I'm in Chicago this weekend and the next week - flew in from Brussels. The weather is crazy. I'd liked to have seen some of the action but it's really bad out there...
Heat paste. Should be applied very very thin to bridge any imperfections between transistor package and heatsink. When done correctly, it improves heat conductivity.
No, not in series. There is virtually no current running through a neon bulb, so the motor would not be able to run.
From the drawing, looks like it's tapping off from the middle of the motor coil. So in parallel with half of the coil.
It slipped on mine, after working good for many years. The cause was that the grease in the switch part was gunked up so bad that the band slipped and the switch didn't move when the lever was moved between speeds. But the symptoms were different than what's reported here.
There is no relay. My table's switch looks like @tnsilver 's one. I have a very early MK II. Yours seems to be from later production, or an aftermarket replacement?
It almost has to be the that part between the speed rotator and the switch. Maybe that iron cable that connects both doesn't move...
It is. But it has a double meaning in Dutch, and they are alluding on that too. Toekomstmuziek is also "something that may happen in the future" (a bit like pipe dream, but more positive)
long story short:
- leave the arm cabling alone
- cut the audio cable as close as possible near the mute switch, if both channel's grounds are twisted together. Else leave them in place.
- cut any solder bridge that DUAL placed between grounds, at the mute switch
if you cut the audio cable...
DUALs were factory made according to Europe DIN schema. When imported to the USA, the DIN cable was replaced by Phono cables. But the insides were not altered.
For a DIN cable, both signal grounds and the table grounds are coupled together at the table.
Usually, the shielding of left and...