Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
Finally got the parts and the will power to attack the 2325 that I just purchased. It plays great, but everything is original and I want to set it up to play another 30 years. I started with the P800 power supply board and made the capacitor replacements recommended by Leestereo in his excellent rebuild thread here:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....oration-and-upgrade-of-a-marantz-2325.689386/.
I replaced R801 with a recommended 150 ohm resistor increasing the rating from 5W to 7W and mounting off of the board for cooling. I replaced all of the electrolytic caps, upping the capacitance and voltage ratings where he suggested. I used his suggested Nichicon PW series caps that are low ESR and 105 degree celsius rated. Also replaced the DS-131B Dual diodes at H808 and H809 with NXP BYQ28E-200,127 replacements. The protection relay was replaced with a drop-in LY2-0-DC24. In addition, I went with Catrafters recommendation in that thread and replaced the two TO-220 case 2SD331 transistors at H801 and H802 with MJE15030 as replacements. To read my glue removal saga, check out this thread:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/glue-removal-from-pc-board.736711/#post-9976675
After testing with the DBT, the voltage easily adjusted to 35VDC with R809. And to make it even better....everything works! Here are a few pics of the work on the board:
Before
Major components removed leaving lots of glue
After clean up. Some black plastic from the old cap bottoms would not come off.
New components on board
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....oration-and-upgrade-of-a-marantz-2325.689386/.
I replaced R801 with a recommended 150 ohm resistor increasing the rating from 5W to 7W and mounting off of the board for cooling. I replaced all of the electrolytic caps, upping the capacitance and voltage ratings where he suggested. I used his suggested Nichicon PW series caps that are low ESR and 105 degree celsius rated. Also replaced the DS-131B Dual diodes at H808 and H809 with NXP BYQ28E-200,127 replacements. The protection relay was replaced with a drop-in LY2-0-DC24. In addition, I went with Catrafters recommendation in that thread and replaced the two TO-220 case 2SD331 transistors at H801 and H802 with MJE15030 as replacements. To read my glue removal saga, check out this thread:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/glue-removal-from-pc-board.736711/#post-9976675
After testing with the DBT, the voltage easily adjusted to 35VDC with R809. And to make it even better....everything works! Here are a few pics of the work on the board:
Before
Major components removed leaving lots of glue
After clean up. Some black plastic from the old cap bottoms would not come off.
New components on board