C32 Ribbon Cables?

The ribbon cables carry no audio, just ps and switching voltages. The twisted 6and8 conductor cable with molex connection carry the audio and are known to cause audio issues due to cold solder joints at the pins.

The delamination can look ugly.......but does not affect the solid core wire it holds in place.

After chasing cold solder issues for the last twenty years the cosmetic ribbon "issue" just does not rise to a major problem.

These statements appear to be contradictory. First one says `ribbons carry only PS and switching,´ then `twisted cable carry audio and have known cold solder issues.´ The last statement describes `chasing cold solder joints´ then says to leave delaminated ribbons alone? I can't agree on leaving ugly cable in place because of possible cold solder joints. Can you clarify? What is the point?

The ribbon in my 2205 started to break apart from disconnected/reconnected it several times. If left alone, it would have been fine.


-Gregory
 
Would anyone know the pitch of the flat ribbon cable used in the C32. So much discussion about bad cables, it can't be that hard to replace if you can find the correct pitch? 2.54 mm, 2.00 mm ? I doubt it is 1.00 mm as this is small for that era. Certainly the pro Mac repair folks are getting these from a current source. A 10 pin can be snipped to a 6 pin etc. Is it that big if a deal if you are good at soldering and repairing?

If you have dial calipers or a precision ruler.. measure across ribbon from 'centers of end conductors,' then divide by the number of spaces in between. That will increase your measurement accuracy. If you are good at working with cable and soldering.. it might even be fun. Many of the Techs won't reveal their secrets in the open forum, but if you send a PM.. that might get an answer.


-Gregory
 
Are the ribbon cables in the C32 a big problem? Is that what keeps these from being desirable or did Mac use ribbon cables in all the components from this vintage? I found one where the guy had them all replaced with wire but wants $875 for it! Out of my price range but I think i'm wanting a pre with the 5 band EQ and variable loudness. bob

Here's a old post about C32 ribbon cables: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189187

This is what a 2205 front panel ribbon looks like from being handled. Notice how it was damaged from 'gripping' on each side, and 'rocking' pins out of the socket with a width-wise motion.. McIntosh_servicing_015.jpg The C32 ribbons in link posted above are in much worse condition. Do you see a lot of tape there? I'd not advise using 'tape' on any product that's intended to last. Tape adhesive messes up everything it touches!


-Gregory
 
Here's a old post about C32 ribbon cables: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189187

This is what a 2205 front panel ribbon looks like from being handled. Notice how it was damaged from 'gripping' on each side, and 'rocking' pins out of the socket with a width-wise motion.. McIntosh_servicing_015.jpg The C32 ribbons in link posted above are in much worse condition. Do you see a lot of tape there? I'd not advise using 'tape' on any product that's intended to last. Tape adhesive messes up everything it touches!


-Gregory

Oh yeah, I never use tape. The adhesive either dries out and turns to powder, or it turns to goo and is impossible to get off....
terrible stuff....
 
C32 Flat Flexible Cable - Kit

I am meeting on the 29th with a very well know cable/ribbon manufacturer to see how economical a "FFC Kit" would be feasible. Thus the kit would have brand new replacement FFC ribbons to replace those found in the C32. There is an odd ball 13 conductor FFC that may be the problem as I don't want to have a 14 or 16 FFC and have the end user cut off the ends to get the 13 conductor needed. I will keep you guys posted. I am looking at getting the Kit under $100.00 and it would be a simple end user project as long as folks are handy with opening a C32 and doing a little delicate ribbon swapping. No soldering will be needed. Wish me luck.
 
I am meeting on the 29th with a very well know cable/ribbon manufacturer to see how economical a "FFC Kit" would be feasible. Thus the kit would have brand new replacement FFC ribbons to replace those found in the C32. There is an odd ball 13 conductor FFC that may be the problem as I don't want to have a 14 or 16 FFC and have the end user cut off the ends to get the 13 conductor needed. I will keep you guys posted. I am looking at getting the Kit under $100.00 and it would be a simple end user project as long as folks are handy with opening a C32 and doing a little delicate ribbon swapping. No soldering will be needed. Wish me luck.

Yeah.. hope you can work it out. I see the C32 as an updaters/restorers dream. It would be quite an enjoyable project!

Notice all the caps and power resistors that could be replaced.


Also seeing metal cap-cans in the right rear? again a challenging and possible rewarding endeavor.

Wasn't the C32 a 'period match' for the MC2205 ?


In the end you'd have a nice McIntosh preamp!


-Gregory
 
Would love a cable kit for the C32, have one set aside that needs a full set of cables, seems the owner tried to disassemble it for cleaning and totaled most of the cables. This would be something good to keep several of on hand.
 
Would love a cable kit for the C32, have one set aside that needs a full set of cables, seems the owner tried to disassemble it for cleaning and totaled most of the cables. This would be something good to keep several of on hand.

That's what does the most damage I reckon.. handling old and dried-out ribbon cables. The LAMP board ribbon in the 2205 was fine, but I disconnected and reconnected it several times and it started to deteriorate. Suppose if one was clever and used good workmanship, the cables could be replaces with single wire, soldered PCB pins and uninsulated sockets, and wires bundled in a sheath. I'm thinking connector 'crimp type' pins/sockets without the connector body.

For example: if you stuck a bunch of pins in a socket housing.. they'd all be held in a line so as to insert in the PCB and solder them all straight and parallel. Then push-on single uninsulated 'sockets' soldered to each wire. Hmm? :scratch2: Thing is.. you wouldn't want to charge the customer for all that painstaking labor.


-Gregory
 
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FCC Ribbon Cables

We are getting closer to getting a C32 FFC (Flexible Flat Cable) kit where all the FFC cables can be replaced. We had a sample tested for the MC2205 Lamp Ribbon Cable that attaches to the driver board. It actually was an excellent retrofit.

Hopefully the C32 FFC ribbon kit will be available sometime late Summer.
 

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Hofvox,
Is this Lamp Ribbon cable for MC2205 available at the moment (and where)?
If not, are there any plans for it?
Thank you.
 
We are getting closer to getting a C32 FFC (Flexible Flat Cable) kit where all the FFC cables can be replaced. We had a sample tested for the MC2205 Lamp Ribbon Cable that attaches to the driver board. It actually was an excellent retrofit.

Hopefully the C32 FFC ribbon kit will be available sometime late Summer.

Very good! what is that wire bundle or pigtail in the photo? A quick disconnect for the lamp board?


-Gregory
 
I just picked up a very nice C32 that works fine, but I'd be interested in the FFC kit nonetheless. The ribbon cables in my C32 look terrible, but the units works as it should so I'm not going to mess with them.

Please keep us updated.

-Matt
 
Oh man. Those ribbons remind me of the ones in the B&O Beomaster 8000. *Always* to be treated with care when taking that monster apart. Especially since they carried tuner and computer signals in that early digital tuned machine.
 
The 8000 is much, much,worse.....have one spread eagle all over one of my benches right now....
 
The 8000 is much, much,worse.....have one spread eagle all over one of my benches right now....

It's extremely fragile. I would love to own one again but *only* after it had been completely gone through by someone who knew what they were doing. It was a *perfect* harmonious match with my JBL XPL140 speakers.

My BeoCenter 9500 has a lot of ribbon cables in it also, but they seem to be not as fragile, at least not yet.
 
Been wanting to ask this question, or find if it's already been asked... if it has, my apologies for missing it. This thread, at least the way it started out, seems to be as good a place as any to ask my question.

Assume features (remote, compandor, EQ vs. bass/treble, etc.) are not that important, and great sound is, and really is the only concern in buying an older McIntosh preamp.

How much difference will I hear with my very average ears between say, a C-26 and any of the newer, more "desirable" models, IF both have been sent to Audio Classics or Terry Dewick for them to work their magic? Can they make a C-26 sound as good as a newer, more expensive used preamp?

The real question I'm wondering about is, if I'm willing to spend the money with AC or TD, do I need to spend maybe twice as much on the initial purchase of the preamp, assuming those being considered are all in reasonably good condition, and how it sounds is really all that's important to me?

Hope that makes sense to somebody.

If it matters, I have a pair of MC-30s, a pair of MC-50s, and one MC-250 to pair up with some to-be-determined preamp.
 
Been wanting to ask this question, or find if it's already been asked... if it has, my apologies for missing it. This thread, at least the way it started out, seems to be as good a place as any to ask my question.

Assume features (remote, compandor, EQ vs. bass/treble, etc.) are not that important, and great sound is, and really is the only concern in buying an older McIntosh preamp.

How much difference will I hear with my very average ears between say, a C-26 and any of the newer, more "desirable" models, IF both have been sent to Audio Classics or Terry Dewick for them to work their magic? Can they make a C-26 sound as good as a newer, more expensive used preamp?

The real question I'm wondering about is, if I'm willing to spend the money with AC or TD, do I need to spend maybe twice as much on the initial purchase of the preamp, assuming those being considered are all in reasonably good condition, and how it sounds is really all that's important to me?

Hope that makes sense to somebody.

If it matters, I have a pair of MC-30s, a pair of MC-50s, and one MC-250 to pair up with some to-be-determined preamp.

Your post is not really relevant to C32 Ribbon cables, could have easily just started your own thread, you might get more responses.

To answer you question though, no, a refurbished/reconditioned C26 will not have the performance of a later model pre-amp, the design just simply isn't there.

However because audio is subjective, there are those who may prefer a C26 over something later.....thats just a matter of personal preference.
 
My apologies, still a little new here. I think you've answered my question, so I won't post it anywhere else.
 
FCC Labeled.JPG
Above Photo of the NEW FFCs

4 and 5 Pinned Ribbons.jpg
Above Photo with yellow circles of the Solder to Insert Header 4 and 5 pin cable. #9,#10,#11 usually toast

Delaminated 5 Pin  ribbon.jpg
Above photo of #9 solder to insert header (one end is solder into one board the other end inserts into a header)

PS: I can see where the C30 may be the McIntosh Preamp of choice after all.

Well,
This has been a Kind of labor of Love? We are going through a few more prototypes of the FFC cables for the McIntosh C32 preamp. We have had quotes from China and currently I have decided to have these made here in the USA. Its nice to talk with the actual factory who can make modifications while on the phone. Here is a photo of our numbering system for the FFC. THIS INSTALL IS NOT FOR THE NOVICE! I am saying that because you do have to remove boards if you are going to replace FFCs. Removing the Headphone Amplifier board which is absent in the above photos really makes the install go faster.

"The LED Light Strip PC Board" requires you to remove the "Listen Mode Selector PC Board" and the "Tone Frequency Control Board" PC Board. The "LED Light Strip PC Board" has an extended Hex Nut and you have to use Hemostats or a very fine needle nose pliers to keep them from rotating while you unscrew from the front Foam Strip. I am preparing a Cheat Sheet but it proves to be almost a book so I may ditch the whole Cheat Sheet concept and just do You Tube videos for each step.

This is my 3rd carcass C32 donor unit that not only had the FFCs delaminate but the cable of Solder to Straight Pin Header also have serious issues (Ribbons 9-13 circled in Yellow). To keep from soldering, I think the easy fix for these 4 and 5 pin Solder to Straight pin is to remove the laminate (they almost fall off) and insert a shrink tube or empty wire sleeve, clean the ends and reinsert. I am trying to keep the cost down while keeping the caliber and quality control to the highest level, thus the USA vendor. More later.
 
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