Recent content by crooner

The service manual can be found on: http://www.tubebooks.org/file_downloads/McIntosh/C24.pdf Page 7 has the diagram of the circuit, which confirms this an attenuated signal going to the headphones.

Hi Warren, There is no built in headphones amp on this preamp. There should be a diagram on the top cover explaining the circuit. I'm glad my post is available after so many years

I am not familiar with that kit, but in general I find these recap kits to be of poor value. It pays off to study the service manual/schematics and order the parts from Mouser, Digikey or some NOS online vendor/eBay as needed. You also need to use common sense. For instance, the yellow Siemens...

At this point, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get something newer that supports higher resolution audio. My current DAC is a Lampizator, and I couldn't be happier. There are also lower priced brands that are outstanding as well. As good as the EAD was in its day, technology has improved...

Correct. I've owned seven 8Bs in the last 20 years or so and I've never had to replace those bumblebees.

I agree with the sentiment that if it ain't broke don't fix it. I replace the bias selenium with a silicon diode and the bias filter cap(s) as a matter of course. Also adding a series resistor to compensate for the lower voltage drop of the new diode. If the amp doesn't draw excessive current...

I'm the author of those "ultimate" threads mentioned above. Unfortunately I have never had to replace the pilot light bezel (or jewel) on any of my preamps. I understand some replacements come without it, and you would need to transfer the existing bezel to the new faceplate. I would image these...

Did you remove the faceplate? There is likely another nut under there...

I ended up replacing the two transformers inside my bucking unit (one for each Marantz 9 monoblock) with the Hammond 166N6's. Bucked AC voltage is now averaging 113V or so. Just like at my old location. I'm a happy camper!

Germanium based. Confirmed also by the post before yours...

Excellent point. I am in the California desert, so it's gonna get hot here. In the past, in my other location, I saw a drop of a few volts occasionally on the hottest days. I don't know how the drop in AC line voltage will be at my new place. We'll see. I may end up replacing the transformers...

Thank you. Yes, I'm tempted at leaving it as-is at 109V. I admit I only listened to the amps briefly and did not re-bias them, which they will probably need. I could swap the radio shack transformers on my present bucker, and like Brice said, it would give me both 6 and 3V reduction. The Radio...

I did some searching and found a Hammond transformer, model 166N6 that is rated at 6.3V center tapped @ 4A. Hopefully the holes will line up with the radio shack transformer...

That's very nice Brice. Below is picture of my box. I have the two transformers inside, a NTC thermistor based soft start feature that's switchable manually and a digital voltmeter/ammeter for each transformer. I used Hubbell hospital grade outlets and fused the box as well.