Black on glass experiments?

You are making it way to complicated.

Flick off the loose paint. Make sure glass is clean.

Trowel on thick the Rustoleum, yes overlapping the old.

Not happy.....buy a replacement from Mac parts and be done.
 
Sorry I edited my last reply not realizing it would not be put in proper cue for a response.
One remaining question: Now question on screening or squaring off the area to be painted from the area with good paint. Most describe a screening off technique with tape to square off the area to be painted but there are posts indicating putting tape on the inside black paint will cause that paint to come off when the tape is pulled off. How is this technique accomplished?

William, maybe try posting a pic of the glass you're trying to repair. And no, you don't want to put tape over existing black ink or it will be pulled off.

If you are trying to replicate a corner section for the tuner dial of an MR78 - that is going to be damn hard to do to factory standard. If that's the case, it might be worth considering replacement glass as c_dk suggested. It's ~ $100 for a MR78 IIRC from A/C.

HTH
 
Had no idea you could get glass that cheap but my repair should be very easy now I have gotten all the details. No masking necessary (great), no cut outs (great) just flick and glob on new paint (great) screw up and send to A/C (great)
 
Apparently William13 is dissatisfied with the advice proffered and is using sarcasm to express his displeasure.

At least that is how I interpret the statement in Post #23.
 
William13 happens to be very satisfied. I depend heavily on the expertise of the others on this site and they have my full respect. I do not know how you read sarcasm into my post but its not there. It was actual glee because I got all my answers. They were great including your initial ones. Best to give benefit of doubt Lets move on.

Bill
 
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Glad to hear it Bill. Sometimes the written word gets lost in translation; my apologies if I misconstrued your intent.

Good luck with the repairs. I hope it turns out well.

Eric
 
Glad to hear it Bill. Sometimes the written word gets lost in translation; my apologies if I misconstrued your intent.

Good luck with the repairs. I hope it turns out well.

Eric

Thanks Eric: Glad to be back on the same page. I have lots of friends on this site and I would not like to offend them intentionally or unintentionally. I will post the project when done.
Bill
 
Testors went out of the model paint business a few years ago, if that helps your decision...

Larry
 
Yep. The Testors model paint was eliminated and they have reformulated colors in the Model Master line. However, i'm not sure those have been tested as they compare to the original Testors color. You are probably safer sticking to Terry and Chris's suggestion of using Rustoleum.
 
Being that these are 30+ year old units and new gass can in most circumstances be purchased the time vs. cost equation must be considered.....

However, in cases where new glass is back ordered or the loose paint is minimal excessive time spent might be worth it.

In that vein I had my local Home Depot analyze the black from Rustoleum when the can I had was not "black" enough......for a particular MC2155. It was as black as they could imagine making it.

I ended up using a BMW black touch up paint a friend had from his BMW days.

I did find, using a broken peice of face plate as a clear palette, that I could adjust the blackness of the Rustoleum by not stirring, pouring off some of the "top of the can" then stirring.

No science or specifics, as always your results can vary, but experimentation is up to you to satisfy your own personal compulsions.
 
Apparently helps to feather the edges of the area you're planning to patch. This one is hardly noticeable if you squint a bit ...

mc2205-meters-painted.jpg


... and don't know enough about the MC2205 to see that "STEREO POWER" is missing in the middle of the label. <G>

PS - I've since replaced the gels to get rid of the brown spots typical of heat damage from the bulbs.

mc2205.JPG


Another common candidate for patching is the headphone jack. I cut the paint cleanly for about a quarter inch around the hole in the glass, feathered it, masked it, and painted it with good results.
 
FWIW. When I recapped my 2205 five years ago, I tried with excellent success using what is labeled on the cap" licorice" nail lacquer(ESSIE brand,) to address some area`s of the face glass..
The included cap brush was very handy with controllable application, since woman, or some men use it to do their nails.
And being lacquer, it`s drying time is very quick, compared to enamel, and it didn`t seem to react with the existing still good glass paint when feathered over it..

Just a thought folks, from my experience.

Kind, regards, OKB
 
I realize this is an old thread, but I haven't found much else on the topic of repairing peeled paint on a McIntosh dial glass. On my C22 preamplifier, the inner dial glass is perfect, but the outer glass has significant paint flaking/peeling. I attached a photo that shows the worst area, where big pieces of paint have lifted off the glass. If I flick these pieces loose, they will leave holes in the black paint, which must be repainted.

From the previous discussions, it sounds like people are basically overpainting freehand, using a nail lacquer brush or even a screwdriver blade (?) to push black paint around.

If I try to freehand this job, I suspect the painted edges will look sloppy, not ruler-straight. What have people done to avoid this? Mask the edges with tape? Some other trick?

I'm aware that you can buy a repro C22 dial glass (for $100+). That's a last resort, in my book. I hate throwing things away if they can be salvaged with a reasonable effort.

Thanks for any advice.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html
 

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I haven't tried (always have been able to buy new ones) but I'd create a mask, and pull the masking tape while the paint is still wet so that you don't accidentally peel the paint with it.
 
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