Oven lighting problems..

WhiteSE

Is Lute Gluten Free??
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My wife and daughter are baking me gluten free goodies, but we are stalled by our GE BRAND NEW range.

Pilot light ignites, but the gass to the burner never seems to go on...The only thing I can think have is that thermo device on top of pilot light not getting hot enough to open the gas valve? But if that was the case, why would they give you instructions on lighting with a match in case pilot light doesnt work?
 

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usually the pilot light wont stay lit if the themocouple is shot .
it could still be the thermocouple at fault though . its that or the valve is shot or blocked .
main gas feed should not be there without pilot light being lit for a few seconds .
do you have to hold the knob in to light the pilot ? if so it might not be coming back out enough
 
is that valve separate from the one that allows gas to go to top burners?
 
Our GE gave out. Oven wouldn't light. I Investigated and found "whiskers" growing between 2 circuit boards that messed up the whole stove. Finally trashed it for a new stove.
The boards seemed to control the touch pad panel. I messed around for around a week trying to fix. New circuit boards would cost lots. I don't know where the "whiskers" came from.
 
Not any more. Valves controlled by a couple of circuit boards near the touch pad.
i never knew that . why are they making things too complicated i wonder ? so this is saying the thing wont work if the electricity goes off ..
come to think of it i once had a cooker that the oven wouldn't work without mains electricity .it needed it to turn on the gas all because it had a timer . i soon sold that one on to someone that didn't mind about it .
 
Our GE gave out. Oven wouldn't light. I Investigated and found "whiskers" growing between 2 circuit boards that messed up the whole stove. Finally trashed it for a new stove.
The boards seemed to control the touch pad panel. I messed around for around a week trying to fix. New circuit boards would cost lots. I don't know where the "whiskers" came from.
Probably tin whiskers from leadless solder.
 
Time for a new valve assembly. They are not horribly difficult, but you need to look up safety procedures for the replacement and you also will need a way to test for leaks.
 
Our local appliance guys told me recently that this kind of thing is pretty normal in consumer-grade ranges these days... we were in the process of replacing a Bosch range that wouldn't ignite (oven) any more.

The control boards literally cook to death in many of these ranges when using the self-cleaning feature. Want a stove that works for decades without that kind of built-in failure mode? Commercial ranges do not have control board... and they do not fail for that reason. But, you also don't get self-cleaning ovens and other modern features... and they're more expensive, and the burners produce WAY more BTU's than consumer-grade ranges, which comes with a learning curve before you figure out how to cook what you knew how to cook before, w/o burning everything.

I took a shot at repairing the Bosch control boards but even with schematics that was a no-go. I suspect the IC that runs the logic was fried and good luck finding that custom part. Replacement control boards are outrageously expensive and no guarantee that you replaced the right one (display board and control board are separate and it's not trivial to isolate this kind of failure to one or the other).

Eventually bought another consumer grade range, but with my eyes open this time and it has a shorter cleaning cycle than most which hopefully leads to better longevity - we'll see.

John
 
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