Sansui 881 - Recapping (I'm going to do it!)

The CRC product should be fine just make sure it is plastic safe as some are not; notice the "most plastics" line. I use a two part contact cleaner / lubricant from CRC when something is really dirty and needs a good soaking.

I am currently refurbishing a 881 as well and used Nichicon KL series to replace the orange low noise caps. I believe the originals are Elna. Panasonics are very high grade as well so don't worry there.

I have a very low hum out of the left channel only. I think a grounding issue as well since it does not get louder with volume. XX1 series are famous for this hum.

If you have a guitar center near you deoxit is a bit less $$ from them. They also have faderlube which does wonders on control pots after cleaned to keep static away.

This is a great little receiver, can't wait to hear it really sing.
 
Here is the Digikey list with the Capacitor descriptions, part numbers, and number of units to re-cap your 881 in order of decreasing voltage and uF.

Enjoy! (click for big)

 
I would replace that braid wire on the main filter caps. Mine had leaked electrolyte on it and looked compromised. Replaced the caps and those wires and NO HUM. AT ALL.
 
Dammit! I used contact cleaner the other day to get the left channel of my 881 going again, and today I turn it on and it's muted and distorted. What the hell?

This was the stuff that I was using:

FcUc6.jpg


From the can. . .

Should I just man up and drop $30 (shipping included) and get a can of Deoxit? Or does anyone think this might be another issue?

It doesn't say it removes oxidisation from contacts - this is the effect you need - what you have there seems to be basically a de-greaser product - not a full-on switch cleaner like DeOxit.
 
Regarding this capacitor list, I see4 100uF 6.3V electrolytics. There are 2 non-polar 100uF 6.3V electrolytics on the F-2436 Driver board. Does this mean that you are replacing the non-polar lyrics with polarized ones??? Thanks so much.
 
You are very safe with Panasonic and Nichicon. For low leak, I've always used Nichicon KL's.

Thanks soundphile. So when using polarized electrolytics as a substitute for bi-polar, does it matter how they are oriented? + or - to any particular side?
 
Thanks soundphile. So when using polarized electrolytics as a substitute for bi-polar, does it matter how they are oriented? + or - to any particular side?
There is a reason a bipolar capacitor was used, you cannot just replace with a polarized. I really like Nichicon ES bipolar caps to replace them. Here is a recapped 881 amp section I did recently. I used Panasonic FC, Panasonic ECQ stacked film for the 1uf, and Nichicon ES for the bipolars
9b2c9c1673e65fd6fa5a464aefaae075.jpg
 
There is a reason a bipolar capacitor was used, you cannot just replace with a polarized. I really like Nichicon ES bipolar caps to replace them. Here is a recapped 881 amp section I did recently. I used Panasonic FC, Panasonic ECQ stacked film for the 1uf, and Nichicon ES for the bipolars
9b2c9c1673e65fd6fa5a464aefaae075.jpg

I like the idea of film for C01, C02. Those are 0,47uF right? Did you swap electrolytic for film anywhere else?
 
Yes, some of the caps on the preamp I replaced with Panasonic stacked film as well.
 
PM me your serial number.. I want to look at the Date of your build
there amps were made for 3 years 75 & 76 then again in 84
I think YOURS is an 84
 
How do you know which electrolytics can be swapped with film? I'm assuming you'd only want to do this for components in the audio signal path as opposed to power.

There is a driver board, EQ board and a Tone board. Could film be used on any of these boards?

Thanks for the info!
 
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Lots of useful recap rules o thumb in the Pioneer forum. Consider replacing .1uf to 1.0uf with stacked film. With higher values, you'll hit physical size and expense limitations.
 
Lots of useful recap rules o thumb in the Pioneer forum. Consider replacing .1uf to 1.0uf with stacked film. With higher values, you'll hit physical size and expense limitations.

I'm curious as to of why you would you stray from the component values of the original design....at least values like resistance, capacitance. I suppose it makes sense that you can up the voltage ratings, but why would you want to replace a 0.1uF with a 1uF??

Thanks!
 
On the 881 are the following circuit boards which contain electrolytic caps:

F-1507 Tuner Board
F-2433 Equalizer Board
F-2434 Tone Control Board
F-2436 Driver Circuit Board
F-2437 Power Supply Board

Would the only boards that would benefit from carbon/film substitution for the original electrolytics be the EQ, Tone and Driver Board?
 
No, I wouldn't change value. Just saying that film are sonically better than e-caps. I'd like to use films for all caps in the signal path. But you can only do that for a limited range of values.
 
When replacing the 10KuF C703 and C704 power filter caps is there a proper way to instell thrm regarding polarity. The original caps arent clearly marked with (-) or (+) terminals
 
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