Recent content by Drugolf

You bet.

I reached out to Bill Watkins and asked what the clear glue is they use to adhere the surround to the clear poly cone. He wouldn't tell me. Wit a little chemistry research, rubbing alcohol worked well to remove the old residual.

I've got the gluing part covered, but man has anyone got any tricks up their sleeve for getting this glue off the cone from the original surround? What a pain these are.

Kinda embarrased to post this one. Was testing the Ascend Acoustics until the wife got home.

I have a pair of 803b that have the red surround. And a lone 803a from 1955 it appears. The 803a was used with a KS12025 horn and 802c compression driver in a mono speaker.

Actually I have both. The ones currently sporting he covers need a re-cone though. long story short I got those from a guy using it just as a woofer w/o a CD on them. I can swap the covers over to the other pair with the good cones. The covers allow all bolt on options it appears. That's an...

Unfortunately the 2425 I have are the screw on mount HS type which the 1580 isn't set up for. My 2426H are 3 screw which will work with the magnet covers. Too bad as I'd rather use the 2425 because their diaphragms need replacement anyway. The diaphragms on the 22426H are okay as-is but I'll...

That's good stuff Earl! I have both 2425 and 2426 drivers currently. Considering using one for the HF driver on a set of PAS CXL-1580. Was looking at buying new Radian 475 drivers but this might be the way to go instead. Any thoughts?

Toby this last spring still a kitten. He's 14 months now.

For a beginner you've done great! How much time you giving the caps to burn in before trying something else?

Outstanding! Thanks Toad. I had searched here but that was a 3500 so I missed it in my effort. BTW, the glue used by Sansui to hold on the caps is ridiculously hard. Cutting blade on my dremel was needed and even that was not so easy.

Yeah, that is what I am seeing too unless someone else comes along with the actual process. What makes it difficult is the spring clips are soldered to the board of course because that is how they make a connection to the crossover. No wires.

These are Sansui SP2500 crossovers that I am re-capping and would like to replace the spring terminals. I had hoped I could get to the other side of the board by simply removing the 6 screws but in addition the board is held on by the spring terminals and I don't know how to un-do them. Any...

I am servicing a Cerwin Vega crossover (U 351) that has a protection relay thingy in it. Any reason not to just bypass this thing at this point?

Ah yes, F-3+ Grado little black nubbins on the stylus. Moving Iron. interesting thanks