Need a bit of help deoxing volume control on my Pioneer SX1050

Anubis

Super Member
Ok, my Pioneer SX-1050 needs a deoxit treament on the volume knob and she will be a right as rain. (She's in extremely good condition otherwise).
The problem is I can't seem to find my way to access the volume control. I've taken the case off and the bottom off and still can't see access.
Do I need to take the face off? If so, how do I get the knobs off, they seem to be DIY unfreindly. There are two holes on the side of the volume knob, am I correct in suspecting set screws? If so, are they phillips or flat-head?
I had no trouble taking apart my other receivers, but this one has me scratching my head just to do a deoxit treatment on one stinkin knob.
Please advise.
Thank you.
 
I'm going to venture a guess the 2 screws on the volume knob are 1.5mm allen set screws.

...R1
 
I'm going to venture a guess the 2 screws on the volume knob are 1.5mm allen set screws.

...R1

Hmm, well if the knob needs to be removed for the deoxing I may have that size allen screw fortunately. If not, I'll just go get one 1.5mm or a set of metric allens. Who knows, might be useful on other things.
Geez, the things we do for this hobby. *chuckle*:D
 
I'm pretty sure the SX-1050 may have one of the enclosed volume controls like in the the SPEC 1. If so it may be close to a losing battle even if you get to the control.

Maybe others with more knowledge of Pioneer gear may chime in here soon. The referral by tsd71explains it.

You can also have a look at this thread by mattsd regarding the restoration of his SX-1250. Scroll down to the pic of the flat amp board and you'll see the enclosed volume control.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=420950



...R1
 
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You need to remove the pot to clean it properly, it is an enclosed pot.
I've done this several times. front panel needs to be removed etc. You just can't squirt cleaner in by the shaft. It needs to be unsoldered and removed and very carefully taken apart. Back comes off but front piece only seperates about 1/16 " ... here's some pics I have more. This needs to be done very carefully. Not sure if you removed the front panel from one of these but it's a task. Then you have to drop the board that the vol pot is attached to.
Some people claim to have drilled holes etc. Not me. Use Fader Lube or the newer gold whatever...
deoxit dries out the carbon film, if u use it use the lube after it dries.

vol2.jpg

vol3.jpg

vol4.jpg
 
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You need to remove the pot to clean it properly, it is an enclosed pot.
I've done this several times. front panel needs to be removed etc. You just can't squirt cleaner in by the shaft. It needs to be unsoldered and removed and very carefully taken apart. Back comes off but front piece only seperates about 1/16 " ... here's some pics I have more. This needs to be done very carefully. Not sure if you removed the front panel from one of these but it's a task. Then you have to drop the board that the vol pot is attached to.
Some people claim to have drilled holes etc. Not me. Use Fader Lube or the newer gold whatever...
deoxit dries out the carbon film, if u use it use the lube after it dries.

If that's the case, forget it. I'm not anywhere near that skill level and I"ll end up destroying it for sure. I'll just live with the bit of scratchiness in the volume knob. Once it's set it's fine. I'd rather pay my tech $40 to do it or something, I don't want to harm it.
 
I have an extra vol. pot... but you still have to remove the old one ...

If it gets too bad, I'm sure we can help you thru it ..

Cheers

John M
 
It isn't terribly hard to get the board out of the SX-1050 The face plate needs to come off, then there are a few small screws on the front frame that hold it in. If you don't have the Service Manual, there are some free downloads available.
http://www.hifiengine.com/manuals/pioneer/sx-1050.shtml

Here's what the board the switch is on looks like:
IMG_4844.jpg


I wasn't able to get the Deoxit into the volume control on mine, either, but I'm fortunate that it seems to be OK. Next time I have it apart, i will try the through the sticker method, or go for the drilled hole in the case.
 
It isn't terribly hard to get the board out of the SX-1050 The face plate needs to come off, then there are a few small screws on the front frame that hold it in. If you don't have the Service Manual, there are some free downloads available.
http://www.hifiengine.com/manuals/pioneer/sx-1050.shtml

Here's what the board the switch is on looks like:
IMG_4844.jpg


I wasn't able to get the Deoxit into the volume control on mine, either, but I'm fortunate that it seems to be OK. Next time I have it apart, i will try the through the sticker method, or go for the drilled hole in the case.

Hi Marty, thank you. Getting the faceplate off is part of the challenge. I just need to figure out set screws I think. I've taken many a faceplate off, but this 1050 is a bit challenging.
 
I would simply peel the sticker or carefully poke a hole through it and deoxit and treat with lube. Then cover the hole back up. Any reason why it shouldnt be done that way?

BTW Sicman, The SX990 is still alive and sounding beautiful! Thanks again!
 
I would simply peel the sticker or carefully poke a hole through it and deoxit and treat with lube. Then cover the hole back up. Any reason why it shouldnt be done that way?

BTW Sicman, The SX990 is still alive and sounding beautiful! Thanks again!

I am going to try that...I think. Provided I don't have to tear everything apart and risk major damage trying to do a simple thing.
 
If it is like other Alps pots I have dealt with, there is no way to poke a hole anywhere. The trick I used was to loosen, NOT REMOVE, the four screws without unsoldering from the board. This act of loosening alolows access to the inside through cracks between the layers. I flushed the inside with non aqueous isopropyl alcohol and let it dry for a while. I then followed with 100% Deoxit and let it dry for 5 minutes. After that I followed with faderlube. he pot was clean and has stayed clean since I sealed it back up with the screws.

This is a doable project. Disassembling that pot though the best method is a bit scary and you must be on your game to do it right. Finding replacements can be a real pain.
 
If it is like other Alps pots I have dealt with, there is no way to poke a hole anywhere. The trick I used was to loosen, NOT REMOVE, the four screws without unsoldering from the board. This act of loosening alolows access to the inside through cracks between the layers. I flushed the inside with non aqueous isopropyl alcohol and let it dry for a while. I then followed with 100% Deoxit and let it dry for 5 minutes. After that I followed with faderlube. he pot was clean and has stayed clean since I sealed it back up with the screws.

This is a doable project. Disassembling that pot though the best method is a bit scary and you must be on your game to do it right. Finding replacements can be a real pain.

No thank you. Too risky. I'll look around at it when I get the chance and may just have to live with it.
 
What a PITA...

I have a Pioneer SX-3800 I found near the dumpster at work. The balance and volume controls were so noisy and scratchy sounding. I could not believe the amount of labor required to gain access to those pots. I ended up drilling holes in the pots and the front panel of the receiver in order to be able to squirt the cleaner in. Definitely worth it when its done and you listen to your favorite music through clean pots.
This receiver was the first one that I opened up to attempt to make a repair. I guess I did it because the unit came to me free. Now it sounds great and is in my son's room.
 
I have an SU-8600 that has a similar segmented volume pot.
I removed the board from the faceplate but did not desolder
or disassemble from the board.
I just separated the segments along the top.

Removed volume pot from faceplate.
Place paper towel under pot to catch nuts in case
they drop when removing screw bolts.
watermark.php

Used jeweler's screw driver to separate segment then insert slightly larger screw driver to twist and separate.
There may be a partition between segments as you see in pic.
Each segment has contacts, see here for disassembled view.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=410730&page=2

Also at the end you will see the white disc that also needs to be sprayed. Opening just large enough to spray with straw.
watermark.php

I placed volume knob on shaft to provide better torque when turning knob during twisting and cleaning.
watermark.php
 
Man! Thanks for all the info and loads of pics, but I know I'll break it if I can't get at it easy and just look for the hole in the paper. It's a SX-1050, I should not be messing with it. If it was a BOTL or a BPC I would not care and I'd experiment, but not with an SX-1050 in near 9.5/10 condition.
 
Man! Thanks for all the info and loads of pics, but I know I'll break it if I can't get at it easy and just look for the hole in the paper. It's a SX-1050, I should not be messing with it. If it was a BOTL or a BPC I would not care and I'd experiment, but not with an SX-1050 in near 9.5/10 condition.

If it makes you feel better you're not alone. I have a pesky scratching sound on my SPEC 1 right about 9:00 on the dial. I want so badly to deoxit it but I just know I'd screw it up somehow.:nono:

If I were to make an attempt I think I'd try what terra1 did. Like your SX-1050 my SPEC combo is in wonderful condition and the SPEC 4 has had the EW treatment along with a main filter cap just this week by myself and that was nerve wracking enough. So all in all I'm in pretty good shape for now.......if it weren't for that pesky scratch:sigh:

The SPEC 4 responded nicely to the new filter caps BTW.:music:

Regards,
R1
 
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