Mini-tutorial: How to disassemble Marantz pushswitches for better cleaning/de-Oxiting

My experience:

I had a sticky mono switch on a Marantz 2230 and despite trying Deoxit it would not work properly. Getting the switch apart was pretty easy and cleaning it was straightforward. My issue was getting the little metal pin at the top of the switch to go back in correctly. It took dozens of tries with lots of losing the pin and needing to go looking for it inside the unit. Many bad words were uttered.

It is not for the feint of heart but sometimes there is no other options available other than replacing the whole switch. Just be prepared for a ;ot of trial and error and keep track of that little pin should it go off on its own adventure.
 
I've had dozens of vintage Marantz come through here and most had dirty and or stuck switches. IME, they were all cleanable without taking them apart. The flush method works. I put a 90 degree bend at the end of the straw to better target the seams.
 
Well, if you look there's also a hole in the top of the switch body. Fill the whole damn body with D5 and work it around. Between that, and shooting it in from the front only the worst should still be a problem.
 
Great thread!

This thread gave me the inspiration to tackle my 2230 and give the switches and knobs a good going over.

My 2230 would crackle, buzz, and the left channel would come and go- but now, all is well!

I didn't take the push switches apart- I just shot some D5 in, worked them back and forth several times, then hit them with some F5, and worked them some more.

I had that wacky blue power switch, that would feel really sluggish, and didn't go on & off easily- I hit it with some D5, and worked it back & forth for a while, and wow, what a difference. It's not perfect, but works MUCH better.

In the near future, a recap is coming!
 
Hello Mr. harleyrider: I did exactly what you mentioned on your tutorial. My Marantz 2220 looks brand new now. THANKS !!!!

From Buenos Aires, Argentina. Alex.
 
I had to replace a busted button, thank goodness this topic was posted. All went well except for getting the rascal back together. I used some floss to tie sides of the spring compressed and just cut it with a razor blade. I don't know how in the world a guy could get that little retainer slipped back in without that spring compressed. Hope this helps anyone doing this task.:beerchug:


button.JPG
 
How do you remove the aluminium covers of the botton? thank you
Try freezing them and then drop them into a pot of hot water. It rapid expansion should pop the glue holding the plastic insert. Use the right size screw driver to twist the insert. Just a suggestion. Good luck
 
We all know, that the switches of the Marantz receivers often cause problems. In most cases, it is sufficient to spray de-oxit in there as often recommended here on AK. But the spray will go all over the board, too. I don't like that so much... ;-)

Sometimes, I also had really dirty switches with bad contacts. The switch even did not MOVE properly. So I thought it is better to remove the switch. You can easily clean all contacts then.

Here is how I do. You do not even need access from the inside of the receiver. (but it`s of big advantage though....:D)

One word on the beginning: please use this small tutorial at your own risk! If your switches are working well, there is probably no need to do this, of course. It's on you to decide! Make yourself familiar with how the switch works before you start! This is just, how I do it. If you don't feel to have very skilled fingers, better don't do it. Thank you.

Here we go:

First remove the front of course and put the receiver upside down. Here it is a 2245.

VERY IMPORTANT: the switch has to be in the OFF-position:



Pull the little spring towards yourself and hold it in that position until you have access to the little metall piece you see on the top.











Done!

If you want, you can put a little bit of grease on the moving elements. (Where the metall piece is)

Here another switch:



Some switches have a different mechanism, they look like this. I havent figured out yet, how to open them. And there might be others, I dont know. :sigh:



How do you remove the aluminium covers of the switches? thank you
 
Hi,

sorry for the late response, I am not here much often any more.....

Just pull them down. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. If not, don't pull too heavy, there is the risk, that the shaft will break.
 
i have also gently slipped a tiny jewelers screwdriver under the top to get the spray in there
 
It is a pity that all the pictures in the thread are not there anymore. It seems all the pictures have been disappearing from threads lately, or is that just me?
 
It is a pity that all the pictures in the thread are not there anymore. It seems all the pictures have been disappearing from threads lately, or is that just me?
Not just you. It’s a combination of AK migrating to the XenForo platform and photobucket disabling photos on third party sites (unless you pay a fee).
 
We all know, that the switches of the Marantz receivers often cause problems. In most cases, it is sufficient to spray de-oxit in there as often recommended here on AK. But the spray will go all over the board, too. I don't like that so much... ;-)

Sometimes, I also had really dirty switches with bad contacts. The switch even did not MOVE properly. So I thought it is better to remove the switch. You can easily clean all contacts then.

Here is how I do. You do not even need access from the inside of the receiver. (but it`s of big advantage though....:D)

One word on the beginning: please use this small tutorial at your own risk! If your switches are working well, there is probably no need to do this, of course. It's on you to decide! Make yourself familiar with how the switch works before you start! This is just, how I do it. If you don't feel to have very skilled fingers, better don't do it. Thank you.

Here we go:

First remove the front of course and put the receiver upside down. Here it is a 2245.

VERY IMPORTANT: the switch has to be in the OFF-position:



Pull the little spring towards yourself and hold it in that position until you have access to the little metall piece you see on the top.



Now, lift up that piece carefully and pull the switch out. It's a good idea to have a look inside too, to see how it works. If you know, and with a little bit of practice, it's possible to do it from outside only...



Take care of the little springs inside. There is a spring behind every contact on the stick. They easily get lost and tend to fly through the whole working room!



WARNING AGAIN!!! EDIT: As of today (January 2011) I receive nearly every second week a message from people who lost at least one of these little springs! I have not many left and if you loose this spring, I cannot help you anymore with spare part springs! So, be careful! And again: If you do not feel to disassemble the switch, don't do it. Thank you for your understanding!


Here I added a photo, of what you can expect:




Now you have acess to the contacts for cleaning. Don't forget to clean the contacts inside the unit, too. These are usually worse, than the one on the stick. Use a cotton swab, or whatever you like. :thmbsp:

Reassemble vice versa:







Done!

If you want, you can put a little bit of grease on the moving elements. (Where the metall piece is)

Here another switch:




Some switches have a different mechanism, they look like this. I havent figured out yet, how to open them. And there might be others, I dont know. :sigh:



Thanks for watching and good luck.

:beerchug:
Wow! great presentation and pics! I was under the impression that all of my scratch and dropouts were coming from the various pots including the balance, I will clean these as soon as the truck project is out of the garage! Do you have any switches or a balance pot by chance? Over the years and times this unit sat on the floor I broke the metal knobs off the on off switch and the balance pot.
Gramp48
 
Has anybody tried the new Caig L260 grease on these switches? From their description, it seems like it would be perfect for lubrication as well as keeping the contacts clean. They have an offer right now (Feb. 2018) for a free sample so I might try it on my current rebuilds.
 
Has anybody tried the new Caig L260 grease on these switches? From their description, it seems like it would be perfect for lubrication as well as keeping the contacts clean. They have an offer right now (Feb. 2018) for a free sample so I might try it on my current rebuilds.
yes I have.. I use it for the slide switches and I use in rebuilding the power switches.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....t-l2600np-deoxit-grease.811231/#post-11350995

This thread shows the rebuilding of the power switch with the L260 grease.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ok-here-are-the-pics-for-my-2285b-project.807017/

I've been very happy with it. On the speaker switches I just did, I measured a .5 ohm decrease after cleaning and using the grease.
 
I want to add that I used the same grease on some speaker switches ( new style) that I had to take apart. The manual cleaning and grease dropped the contact resistance by .5 ohms and fixed some nasty noise. It WAS a bit of work to get the switch board out and the switches apart. I had to pull the board then I had to unsolder the switches from the PWB then take them apart. I had one with a missing U bracket or I might not have taken them completely apart. This was a 2285B for the record.
 
thanks a lot for the tutorial!
although a bit different, but it helped me fixed a "auto return" push button on my AKAI AA-1125.
 
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