Infinity 6 Kappa x-over recap

musicman95

Member
So this is the first time I'v ever recapped a speaker. Hadn't listened to them in a while because they were ear bleedingly bright, then someone told me that I should recap them because that might be the cause. When i went to open up the x-over there was no slack in the wires to pull it out more than an inch. I then pulled out the 10" driver to get to it and noticed that theres a fair mount of glue holding the x-over down. I stopped there for fear of breaking something. Any advice on how to get that out of there?? Also when I'm done do I need to put a sealant down around the driver?? Also is there any particular way I should put the insulation back in there? I'v read that pushing it back to give it some room is a good idea. Lastly do I need to replace all 6 caps? Or just the ones for the polydome and emit?
 

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Those sandwich type xos are not fun to work on. To get it out have you tried removing the wires from the emit and polydome and fish them down through? You can try just replacing the tweeter and polydome caps but they may still be bright. They are not a laid back type speaker to say the least.
 
If you are digging in for some, wouldn't this be a good time to replace all the caps in the crossover? I've got a pair of Kappa 8's that need the same job and the price tag for all the caps using Dayton Audio brand ones from Parts Express ain't so bad. I'll be replacing the double diode while I'm in there just because it's the only other component that might need it after 30 years.
 
Those sandwich type xos are not fun to work on. To get it out have you tried removing the wires from the emit and polydome and fish them down through? You can try just replacing the tweeter and polydome caps but they may still be bright. They are not a laid back type speaker to say the least.

I was looking at removing the wires but the polydome has its own cabinet/compartment (not sure what to call it) within the speaker and the wire is glued where it goes through it. Then on the x-over all the connections are also covered with glue. I just don't want to break anything. How do I go about removing the glue if possible? and when I re-glue everything can I just use a hot glue gun or is there something specific I need?
 
If you are digging in for some, wouldn't this be a good time to replace all the caps in the crossover? I've got a pair of Kappa 8's that need the same job and the price tag for all the caps using Dayton Audio brand ones from Parts Express ain't so bad. I'll be replacing the double diode while I'm in there just because it's the only other component that might need it after 30 years.

Ya you're right. I'll just go ahead and replace them all. Is there a specific type of cap that I need? I know I need non polarity caps but that's pretty much the extent of my knowledge. You mentioned Dayton Audio why them?
 
The glue on the wires can chiseled out carefully around the wires. The glue is part of the pita I mention about these little xos. You can try a heat gun to soften up.
 
Alternatively you can cut the wires in the middle and then splice them back after you're done. Might be less destructive overall, even if you have to add a few inches of wire to make it easier to put everything back together.
 
Ya you're right. I'll just go ahead and replace them all. Is there a specific type of cap that I need? I know I need non polarity caps but that's pretty much the extent of my knowledge. You mentioned Dayton Audio why them?

Looking at the Infinity RS Kappa 6 technical sheet, I see the following caps are used:

4.5 uF PP (SOLEN)
0.01 uF PP (WONDER)
5 uF PP
25 uF NPE
12.5 uF NPE
100 uF NPE​

The "PP" is for polypropylene and the "NPE" is for non-polarized electrolytic. I'm guessing the "SOLEN" is to point out using a high quality Solen brand cap and the "WONDER" is a similar high-end brand (which I've never heard of).

I'd use Dayton Audio in my Kappa 8's because they are very good quality while being a fraction of the high end name brand prices.

Here is what I'd order from Parts-Express.com if I were rebuilding your crossover. (I hope anyone better at this will chime in and correct me where I'm wrong).

For the 100 uF NPE:

027-360 Parts Express NPE 100 µF Axial 10% 100V $1.50

For the 12.5 uF NPE (they don't have an NPE with the exact 12.5 uF value, so you just buy enough coils to add up to 12.5 uF [so you get the same corssover frequency] and just install them in series to add up to the total inductance of 12.5 uF):

027-340 Parts Express NPE 10 µF Axial 10% 100V $0.67 +
027-322 Parts Express NPE 1.5 µF Axial 10% 100V $0.50 +
027-320 Parts Express NPE 1.0 µF Axial 10% 100V $0.50

For the 25 uF NPE:

027-348 Parts Express NPE 22 µF Axial 10% 100V $0.86 +
027-322 Parts Express NPE 1.5 µF Axial 10% 100V $0.50 +
027-322 Parts Express NPE 1.5 µF Axial 10% 100V $0.50

For the 5 uF PP:

027-232 Dayton Audio metalized polyproplene 5.1 µF 1% 250V $4.48

For the 0.01 uF PP (WONDER):

027-100 Audyn metalized polyproplene 0.01 µF 5% 400V $1.37

For the 4.5 uF PP (SOLEN):

027-550 Solen 4.3 µF 5% 400V $4.01 +
027-632 Solen 0.22 µF 5% 700V $14.58
 
Try some laboratory grade ISO on that glue (make sure it flows under it long enough) It's like magic.
 
Wow, I completely forgot to write anything after I finished the recap. Well it's been 2 years since then and they sound MUCH better with new caps. I accidentally ordered all polypropylene caps and didn't have the patience to return them to parts express and order electrolitics, so I somehow fit all of them in there. One of the caps was literally the size of my wrist! :eek: I'm sure if I posted pictures of the x-over everyone would get a good laugh out of it. But it worked and now the 6's sound smooth and detailed with minimal grain, they're my "bookshelf" speakers in my room now and get plenty of use. :)
 
LOL mm95 I just responded on another thread you visited today. I'm thinking of recapping my 6.1's so I'm gathering info. Nice!
 
Wow, I completely forgot to write anything after I finished the recap. Well it's been 2 years since then and they sound MUCH better with new caps. I accidentally ordered all polypropylene caps and didn't have the patience to return them to parts express and order electrolitics, so I somehow fit all of them in there. One of the caps was literally the size of my wrist! :eek: I'm sure if I posted pictures of the x-over everyone would get a good laugh out of it. But it worked and now the 6's sound smooth and detailed with minimal grain, they're my "bookshelf" speakers in my room now and get plenty of use. :)
How did you unstack the crossover?I loosened some screws and nothing budged...i was afraid to force it ,so I stopped
 
How did you unstack the crossover?I loosened some screws and nothing budged...i was afraid to force it ,so I stopped

If I remember correctly, you have to unmount the large iron core inductor which is glued and screwed down. It's a bit of a pain but patience will.prevail.
 
If I remember correctly, you have to unmount the large iron core inductor which is glued and screwed down. It's a bit of a pain but patience will.prevail.
Thank you..I believe we have spoken in thexinfinity group on facebook..you are always helpful.im the guy with the white rs lls..lol..I want to replace the electrolytics..not gonna mess the the polys..nervous about fiddling with that stack man..lol
.
 
If I remember correctly, you have to unmount the large iron core inductor which is glued and screwed down. It's a bit of a pain but patience will.prevail.
This guy?
 

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This guy?

That's the one.

.I want to replace the electrolytics..not gonna mess the the polys..nervous about fiddling with that stack man..lol

I did the same with my Kappa 6s, just replaced the electrolytics. I've found the Mundorf A/C E-caps work quite well. They are the same 5% tolerance as the original Culvers. The re-capped Kappa 6s are a permanent part of my bedroom system. They work great in the smaller space where a larger Kappa would be too much.
 
That's the one.



I did the same with my Kappa 6s, just replaced the electrolytics. I've found the Mundorf A/C E-caps work quite well. They are the same 5% tolerance as the original Culvers. The re-capped Kappa 6s are a permanent part of my bedroom system. They work great in the smaller space where a larger Kappa would be too much.
I love mine in my mid to small size living room.anything else is over kill.i was using psb stratus bronze,but when i would go into the house after listening to my rs lls in my garage mancave, the psbs sounded dull for music...decided to side by side them with my 6 kappa which I was using for surrounds in ths cave..it wasnt even close..couldnt go back..now i can listen to music again in my living room without disappointment.spent the holidays sanding and refinishing them,and cutting 12 inches off my stands height and angling..love these
 

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That's the one.



I did the same with my Kappa 6s, just replaced the electrolytics. I've found the Mundorf A/C E-caps work quite well. They are the same 5% tolerance as the original Culvers. The re-capped Kappa 6s are a permanent part of my bedroom system. They work great in the smaller space where a larger Kappa would be too much.
Just 1 more question hopefully...is the 250 volt ok on the capacitors as long as I match the uf and stay within 5%? According to the schematics it looks like i will need 12.5,25, and 100uf....of course infinity switches things up so I am gonna eyeball the caps first b4 I order....
 
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