pioneer sx 1010 problems

[markthefixer]

on board awh-032 can i use poliester caps in place of both c1 & c2? i found a previous post that called for mouser # 5989-100v.68 for c1, and i have found 5989-100v1.5f for c2. i am unshure of what the difference is between the electrolitic and poliester are other than the electrolite. what are the differences??? i am planing to make a hopefull finall order from mouser friday and needed to get some input from the masters. i know i need insulators to be able to regrease my outputs so i figured id get the rest

pay attention to the size differences in the caps, it may be like trying to balance a bucket on a postage stamp.

Stacked films have excellent high frequency characteristics due to their construction, it's just that they are honking huge - but have been getting smaller. They are bi-polar or unipolar and don't use electrolyte so they won't dry out.

On the higher end units, Pioneer MADE room for them on the amplifier cards...
so yes, if it fits, use it.

 

[turbolite81]

pay attention to the size differences in the caps, it may be like trying to balance a bucket on a postage stamp.

Stacked films have excellent high frequency characteristics due to their construction, it's just that they are honking huge - but have been getting smaller. They are bi-polar or unipolar and don't use electrolyte so they won't dry out.

On the higher end units, Pioneer MADE room for them on the amplifier cards...
so yes, if it fits, use it.

yeah im not shure if they will fit. i found some electrolytic replacements. can i bump from 25 v to 50v and run a 20% tollerance. the ones i found are at mouser and were considered high impedance capacitors. the only other options were low leak down at 10% but on back order. the ones i found were 647-upv1hr68mfd for c1 & 647-upj1h1r5mdd for c2

 

[markthefixer]

so yes, if it fits, use it

grumble......
metallized polyester cap parts numbers for sx-1010 input:
(choose ONE of each...)

1.5uf

5989-100V1.5-F Cornell Dubilier 100v $1.02 6.5 W x 18.5 L x 13.4 H 15mm spacing

505-MKS21.5/50/10 Wima 50v $1.01 4.5 w x 9.5 h x 7.2 L 5mm lead spacing

667-ECQ-E2155KB Panasonic 250v $0.91 9 mm W x 18.5 mm L x 16.8 mm H 10 mm lead spacing


0.68 uf

505-MKS2.68/63/10 Wima 63v $0.63 4.5 w x 9.5 h x 7.2L 5mm lead spacing

5989-100V.68-F Cornell Dubilier 100v $0.67 6 mm W x 12.5 mm L x 11.9 mm H 10 mm Lead Spacing

667-ECQ-V1H684JL Panasonic 50v $0.45 6.5 mm W x 7.3 mm L x 10 mm H 5mm lead spacing

 

[turbolite81]

thank's. i know im driving you guy's nuts,,,,sorry about that

 

[markthefixer]

That's the input coupling capacitor, when it leaks electrically your offset will go off the charts, and as it looses value the bass response will diminish.

Are you SURE it uses C1 and C2, sometimes there are factory mods that whittle it down to one of a different value.

Frankly, I have done that before, and on personal units, I get the part with my next order and tape the bag to the back of the unit, for later installation. If something starts sounding bad, it gets me motivated to do it sooner.

Turbolite, on Mark's list in above post #103 shows two capacitors. Both being used in signal path. The older model has both but the newer model ONLY have 0.68uf. Check your amplifier board before you decide to order those 1.5uf. My amplifier board does not use 1.5uf but only use 0.68uf because it's a newer model. I used stacked film in that. Works great.

That's the trouble with these type of threads, things get missed, or not hammered on strongly enough when the OP is distracted.

Nuts? no - just research I either have done before and not saved, or put off doing. I'm learning to save EVERYTHING I do... in the right place in my system - sooner or later I'll need it again.... for youze guyz or myself....

 

[turbolite81]

i guess mine is an older unit. it runs (c1 .68), (c2 1.5), (c4 10),& (c8 330)

 

[turbolite81]

ok i dont get this. i am re capping my final board, (awg-027) control amp assy. on my manual and for what i have found on this site, the caps 49,50,51,&52 are supposed to be 47 uf 16v. the ones i just removed are 100uf 16v. what do i have going on here??? can i use the 47 uf????

 

[markthefixer]

ok i dont get this. i am re capping my final board, (awg-027) control amp assy. on my manual and for what i have found on this site, the caps 49,50,51,&52 are supposed to be 47 uf 16v. the ones i just removed are 100uf 16v. what do i have going on here??? can i use the 47 uf????

Yes.

Either one is fine in those positions, they are power supply RC filters, coupled with R59 - R62 (2.2k).

There are always production variations in what actually goes in, what they started the design with, what the bean counters whittled them down to, and what the finally agreed to say in the service manual. To compound matters, you need an experienced eye to tell if those are original caps, or someone else's bright idea.

In this case it doesn't matter (much).

 

[turbolite81]

thank you mark!!!!!!! i should be done with this beast tomorrow. woo hoo!!!

 

[turbolite81]

i want to thank everyone for their patience and help! this stereo sounds and looks brand new now. i could not me more pleased, thanks again

 

[ZeroJunk]

Congrats, glad you got it going. They sound about as good as anything, to me anyway.

 

[flatmap]

Agree with ZeroJunk that this model sounds very nice. Terrific that you've put so much of your own effort into this to get it back in action.

 

[turbolite81]

im trying to find the matching original components now for this unit. i remember my dad had a set of bad ass 15" speakers with a lattice type grill and a wood case turntable, all bought at the same time in 74. does anyone have an idea what model #s they might be

 

[Tinitus]

Maybe a PL-12D or PL-71 TT and CS-99a speakers?

 

[turbolite81]

i have noticed that this unit wants to kick off under a good bass hit at about 1/3 volume. that is with both low freq knobs set at +1. im pushing a set of cv at-15 speakers, they sound like they want way more but the unit wont do it. what i really dont get is that i had the unit up and it shutoff twice before i was able to get in the same room and then it played flawless. is there something going wrong or is this normall for this beast. now if i were to turn it up more after that, it does the same thing. on,off,on,off, so on and so forth. the sound is awsome at higher volumes and sounds crystal clear,but wont seem to go much more than 1/3,unless the bass is reduced to the negative settings. any ideas out there??????:scratch2:

 

[w1jim]

I haven't read through the entire thread but it sounds like the power supply can't deliver. If you didn't replace the big power supply caps now may be the time.
JimB

 

[markthefixer]

Aren't these 400 watt 4 ohm speakers? That need about 150 watts to light them up?

Sounds like you're running out of amp.....

 

[EchoWars]

Sounds like the current limit transistors on the protect board might be kicking in...if your problem description (unit 'kicking off') means that the protect relay is opening up.

 

[turbolite81]

ok so im just running out of juice then??? what i have found about my vegas is they are 4 ohm and have a wattage rating of min 5w and max 400w. i only run the 2 speakers. i knew for shure id cook something if i tried to add a rear section

 

[turbolite81]

my speaker select switches are starting to fade and get staticky again. i used the deoxit d5 followed with the g5 multiple times during the rebuild. do i need to repeat that process a few more times for perfection or do i need to r&r the switches? if i do need to replace the switches are there any sugestions on where to go