ManhattanUp
Active Member
I've also tracked down two loaners:
Tektronix 2445A
Tektronix TDS1012
Would one be preferable to the other?
Tektronix 2445A
Tektronix TDS1012
Would one be preferable to the other?
Moving ahead, here's the parts list for the rebuild of both channels...though I will probably fix the left one first and then evaluate the situation:
Pre-Drivers (Power Output PCB)
#132-148 x 2, Mouser #610-CEN-U57
#132-149 x 2, Mouser #610-CEN-U07
Note: These are Centronics U57 and U07, as per other threads on the topic. Dunno if there's yet a better replacement.
Your amp has 35 to 40 volt rails , you could get by with MPSU-55 and MPSU-05 devices which are way more cheaper and still easy to find. < and they look original in all aspects > I have them and MPSU-56 and MPSU-06 all NOS gold leads and all I believe these were a much closer part then the CEN parts which are all that most folks can find from Central Semi nowadays.
Thanks for the recommendation.
The only source I can find for the MPSU parts are on eBay where everyone claims to be selling NOS (and they all seem to be from New Jersey for some reason). The parts run anywhere from $6 to $9 a piece. Since I already have two new pairs of the CEN parts (bought for another project) I will probably just go with them. And they were only $2.87 each.
I am curious if you think the rectifier I selected is OK. The only references I found for replacing the original Mc part (#070-031) were from a few years back and these are now themselves obsolete.
Does that include the color of new electrolytics? That would leave MUSE bipolars out.you know for the folks that gotta have it looking like 1974 again at all costs LOL.
Does that include the color of new electrolytics? That would leave MUSE bipolars out.
Does that include the color of new electrolytics? That would leave MUSE bipolars out.
Remember - the 2125 has power guard while the 2105 does not. Have you compared the two with the power guard "out" on the 2125?
I read somewhere (possibly the McIntosh "For the Love of Music" book) that the reason that this 2120/2125/2200/2205 had a power guard switch to disable it was that the 2105 generally sounded "louder" when compared to the 2125 with power guard engaged. I have a 2100 and a 2120 powering very similar speakers (AR-3a's on the 2120 and AR 10pi's on the 2100). The 2100 always sounds "louder" although I have not used a db meter to measure. On the bench, the 2100 puts out more power than my 2120 when power guard is active. If I turn the power guard off, they measure pretty close in terms of power.