If you want to go with a "kit", contact Jim McShane. Tell him what you have and ask him if it's possible for him to build a kit for you. Jim's worse parts are about 10 orders of magnitude better than FISHERDOC's generic base model parts. Putting it another way, you wouldn't want Chevette parts in a 396SS Chevelle even if they do fit. If you want to stay true to the original style can caps on the top, you have 2-3 options. 1.) gut and restuff it, 2.) disconnect and install individual caps underneath, or use a combination of CE Manufaturing generic caps with extra caps underneath to fill out the missing sections. 3.) Get custom can's from Hayseed Hamfest.
Nichicon manufactures pencil type caps that are tall and narrow. Ideal for stuffing cans.
The only thing I don't care for is how Jim McShane stacks main filter caps on the top of the unit. They are stacked using clamps , and the leads are exposed to fingers. Fingers and H.V. don't mix. I'd rather get can's. So if you opt for a kit from Jim explain you'll get the can's elsewhere. You may r may not like how the Hayseed can's look. They are not identical in looks to the originals. But they DO exceed all original spec's for the can caps, including temps (105*C). See below for a pic of Hayseed can caps on an 800-C or 400.
View attachment 641726
Back in the early 70's the numbering standard for cap values changed somewhat due to manufacturing efficiency (smaller overall size) and the shift over to aluminum electrolytics vs. Wax and paper caps. Instead of the old 10-20-30-40-50, etc uF caps, you'd now have 8-22,27,33,39,47,56,68,82,100 etc. uF caps.
Tolerance values changed to a straight +/-20% as the normal standard, with 10%, 5%, and 1% values available. Old Tolerances could be as high as +90% / -50% with the majority being +50% / - 20%.
Getting a new cap that will fit in the unit calls for a couple things. Physical size limits, type of cap(mica, film, lytic, tantalum), value and voltage(DC and or AC). Generally the voltages you are looking for are DC Voltages. Most of the caps are going to be either sub 1uf ceramics, mylar film, paper in oil, or styrene. Styrene's usually leave alone. They are extremely sensitive to heat and require extra steps to minimize heat propagation to the cap. FISHER used a very high quality ceramic in their gear. Best to leave them alone in this case unless they are blown apart. Paper in oils are generally good caps, but in the FISHER's of that era the German PIO's didn't hold up well. replace them. Mylars (ERO-FOL II) tend to be ok. I'd check for leakage and replace as necessary. (replace it's mirror cap). Tantalums IMO shouldn't be in an audio unit. I'd replace with a film cap and be done with it.
As for replacing values. Here's an example.
.5uf ---> .47
.05uf---->.047
.005uf-----> .0047uf
Other values will work out basically the same
Try not to go down or less on value. One exception I know of is 40uf. a 39uf cap is ok here. As long as it's within the +/- 20% tolerance it's ok, but going up in value is preferred to going down. 47uf is readily available. 39uf not so much.
CAP VOLTAGE. NEVER GO DOWN IN VOLTAGE. Either stay the same or go up. It won't hurt to go up a reasonable amount, Going from 400V to 630V is ok. Going from 250v to 630v cap is too much IMO. Change in Size for one. The other has to do with reforming or voltage capacity of a large voltage cap used in a low voltage situation.
Any Electrolytic of today is quieter than the best of the 1960's caps. You don't need to worry about low esr (power factor), as it's way lower in todays general caps than yesteryears best caps.
Electrolytics to look for are these series for general overhaul work in audio gear.
NICHICON Brand
UPW Series .......> Power supplies
UHE Series.......> Power supplies
UKL Series.......> Signal path
The above are all radial (both leads on one end)
TVX series.......> Any position an AXIAL is needed.
PANASONIC Brand (I use Nichicons so I'm not as versed in the Pannie's)
FC Series .........> Roughly equivalent to UPW / UHE series
FILM Caps.
Space limitations .........Cornell Dublier "DME" series
General work................Sprague ""ORANGE DROPS"
...."..."........"..................Any of the Illinois Brand Axials
Coupling caps..............Any of the above, plus "Boutique" caps,
......."..........".................plus good not leaking ERO-FOL II's, Russian K-42's, etc.
There are too many brands, types to list. I would start out and build a basic restoration with good general caps to establish a sound baseline. Then roll caps. Yeah it can get expensive. Some peple fill a unit with one type or brand of cap in all the coupling positions, which can impart a certain tonal quality to the unit based on the cap used. You don't want this. So mix them up. But when you mix them up, use the same cap on the same position LEFT AND RIGHT.
Antique Electronic supply (
www.tubesandmore.com) has the Illinois axial at a decent price. The Cornell Dublier DME is a very good cap, IMO it's as good as or better than a Orange Drop. Plus it's smaller and less expensive than the O.D. (easier to get into those tight spaces.)
This should get you started. Like Dave said, there are a lot of knowledgable guys here. And more than a few should have X-1000's.
Larry