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Above Photo of the NEW FFCs
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Above Photo with yellow circles of the Solder to Insert Header 4 and 5 pin cable. #9,#10,#11 usually toast
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Above photo of #9 solder to insert header (one end is solder into one board the other end inserts into a header)
PS: I can see where the C30 may be the McIntosh Preamp of choice after all.
Well,
This has been a Kind of labor of Love? We are going through a few more prototypes of the FFC cables for the McIntosh C32 preamp. We have had quotes from China and currently I have decided to have these made here in the USA. Its nice to talk with the actual factory who can make modifications while on the phone. Here is a photo of our numbering system for the FFC. THIS INSTALL IS NOT FOR THE NOVICE! I am saying that because you do have to remove boards if you are going to replace FFCs. Removing the Headphone Amplifier board which is absent in the above photos really makes the install go faster.
"The LED Light Strip PC Board" requires you to remove the "Listen Mode Selector PC Board" and the "Tone Frequency Control Board" PC Board. The "LED Light Strip PC Board" has an extended Hex Nut and you have to use Hemostats or a very fine needle nose pliers to keep them from rotating while you unscrew from the front Foam Strip. I am preparing a Cheat Sheet but it proves to be almost a book so I may ditch the whole Cheat Sheet concept and just do You Tube videos for each step.
This is my 3rd carcass C32 donor unit that not only had the FFCs delaminate but the cable of Solder to Straight Pin Header also have serious issues (Ribbons 9-13 circled in Yellow). To keep from soldering, I think the easy fix for these 4 and 5 pin Solder to Straight pin is to remove the laminate (they almost fall off) and insert a shrink tube or empty wire sleeve, clean the ends and reinsert. I am trying to keep the cost down while keeping the caliber and quality control to the highest level, thus the USA vendor. More later.
Getting a C32 Tuesday.....Put me on a list when these replacements are completed. Will send you a PM.