I had a 6550 blow up yesterday and there's a '27' written on it by the guy who rebuilt them. Each power tube has a different bias number written on it.
What do I need to do? I can't imagine bringing the amps back in every time they need a tube??
Thanks much~
Forgive me if this is a dumb question. I have Spotify on my iPad and I'd like to play it through my hi-fi. My CD player has a USB port but when I plug the iPad in, it says no support.
Thanks much...
I've got my REL wired like they want...at the speaker terminals on my MC60s. But I get a hum from the REL when the amps are on. Should I hook the REL neg. to the neg. terminal instead of common?....or to the chassis?
Thanks!
I get sound with positive and common...how come not with the negative terminal?...what's the diff?
The reason I ask is I have some buzz from my REL subwoofer which is tapped into said terminals. But the REL instructions say +/-...:scratch2:
Thanks,
Aaron
I finally got the REL T7 set up last night. It took about 10 minutes to get adjusted but I'm sure I'll mess with it a bit more but...wow! I need to get a few more hours on it but so far, it's exactly what I'd hoped for.
I was pleasantly surprised that I really can't tell where the bass is...
I'm excited to try this REL too! I ordered some Kimber 4PR....nothing fancy just thought I should get something decent. I had to have them 'made' with small spades for the MC-60s. I bought some Kimber Hero connects recently and noticed a decent improvement so the speaker cables seemed like the...
I had to bring one of my 60s in for a quick repair last week and decided to try an older SS Yamaha amp I had.....wow, no contest! The Macs are soo sweet.
:drool:
I found some more reviews of REL subs last night and I'm pleased. REL really seems to do things differently and the reviews are very good. REL subs are biased towards 2 channel stuff and that's what I'm doing. HT doesn't interest me much...
:drool: