Recent content by kcmoejoe

thanks for the info, good to know. The silver metal one is for the midrange. The only difference and it isn't much is the left (now that the wire is resoldered to cap) is a bit louder volume wise. Not huge, maybe down the road I at least switch those caps out. Also, Hammer is readily on...

Fixed: ok, the last place you look...I pulled the crossover out on the left speaker and found the capacitor wire had broken off it's solder connection. All is well again with more mid range! still maybe caps could be changed..but sounds good so far.

Got a question...had these for a long time given to me by a friend because the woofers needed re-foaming. They sound really nice, but guess I never noticed the mid range speakers don't produce any sound but the right speaker does intermittently produces sound while listening but keeps cutting...

I think I may have reached my limit on this issue it seems. I really hate to throw in the towel because I like to finish what I start, BUT... I checked the aux connections in the rear of unit, all looks solid at connections and grounds. Soaked the vol pot again and faderlubed it and balance, it...

I did that back on post #91. With both jumpers removed it's quiet. I hooked up a separate amp to the Pre-outs and the noise is still there on the right channel. Also, ran MP3 player into Main In and it was quiet...So, that means it's got to be in the pre-amp control board, correct?

Ran the test on R10, R11 just like you said and still have the static...so that rules out the two in series with the aux switch, they did test within 5% of 100ohm. I noticed while no buttons are selected it still has static also, is that because the two resistors are lifted from circuit?

Ok, did the jumpers on the pins and made sure the aux switch was out (off) nothing selected. It started off quiet, turned volume up a bit then the static started coming back. Not sure I'm following you about ruling out or in the resistors. Can I just test them one at a time with one leg lifted...

I asked a guy (Jordan Pier) on youtube who does professional service and this was his reply... Leakage of voltages in push button can cause this. No easy fix I'm afraid. Might be leakage through the board too. Definitely true for sets near the beach. Best bet is to harvest a complete board with...

I used a 1/4" headphone plug and deoxit and worked it in and out of the mic inputs, didn't seem to affect it. The static noise just continues and sometimes gets a little louder and pops in and out. guess i should start testing resistors on the AWS-069 board next.?

well darn, that wasn't the problem. Upon further inspection of R26 it had a different color code (680 ohm) than R25 so it wasn't bad, just had the wrong value installed before I had the unit. I did get my hands on the correct 1.5k and installed it, so they now match very closely at around 1.470 ohm.

R26 was the only bad reading on all the EQ resistors...will place order and replace as a pair for both channels. I went ahead and got 100 ohms for the AWS-069 board if I need to troubleshoot it next. Thanks so much for your help narrowing it down Larry.

Ok, good to know. thanks for the info. So far I've tested 8 resistors on EQ. See if I'm on to something here...all check within 5% except R26 (believe it's the R channel) suppose to be 1.5k ohm - reads .673 ohm. to compare I tested L channel R 25 1.5k and it reads 1.472 ohms.

I have really soaked all the function switches, keep thinking the AUX is faulty of course. Just went back and faderlubed them all. So help me understand, If the switch was oxidized would it only cause one channel to have static? I will take another look at AWS-069 for cold solder joints. I...

The mic inputs on the front have wires that run over and connect to AWS-069 that is for the AM thru Aux function buttons. So, focusing on the EQ board, I've replace (again) all 8 transistors. Should I focus on the caps now having gone bad, then the resistors (these have to be checked with one...

Duplicate ON = static Tape 1 ON = no static Tape 2 ON = no static Dolby NR ON = no static Mono ON = static This is all done with the Aux input selected. The mic board is the same as the bd the Aux switch is mounted to, right?