I believe the lower taps have longer windings in the autoformers.Can an Engineer explain in lay terms what I am doing by using the lower ohm taps with the 8 ohm speakers?
I am loving the 6 ohm taps and am contemplating the 4 ohm taps next. Am I taxing the amps more this way? Why isn't this in my owner's manuals??:scratch2:
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I believe the lower taps have longer windings in the autoformers.
Going to a lower tap is actually easier on the amps.
The tradeoff is: If you have a MC602 and 8 ohm speakers and use the 4 ohm taps you will only have a 300 watt amp. If you have 4 ohm speakers and use the 8 ohm tap you will have a 1200 watt amp but over driving it like this could cause it to overheat.Then why isn't this standard and recommended protocol? I am trying to wrap my mind around this. I am having a hard time finding the tradeoffs. :scratch2:
The tradeoff is: If you have a MC602 and 8 ohm speakers and use the 4 ohm taps you will only have a 300 watt amp. If you have 4 ohm speakers and use the 8 ohm tap you will have a 1200 watt amp but over driving it like this could cause it to overheat.
As long as your solid state McIntosh amp does not run too hot or the protection circuit come on, use the taps that sound best to you. If your amp runs too hot or the protection circuit comes on, use the next lower tap.
My previous post was an over simplified explanation because in the real world the speakers impedance is constantly changing with the music it is playing. So it is difficult to say what you amps actual available output is on a given tap with a given speaker. Many speakers that are listed as 8 ohm will drop impedance in the bass making is act like a 4 ohm speaker. Just keep in mind that with the protection circuits in McIntosh amps, it's very unlikely you will damage your amp so use the taps that sound the best to you.Well, I jumped from the 8's to the 6ohm taps and saw a huge improvement. I guess I am at 450 watts then right :scratch2:.
So since the watts are decreased is the voltage (or amperes?) increased? I forgot how the math works. I was banging up against the powerguards alot with the 8 ohm taps and not at all with the 6 ohm taps. Sound pressure seems to be @ the same level. I need to get a SPL meter to be sure.:yes:
BTW The factory rating for the speaker is 8ohms. Maybe they aren't?
This idea is a last resort and not for the faint hearted. On the other hand it is inexpensive. If nothing else works, you can experiment with "padding down" the tweeter by putting resistors of various values on the positive terminal until you find one that does the trick. By doing this you are turning down the volume of the tweeter. I would call a company like Madisound for advice.
I've seen reviewers claim some of the newer iterations are a bit brighter, but I'd give break-in a chance. As stated earlier, one of the big draw-backs of the high end B&Ws is that they are relentlessly unforgiving for any flaws in the stream of execution prior to getting to them.
If the source material is poorly recorded - You'll know it.
You'll notice changes in cabling
You'll notice weaknesses in source electronics (CD players, TTs, decks)
You'll notice differences in different amps too. I run a pair of Adcom GFA 555IIs bi-amping my B&Ws and if I use my 555 instead of my 555II (different, but very nearly identical amps) the 555 is noticeably brighter through the B&Ws. I don't notice it if I drive my Energy 22s with it - a pretty darned good speaker.
Good luck & keep us posted. I'd be interested to hear what you narrow it down to.
don't be afraid to use the tone controls - that's EXACTLY what they are there for. You paid for them - use them!
On some recording, tone controls are a must have... IMHO.
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Some room-tips:
Avoid big pictures with glass-fronts, they will act like acoustic mirrors. Real paintings made on canvas on the other hand has shown to be very effective diffraction that reduces flutter-echo surprisingly well. And they looks better too.
Do not use leather-furniture in your listening-room. While an upholstered sofa will act like a absorbent a leather-sofa will not calm down Your room the same way.
* I`m running 7awg in the lower end
Tone controls for the win and an easy one at that .Room treatment? DEFINITELY. Curtains, pillows, etc.
Also, if the system sounds OK with some records and not OK with others, don't be afraid to use the tone controls - that's EXACTLY what they are there for. You paid for them - use them!
On some recording, tone controls are a must have... IMHO.
With my C220, a combination of treble taming (9 o'clock) and bass boosting (3 o'clock) can turn a thin, shrill sounding record into something that's really enjoyable.
Alberto
BTW, when I listen to Led Zeppelin, I always boost the bass. I've heard them live and John Bonham wanted you to hear his oversize drum kit - especially the bass drum in your gut .