Tutorial: "Deep Cleaning" An Amplifier

[Machineghost]

Hello everyone, and a Happy New Year!

Probably stupid question, but I'll ask it anyway: what about using a small hand held steam cleaner (household type), or is the steam actually too hot and dangerous for the pcb/electronic components?
I inherited a very nice set of Pioneer "silver line" components from my father: amp, tuner, tape deck, turntable, even a digital clock! all on an original Pioneer cabinet, and it's just a shame not to put it to use... First chance I get I"ll post photos

Thank you in advance,
Vagelis, Greece

Mmmm - I am not so sure about the steam procedure. The detergent method dissolves oily residue and it then gets rinsed away with copious amounts of water.

 

[Machineghost]

Hi everyone,


I followed this great tutorial for my 18years old AKAI AM69 amplifier.
I removed transformer as suggested. After washing sequence i realize that, AKAI had another small transformer on main supply board. I left machine to dry for three days. After that i put the amplifier in a fridge for one hour.

Amplifier is working fine for now. But it has four relay switches. One is attached on main pcb, another one is on preamplifier pcb, other two is next to capacitors. Since then when i power up the amplifier, i heard one relay click (i checked which one it is, its on main supply pcb) and no sound at all. Sometimes its working fine. This problem happens randomly. And another thing is bugging me. I have the schematics for AM69. This another transformer named as subtransformer and it is overheating and make a low buzzing sound while amplifier is on.

Is this means subtransformer is damaged? I need your suggestions badly..
This amplifier is not a piece of electronics for me. It is more than that.


Thanks,

ps. i attached a picture. Black arrow shows the subtransformer location.

Hello Starbender

If a transformer is powered up wet it causes serious damage...

Tell me, why did you place the amp in a FRIDGE? Did I read that correctly?

Some relays are not sealed and water will get inside. You must try and open them to dry the water out properly.

Try getting the specs for the "sub transformer" and replace it with a similar voltage ratio unit. It is most likely a 110 vac - 12 vac unit.

 

[Starbender]

Hello Starbender

If a transformer is powered up wet it causes serious damage...

Tell me, why did you place the amp in a FRIDGE? Did I read that correctly?

Some relays are not sealed and water will get inside. You must try and open them to dry the water out properly.

Try getting the specs for the "sub transformer" and replace it with a similar voltage ratio unit. It is most likely a 110 vac - 12 vac unit.

Sorry for my bad english
It's should be 'oven'. Not Fridge.


I checked the subtransformer yesterday. I removed metal cover and checked transformer visually. It looks like a bullet proof sealed.

About relays; i studied carefully. I'm sure that they dried properly.
I' trying to gather info about this subtransformer.

Thanks a lot

 

[doctorolds]

This is a great post with many comments from many other experienced people. My question relates to the detergent being used. Has anyone used "Simple Green" or "Mean Green" as the main detergent? If so, was it diluted? I have a few receivers that I am getting ready to clean up. I only see pictures from the ghost, which I find odd, but I will post some when my projects are complete. Thanks to all for the input.

 

[Machineghost]

This is a great post with many comments from many other experienced people. My question relates to the detergent being used. Has anyone used "Simple Green" or "Mean Green" as the main detergent? If so, was it diluted? I have a few receivers that I am getting ready to clean up. I only see pictures from the ghost, which I find odd, but I will post some when my projects are complete. Thanks to all for the input.

Is it the same as Wynns Kleen Green? If so it will work yes...

 

[ryfox0276]

This is a great post with many comments from many other experienced people. My question relates to the detergent being used. Has anyone used "Simple Green" or "Mean Green" as the main detergent? If so, was it diluted? I have a few receivers that I am getting ready to clean up. I only see pictures from the ghost, which I find odd, but I will post some when my projects are complete. Thanks to all for the input.

I used simple green undiluted. Same basic biodegradable cleaner. Watch out with scrubbing though because it can really foam up! I just used a simple paint brush to work it into all the nooks and crannies.

 

[Machineghost]

It would be good if other posters that used this method can post some before/after pics... TIA

 

[doctorolds]

Machineghost, I have read through all pages of this post and have a couple quick questions.

1. I have heard people rave about DeOxit and the results achieved, but that does not seem to be true in this post. Am I correct to assume that "Deep Cleaning" will produce better results with no lingering side effects?

2. If the answer to question #1 is true then does this apply to all types of pots, L-Pads, variable resistors, etc.? Any thing specifically not to use this method on?

3. I have a Pioneer SX-V90 Receiver from 1984-1985, part of the "Communication Series" I believe, see post #4 here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=35712. It has served me well all these years but the switches are very dirty and intermittent at this point and was wanting to perform a deep clean on it also. Anything to be cautious about, and will it work on these types of switches?

Thank you in advance for your time. By the way, I have lots of other 1970's silver gear.

 

[Machineghost]

Machineghost, I have read through all pages of this post and have a couple quick questions.

1. I have heard people rave about DeOxit and the results achieved, but that does not seem to be true in this post. Am I correct to assume that "Deep Cleaning" will produce better results with no lingering side effects?

2. If the answer to question #1 is true then does this apply to all types of pots, L-Pads, variable resistors, etc.? Any thing specifically not to use this method on?

3. I have a Pioneer SX-V90 Receiver from 1984-1985, part of the "Communication Series" I believe, see post #4 here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=35712. It has served me well all these years but the switches are very dirty and intermittent at this point and was wanting to perform a deep clean on it also. Anything to be cautious about, and will it work on these types of switches?

Thank you in advance for your time. By the way, I have lots of other 1970's silver gear.

Hi there

Yes - this method has no lingering side effects when executed properly.

Just be very careful with transformers - they must not be submerged in water at all. Remember to apply a small drop of lubricant to the tuning capacitor shaft (and related mechanics) after the wash and dry.

The wash process removes all dust and sticky contaminant deposits from pots and switches and makes the units perform like new again. Just never soak the PCB and other parts in detergent/water for longer than what is needed to wash it clean.

And remember - the PCBs and switches need to be DRY before you re-assemble. Dry it out properly using compressed air and a mild-heat source such as a hair dryer.

 

[vibroverbus]

Machineghost, I have read through all pages of this post and have a couple quick questions.

1. I have heard people rave about DeOxit and the results achieved, but that does not seem to be true in this post. Am I correct to assume that "Deep

Hmmm... I think "NO" is the answer to your question but maybe I misunderstand it. Basically this kind of washdown is an excellent process to use IN CONJUNCTION WITH DeOxit or other type of control cleaner/lubricants.

I virtually never just do the wash down, but do both. Most often I disassmble top / front / bottom / etc panels and do the wash first. Then use DeOxit (sometimes another brand or type but most often that) on all the mechanical controls. DeOxit is required to penetrate and condition the control services and because it contains the magical oleic acid, will do some further cleaning to the internals.

There are rare times that I have soaked pots first with cleaner / lubricant, THEN done the wash, THEN re-De-Oxited, but those are cases when I had something really abused and potentially corroded or crusty and I really wanted to slather on the cleaner/control-lube first, then use the wash to clean away the excess, then finally DeOxit for the final coating to leave on.

 

[doctorolds]

Hmmm... I think "NO" is the answer to your question but maybe I misunderstand it. Basically this kind of washdown is an excellent process to use IN CONJUNCTION WITH DeOxit or other type of control cleaner/lubricants.

I was just wondering if applying DeOxit will leave a residue that may cause the controls to get dirtier faster versus not using it and simply doing a deep cleaning. It takes a fair amount of time to complete a deep cleaning and I only desire the best results.

I know a guy that will actually drill a small hole in some plastic enclosed switches and spray DeOxit in there. I do not know if he seals them back up or not.

 

[vibroverbus]

I was just wondering if applying DeOxit will leave a residue that may cause the controls to get dirtier faster versus not using it and simply doing a deep cleaning. It takes a fair amount of time to complete a deep cleaning and I only desire the best results.

I know a guy that will actually drill a small hole in some plastic enclosed switches and spray DeOxit in there. I do not know if he seals them back up or not.

You are half right - you don't want to use any of those oily-lube control cleaner / lube products on most audio pots because it does attract dust and gunk. But DeOxit and similar high end oleic acid (and other exotic goodies) containing cleaners are decidedly not a problem as long as you are judicious and don't fill the entire pot housing with liquid. Even then its so thin most runs right out but it's better to just do a nice moderate spritz and not waste the stuff anyway.

But the cleaning effect and light lubrication you do get is highly desirable. Washing the board and chassis is no substitute for that, period.

So if you "only desire the best results" then you should definitely do this. I guess the alternative would be "desire to get poor results" in which case you should continue to avoid DeOxit.

 

[doctorolds]

So if you "only desire the best results" then you should definitely do this. I guess the alternative would be "desire to get poor results" in which case you should continue to avoid DeOxit.

The intent of my post was to get further information on the use of DeOxit in addition to performing the deep cleaning method. If you refer to posts 20, 21, & 27 you will notice that DeOxit is not used or recommended.

I have not personally used DeOxit, but I do read mostly good things about its ability to clean switches and pots. From your posts I see that you perform the deep cleaning and then use DeOxit as the final step, in addition to problem areas.

Thank you for your comments! I do not know everything and am simply trying to learn a little more from others that have a bit more experience than I do.

 

[grinny]

Well, I guess I should put my results here too...

Few days ago, I saved a little Pioneer SA-408, and this is how it looked like;

http://imgur.com/a/0qtSN

There was barely some noise can be heard through headphones, and only hissing and cracking through my soundcard.

I thought "Hey it's not that bad" and started following Machineghost's instructions...

And it became into this;

http://imgur.com/jO4NR

Getting very clear sound, and enjoying music, thanks to Machineghost!

Tho there're some things bugging my mind. For example, maybe you have noticed, the transformer is changed with some domestic one;

http://imgur.com/pxOJl

I can't find any info about the original transformer, so I'm not sure if this one is compatible with the amp. (I can play music with it somehow...) Would it be a problem if I keep using the same transformer?

And now I realized that the left speaker lost almost all of it's volume. What makes this happen? When I play with the volume pot it sometimes comes alive and goes back again, with some hissing and cracking.

Thanks for your help people, even this is a victory for my book!

 

[westend]

The intent of my post was to get further information on the use of DeOxit in addition to performing the deep cleaning method. If you refer to posts 20, 21, & 27 you will notice that DeOxit is not used or recommended.

I have not personally used DeOxit, but I do read mostly good things about its ability to clean switches and pots. From your posts I see that you perform the deep cleaning and then use DeOxit as the final step, in addition to problem areas.

Thank you for your comments! I do not know everything and am simply trying to learn a little more from others that have a bit more experience than I do.

Some of the references for not using Deoxit in the posts you listed is about putting the cleaner on boards or other parts. You don't want to use Deoxit on those surfaces. Just cleaning the inside surfaces may be enough to also sluice out debris from the controls and switch surfaces but will probably do nothing to clean the oxidation off the inside of pots and switches. This is the intended purpose of the Caig chemicals, to remove oxidation from wipers and contacts.

 

[vc455]

Great thread. My question is about the DeoxIT. Which formula(s) are being used? I went to their web site and was surprised at the number of products they make.

 

[Gregory]

Great thread. My question is about the DeoxIT. Which formula(s) are being used? I went to their web site and was surprised at the number of products they make.

Deoxit 100% and Deoxit 5% (~95% solvent) in spray cans, Deoxit 100% (red) in a small brush bottle (which tips over and spills easily) and the Green FaderLube in a needle-top dispenser. I don't really know what that stuff is for. :scratch2:

There's a needle oiler in the front right corner that I use on pot shafts, but only ONE drop, maybe two!

That's what we call "juicing up your gear."


-Gregory

 

[vc455]

Thanks for the info.

 

[dieterboels]

New here

Hello everyone,

I'm new to this webstie (you can find me at the introduction page).

I'd like to clean a few old amp's I recovered (I have a technics year '80, a sansui year '75, and an ITT also somewhere from the '70s I think). I also recovered other gear('50 tube radio for example :yes, but will watch them after have cleaned the amps.

I've found a few websites giving instructions on cleaning vintage amps, but how strict do I need to be for cleaning the amps?
Why is this 'Deep cleaning' more usefull then a cleaning explained in following thread: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005

I also found next website http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Clean-The-Controls-On-Your-Amplifier/#, with a totally different approach, can anyone tell me what the advantages are and disadvantages of different methodes?

I have no experience with working on amplifiers, only changed fuses now and then, but I'm studying electrical engineering, so I have experience with soldering, testing PCB's, I know little about amp-circuits, I also know (most of) the terminology.

Fact is that I'd like to make this a part of my musical hobby(very attracted by vintage gear as it is the hype nowadays). I'd like to start by cleaning these amps, but maybe other simpeler things are better to start with, anyone suggestions for a starter? I'm also a musicplayer, suggestions conerning that are always welcome.

I'd like not to damage any of my gear I have now.

Thanks in advance for al suggestions and opinions.

Greetings
Dieter

 

[Marty Socal]

A cleaner that I found works very well, especially if you are dealing with Tobacco smoke residue or oil/grease residue is the "Purple Power" or "Super Clean" type cleaners you find at the local Auto Parts store. These cleaners seem to work better on oil/grease residue than the "Green" type cleaners, and are safer than the flammable petroleum cleaners at least in my experience.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N0440_-1_3046&pt=N0440&ppt=C0090

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N0440_-1_3046&pt=N0440&ppt=C0090

I have been using it in the shop for years, but read about using it for cleaning an old radio chassis here:
http://www.californiahistoricalradio.com/2012/03/secret-weapon-chassis-cleaning/

Using it full strength may strip any painted on numbers, etc., so dilute it to 25% cleaner, 75% water for delicate/painted surfaces. 50% works very well in most instances if 25% isn't cleaning well enough. 100% works for the worst crud, if you are not worried about stripping off the lettering, etc.

Note: Be sure to wear latex or nitrile gloves if you have sensitive skin, as this cleaner will remove all the oils from your skin.