Recent content by Joshstereo

Yes I believe everything you say Tom is true but there might be one exception. The protruding B series face receivers (2330B, 2285B, 2265B, 2252B, and 2238B) might be different then the other 22xx series because they used red LEDs for the indicator lamps. I have a 2252B parts unit and a 22xx...

Stick in a 12V or 14V incandescent, itll run a bit cooler and you should still notice the dial lights are on. Other models that use the same lamp housing are the 2265B, 2252B, 2238B and possibly the 2330B (might be too big but looks to be the same size).

Unfortunately there was no follow up to this thread. But I came across a G7700 the other day that would power on, all the lamps would turn on but the safely operate light would not illuminate and of course the relay would not click either. So after reading this thread I decided to take...

Just a question to those getting the thumping sounds. Did you replace all 6 transistors with ksc1845`s? I have had that issue with a 2250B a couple times and came to the conclusion that the HFE was too high and ended up putting in Ksc1815 for the 2sc458.

Can you email me at philster79@hotmail.com the details of pricing and shipping? Or is there a website you have these on? Thanks

Excellent! I wouldl love to buy one. Do you have any 2285B black faces?

Hi Bob, do you still have or make any marantz model 18 black faces? I just got one and the face lettering is all worn out. Thanks

Unfortunately no, I got lazy and forgot. I dont have the amp or manual anymore.

Well actual Marantz did make a tension adjuster of sorts. The tensioner spring inside the black flywheel thing. In some cases using that has tightened up the string enough to get rid of the slipping for me, just pull both ends of the string towards the wheel. That will make slack and the spring...

Do you know how to solder? You will have to remove the face and the bottom cover to access the old switch. Cut the old switch out and solder the wires to the new switch.

Hard to tell really but looks like a combination of Panasonic (the blue ones?) Nichicon (gold ones) and I think I see a brown one which is a silmic.

Yes which is why I generally do recaps with silmics. Look inside them and see which caps were used.

Well that is one of the huge debates in the vintage stereo world. Some people will tell you that it makes a big difference and some will say it does not. I personally think it makes a bit of a difference. For some reason I believe elna silmics sound better or warmer then most. But thats based on...

Did you use the exact same brand of caps in each unit?

The digikey page doesnt show all the details for the switch. If you look at the datasheet that Bruce provided you will see its also rated at 4A 250V The shaft is a square 3mm wide so you may have to modify your cap (button). If it is concave like you say then its not original. Take a pic of it...