Recent content by native

Id like to buy a set if still available.

Would you like me to mail you the parts you need?

Send that dog back and spend your time on more worthy projects, like wonky 1980 tuner circuits. :biggrin:

PM me your address and I'd be glad to send you one.

Sell the 3700 and get both. Working on the flouroscans is a certain level of hell.

I set the bias on my 1250 to 100mv per side and my variac is showing 100 watts consumption at idle! That seems really high to bias the outputs and and run a few bulbs. Seems to me to be a waste of power, creates a bunch of heat, and just generally be hard on everything. Is this a mistake in...

Congrats! It's a great feeling, isn't it?

All thanks to hints you provided in this thread. Thanks Mark! :music:

I had this exact problem. Hum in both channels at no volume, disappears when the jumpers are pulled. I recapped the entire unit, still hummed. I found rail voltage on pin 25 on the power supply. Replaced d8, q2 and q4 and the hum is banished!

16mv wont put it into protect, did you check offset?

If it's nicotene, windex will take it right off. Remove faceplate, spray, rub with fingers and wipe off. Never lifter a letter.

Use a 1.5mm hex key. Make sure it is not worn, you dont want to booger the set screws.

By "looked" I meant "probed", it was not visually apparent. It's a good thing the other half of the styrene pair was still there and measurable as there were no markings on the caps themselves. The most difficult part of this repair was finding where the signal was dropped.

Well, we got it fixed. Took the board down to Mike at Austin Stereo. Mike is a close personal friend and allows me bench privileges on Saturdays. He looked at the board for about 30 seconds and pointed at the open cap. I replaced the 2nf styrene pair, soldered it back into the chassis, and I...

ground to near pins: open, 158ohm ground to far pins: open, 77ohm in to out 177ohm both channels