au-505 rectifier substitute

petehall347

the brandy coffee man
rectifier fitted is IR 10dc1 .its dead short so i was thinking 2x 1n4007 to replace it.
any reason why not ?
 
rectifier fitted is IR 10dc1 .its dead short so i was thinking 2x 1n4007 to replace it.
any reason why not ?

I can only find an NTE equivalent data not the original.... 600v, 1A rectifier? :idea:

One 1N4007 should be enough....? (1N4007 = 1000v, 1A)

(I would have thought 10DC1 would be a 100v, 1A rectifier - but I can't find a data sheet)
 
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the 10dc1 that came out has 3 legs . 2 for ac one for dc .so its sorta half wave rectified using a double diode . the 10dc1 is rated at 1amp .i fired it up with 2 1n4001.s and it seems to work ok . i just thought for good measure use the 1n4007,s
 
the 10dc1 that came out has 3 legs . 2 for ac one for dc .so its sorta half wave rectified using a double diode . the 10dc1 is rated at 1amp .i fired it up with 2 1n4001.s and it seems to work ok . i just thought for good measure use the 1n4007,s
According to a Technical Manual from Sansui
10DC-1 (black)
VRM 100
Io 1.8
Center tap +

10DC-1R (red)
Center tap -
 
the 10dc1 that came out has 3 legs . 2 for ac one for dc .so its sorta half wave rectified using a double diode . the 10dc1 is rated at 1amp .i fired it up with 2 1n4001.s and it seems to work ok . i just thought for good measure use the 1n4007,s

Aha, in that case you will need at least a pair of 1N4002's (=100v VRRM) as 1N4001 is only 50v VRRM - as you know a pair of 1N4007 will do just as well. (got there in the end - :))
 
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righto if anyone else reads this in the future the 2 1n4007 diodes work well instead of the original dual diode .
i could of course installed a modern dual diode rectifier but this way is much cheaper .
plus there are holes already in the board for the 2 positive ends of the diodes .
 
Hello so where do you put the the 2 wire newer style diodes as the old ones have 3 legs, sorry not technically inclined, if you can post photos, I would appreciate it. :)
 
The original seems to be an encapsulated pair of rectifier diodes, the device has 3 legs, and often the internal arrangement is printed or moulded into the case.

It should look like this AC ~ ----I>I----I----I<I---- ~ AC - a connection at each end for AC from the transformer, and the centre connection is the 'DC out' connection, 3 connections in all.

Your replacement rectifier diodes look like this ----I>I---- ----I<I---- there should be a band or mark on them to indicate polarity - I have marked where the bands should be with a bold line, like this ' I ' - join the 2 banded ends together - this is the DC out connection, the other ends of the rectifier diodes are the AC inputs, 3 connections in all.

Get yourself a copy of the Service Manual and take a look at the schematic diagram - all of this should then be a lot clearer to you. ;)

Post #5 in this thread shows the 3 connections to the dual rectifier diode, Mauve = AC, Orange = DC (which has been replaced here with a new dual rectifier).
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....ng-distance-of-the-best.826006/#post-11686575

I hope this helps.
 
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