A-6010, which are NOT deep pieces on shelves that have no front feet. And they have a high center of gravity, so they exert a LOT of stress on the wood.

Do you think that the wood would be able to support it?
 
pict0047dx4.jpg

I think it is better to use three rods and keep them long. Don't forgo the washers, they are integral to the unit's ability to reduce unwanted resonances. You will also have less resonance with three rods than four, it will be much easier to put together with three rods than four, it is easier to level with three rods than four, and the unit is much stronger if you use full length rods. If you have a drill press to drill the holes in the shelves, use it. It will make assembly much easier to have uniform shelves.

Place the TEAC on the shelf center and it will be fine.
 
I have a four shelf DIY rack.
Four 3/4", 36" threaded steel rods.
Four 1" x 24" x 16" solid pine shelves.
32 3/4" steel washers.
32 3/4" steel nuts.
I put my amp on the bottom shelf, as it weighs the most.

Steve
 
I'd personally go with 3 one inch rods. A little bit more expensive (a buck or two) but stability and load carrying is better (a little). Also, they had the 1 inch rubber washers but not the 2/3 inch when I was shopping.

You could try Maple. It is suppose to absorb vibrations better. Be prepared for sticker shock. And you may not be able to get the size you wish.

The reason for three rather then for is.. well... has something to do with transmitting vibrations.

Load. With 3/4in rod and 1inch MDF, about 1500 lbs. You'll have more issues with the spikes maring the floor then load.


However, if you really want to go crazy, you could do one of the following:
http://www.audiotweaks.com/diy/rack/page01.htm

There is another guy in denmark I think who uses 3 pieces of 1/2 MDF per shelf. The center piece has a couple of large holes which he fills with damping material. He then uses contact cement to bind three into 1 3/4 inch piece. A little routing on the edges and it's a nice piece of furnature...
 
The problem is that the thicker you make everything, the more expensive things become. I spent about $30 for my rack made of 1/2" MDF with 4 1/2" rods. I have really liked mine, it has worked out great so far for what I need it for. If I ever need more weight, I can always go back and build a bigger one. But for supporting, my TT, receiver, CD player, and some magazines and vinyl, it works great.

The best advice I can give is to plan everything out before hand so you know exactly what to do. I drew out all my plans in AutoCAD so I knew what I was going to do. That made it a lot easier. Also don't skimp on finishing, sand everything correctly and round edges, it makes everything a lot nicer in the end.
 
Well my girlfriend has a Drill Press in her basement, and I can use that. I wouldn't do this project without one.

I wouldn't be using spikes, lol. NOT on apartment carpet.

Now, just to get parents un-pissed at me.
 
pict0047dx4.jpg

I think it is better to use three rods and keep them long. Don't forgo the washers, they are integral to the unit's ability to reduce unwanted resonances. You will also have less resonance with three rods than four, it will be much easier to put together with three rods than four, it is easier to level with three rods than four, and the unit is much stronger if you use full length rods. If you have a drill press to drill the holes in the shelves, use it. It will make assembly much easier to have uniform shelves.

Place the TEAC on the shelf center and it will be fine.

I think you hit it on the head on all of the above...

I've admired your Stacked Advents and Flexy more than once :thmbsp:
 
David, I thought you wanted the DBX 600 for a song. We can drop it off this Saturday, IF you want it, and if one of your parents will be there when we drop it off.

Otherwise it goes to our church.
 
David, I thought you wanted the DBX 600 for a song. We can drop it off this Saturday, IF you want it, and if one of your parents will be there when we drop it off.

Otherwise it goes to our church.

Yeah, I would love it, I got only ONE problem. I am still absolutely broke. I mean, literally, about a dime to my name.
 
I made one with 3/4" rods. I used the "acorn" type nuts for feet. To find acorn nuts this diameter, you might have to go to a place like McMaster-Carr or other industrial supply houses.
 
10 shelf flexy adaptation. Four 3/4" thread rods with 3/4" plywood on casters. It has at least 100lbs of amps and 7 sources on it.
 

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Well, I am wondering just how much weight that one of these could support, as one might be supporting over 100 pounds of tape machines and turntables....

I was also thinking of using 4 rods. How big dud you all make your shelves?

I want to make these "upgrade ready" which could be anything from Maggie console amps to big G's.

And how would I protect my carpet from the steel? And also, I would HAVE to build 2, as I will he having 2 racks of gear (tape machines + TT, and amplification, digital sources, and video sources).

Also, what is the average cost for one of these? My parents are paying (they gave me a dresser to puts stuff on and it is breaking in half), and I want a general idea of the cost.

Use three legs, it will be naturally stable...a plane is defined by three points, not four. Who said geometry is useless!

Flexy racks are bad news for turn tables. Put it on a wall mounted rack just above your flexy rack. Buy everything at home depot, they will even cut the boards for you! Drill the first board, then use it as a pattern for the second, and so on.



russellc
 
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