Show us your cables

[Adda]

~pete_mac

I especially like the look of those Aurealis R1 cables, very nice :thmbsp:

 

[Strangeband]

Very cool cables and I really dig what did to that 719. I think I need to mod my 717 after seeing your upgrades.

I use the following cables. You might say that I have a 'thing' for PCOCC! I do like supporting local Aussie designers/manufacturers wherever possible.


Aurealis R1 with Neotech PCOCC and Eichmann copper RCAs:

TDK PCOCC CA-QL601 quad geometry PTFE encased speaker cable with Multi Contact BFAs and silver solder:






Audio Principe/Grave Science Limited Edition SPDIF cable:

DIY mains cables (whether hard-wired to my amps, or in IEC format to suit other gear) with Belden 19364 cable and Martin Kaiser IECs and mains plugs, or Clipsal 1439SHD mains plugs.

 

[Dr. Morbius]

Well, I don't have any interconnects worthy of showing off, but I did just finish up a set of jumper cables and have some others that some may find interesting.

Made with Canare 4S11:
Each conductor is 14 gauge making an aggregate 8 gauge jumper.

Made with silver plated, teflon coated copper (i.e. military grade):
Each conductor is 12 gauge making an aggregate 9 gauge jumper. I got the idea for these from Anti-Cable jumpers. They even have a single twist in them.

Made using Belden 6100UE in wall speaker wire:
Each conductor is 12 gauge making an aggregate 8 gauge jumper.

Here's a group shot. I prefer to use spades on one end and bananas on the other as they offer the most versatility.

Here are the Canare jumpers in action on my Definitive Technology BP2000s.

I also made some new extension cords using Carol 12/3 wire. Great stuff! The ends are from Home Depot.

 

[MWalt]

Nice work, Doc! And a fellow Naptown guy too!

 

[davidro]

Audio Principe/Grave Science Limited Edition SPDIF cable:

i really am curious about this cable.

 

[Adda]

~Dr. Morbius

Nice and uniform look throughout, and it looks professionally made :thmbsp:

 

[pete_mac]

i really am curious about this cable.

It's a very nice cable, but I've also owned the standard Grave Science digital cable and they are great too.

If you contact 'audio principe' via eBay, he is the manufacturer and can provide you with his cables at the wholesale price. Tell him that pete_mac sent you

 

[ehoove]

My many wires

First pic is the Tri amped Magnapan MGIIIa speaker layout:
Ribbons and subs - AudioMagic Excaliber II (Silver plated OFC Copper)
Mid and bass panels Vampire Wire SC-1108 (Silver OFC Copper mix)

Second pic is the Crossover Interconnect Mix:

Ribbons: AudioMagic Excaliber II
Midrange: DH Labs BL1 Silver Sonics
Bass panels:Home Built Canare L-4E6S/Neutrik NYS352BG RCA Connectors
Sub Woofer:Home Built Canare L-4E6S/Neutrik NYS352BG RCA Connectors
Crossover Inputs: Home Built Canare L-4e6s/Neutrik NC3MXX-B Balanced Connectors

Third pic:
Poweramps:
Zu Audio Birth Powercords
And the speaker cables with DIY Balanced cables to Preamp.

And yes switching the interconnects around makes a big difference in sonics. It took me about 3 years to settle on this mix. FWIW

Regards,
Jim

 

[audiozaz]

Nothing fancy here, just some 8awg copper, you know the kind used on car amps to connect the battery. Tech-flex sleeve and decent enough banana plugs, with a wooden separator on each end.

az

 

[TerryO]

Nothing fancy here, just some 8awg copper, you know the kind used on car amps to connect the battery. Tech-flex sleeve and decent enough banana plugs, with a wooden separator on each end.

az

Hi Az,

Those look like very well executed cables.

Best Regards,
Terry

 

[audiozaz]

Hi Az,

Those look like very well executed cables.

Best Regards,
Terry

Thanks! I like this type of wire as it's pretty flexible for its size. The one weakness of these is the banana plug's screw-on connection, has to be tightened once in a while. I should just solder them I guess.

az

 

[Adda]

Thanks! I like this type of wire as it's pretty flexible for its size. The one weakness of these is the banana plug's screw-on connection, has to be tightened once in a while. I should just solder them I guess.

az

Bare wire ends put directly in to a screw mounting doesn't work too well.
The screw can sever the strands in the wires, and as you say, need re-tightening.
Over time, the screw will make it's way all the way through the strands, not a good situation.

To avoid this you can put what I think they call "ferrules" on the wire ends.
This requires a special pair of pliers, but prevents the mounting mechanism, from severing the wires, and will only need re-tightening once.

I'm sure you can get gold plated copper or even silver ferrules too.

 

[Dr. Morbius]

Nice work, Doc! And a fellow Naptown guy too!

~Dr. Morbius

Nice and uniform look throughout, and it looks professionally made :thmbsp:

Thanks guys. I recently finished up a set of Canare 4S11 shotgun cables to go with the 8 gauge jumpers in the earlier post.

As one might imagine, these have some weight to them so I went with spades instead of bananas. I'm pretty sure they would suffice in a self-defense situation if need be.

 

[Jailtime]

These are my Avanti Audio Allegro speaker cables. Well, they're basically jumpers that run from the x-over to the compression driver/woofer cab. Each run is 9 gauge, terminated with Viablue bananas.

 

[Adda]

I decided to try some WBT RCA's, so I got a set of WBT-0114's.
They are rated at 75 Ohms, (donno if that holds up in court) so I use them on my SPDIF cable.

They come in sets of four, so the two others went on my, not yet complete XLR to RCA adapter, for my headphones.
It is made using wires from a Mogami W3080 110 Ohm AES/EBU cable, it has nice thick insulation on the wires, perfect for light weight wirebraids.

Here are my K240DF's, they are also cabled with braided W3080 wires, and Neutrik XLR (four pin, silver plated).

So why not put RCA's right on to the DF cable?
I have several reasons, it is all about cable management.
I plug the DF's in to my 18k, the XLR connectors make it easier to plug and unplug them, and XLR's don't short the preamp outputs when unplugged, like TRS's do or disconnect the shield before the conductor like RCA's.
Also, to avoid pulling on the RCA connectors, I have the XLR's wedged between the 18k and the table, so they take the stress, Neutrik XLR's can take quite a beating if they have to, and are cheap.
I use the DF's with both mini-jack and RCA, so I have to make an adapter either way, I chose to use the connector that works best for the purpose.
With four pins, they are ready for both single ended and balanced use.

 

[Poultrygeist]

Walmart's best speaker cables

 

[MWalt]

Walmart's best speaker cables

Poultry, why didn't you use the green wire with those white lightnings? I always combine the green with the white on mine. Also, love the nakamichi RCA plugs.

 

[Poultrygeist]

Poultry, why didn't you use the green wire with those white lightnings? I always combine the green with the white on mine. Also, love the nakamichi RCA plugs.

The white wire used alone seems less colored. I combine the green wire when I want a more organic presentation. :yes:

 

[MWalt]

The white wire used alone seems less colored. I combine the green wire when I want a more organic presentation. :yes:

Ahh, got it! I may have to try that one out myself :thmbsp:

 

[davidro]

I've acquired what pete_mac's got above - Audio Principe/Grave Science Limited Edition SPDIF cable:

[/QUOTE]

Might start a thread on this kool-aid soon...