Recent content by TenYearsGone

I just checked the voltage on pin 3 (TP403) of IC401. According to the troubleshooting guide, the voltage should be +5V, but I'm reading +0.1V. Looks like I need to replace IC401 and IC402. Anyone know of a good source for these? IC401 Mn1400pe17 (written on chip) MN1400PA (written on PCB)...

Still no luck on getting this baby running. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately, organdonorparts does not have the necessary replacement board. I disassembled and cleaned the dome switches, but the table still will not function. I also checked the gear that is prone to cracking; it does have some cracks, but should still function in...

Bump.

Well, I ordered the correct transistors for Q901-Q906 and finally got around to swapping them in tonight. Unfortunately, there is no change in behavior. Does anyone have any suggestions on troubleshooting from here? Thanks!

I'm thinking that someone has probably been inside the table. The cover under the platter is missing a few screws, the solder for some of the transistors seems to have a bit of brownish flux residue, and the rest of the transistors on the board appear to match up with the schematic.

Hi All! I've recently been working on a Technics SL-1600mk2 with a number of issues: the strobe and speed button lights illuminate, but the start button, cue button, and cue lever do nothing; the platter does not spin, even with the tonearm over it; and the repeat button light does not...

Thanks for the suggestions! I finally had a chance to do some more troubleshooting, and it turns out the residual "buzz" was coming from the nearby power transformer. It seems that both the switch and transformer were previously buzzing together, so I was still left with a bit of transformer...

I finally got around to trying this mod on an Akai AA-1125 with an arcing power switch, but it seems to have had no effect on the switch's intermittent buzzing. I even disassembled the switch and cleaned up the contacts with Deoxit beforehand for good measure. Think the switch is just too far...

Thanks for the additional info. I finally got a chance to give them a listen, and they sound pretty good! As it turns out, the surrounds aren't trashed; they're cloth and probably just need to be redoped. I also need to seal the woofers to the cabinet, but then they should be all set. Now to...

Yeah, the codes and appearance certainly point at Marantz. If the drivers are in fact from Imperial 7s, at least the cabinet volume looks to be about the same as the Model 5s.

Hi everyone! I recently snagged a pair of Altec Model 5s, only to realize later that the woofers had been swapped. The cones are blue, dustcaps are tan, and the following numbers are stamped onto the bottom: "841-1019-100" and "137 7409" (see photos). From what I can tell, the impostors appear...

Well, you nailed it kirk57. After disassembling the motor once again and making some adjustments to the bearing plate, the vibration is gone! It appears the issue was my fault all along. I remembered that when disassembling the motor the first time, I noticed that the bottom bearing plate had a...

Thanks for the suggestions! I just took the motor apart again and the shaft is still firmly connected to the magnet, so that does not appear to be the issue. In addition, I tried adding a bit of drawer/shelf liner (the soft, spongy kind) between the top plate and the motor, but it appears to...

Thanks NoTransistors, I'll have to try contacting Adam from turntableexperts.com (where I got my new belt!). kirk57-- The motor makes very little noise on its own, so it does not make the same hum when not screwed to the top plate. I think the source of the hum is just the tonearm rattling in...