Another Kenwood KA-5700 Recap & BOM

I really like my little 40w KA5700 and its big bro KA 7100 60watter kenwoods.
Very good sounding amps both.
 
I agree on the relay . Will do.

Ah, so begins my fuse training.

I cannot thank you enough for being observant and taking the extra time. This is a big oversight on my part. The markings on the one of the left are MGC TOYO on one end cap. On the other end cap it is identified as a 5A 250V fuse and we see that it is in a 500mA 250V slot.

The two that have green paper sleeves in the interior of the glass tube have no identifying markings on the end caps. The only identifying information is 5 amp you can see on the glass. They are in slots both marked 5A 250V.

Observations and recommendations?

Thanks again!

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What does one do about the extra row of pins (#s1-4) on the Omron part, for which there are no holes to accomodate in the PCB? The old DEC brand part looks like it had the row, too, but the pins appear sheared off at the casing.

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I snip 'em off with small diagonal cutters tight to the relay, then get them perfect with a sanding roll on the dremel. It makes very short work of it.
 
I really like my little 40w KA5700 and its big bro KA 7100 60watter kenwoods.
Very good sounding amps both.

I passed on at KA 6100 local here recently. Probably will add that or KA 7100 later. Have a pristine Pioneer SA-8500II acquired a few months ago want to tackle first. Next Kenwood target might be a receiver in the 45-60 watt range. Don't have a Kenwood receiver yet. Only Pioneers. Thinking KR 5030, 6030, 5600, 6600. What model from among these or other would be your druthers?
 
When I solder them in, I bend one pin on opposite corners to hold it in place and solder all of the pins I didn't bend. Then I straighten the 2 pins I bent and solder those so the next guy won't have to fight with bent pins.

The 6600. It has a better build quality than the x0x0 line. 56 underrated WPC - excellent receiver, built like a brit shick house. From what I've dealt with, the X600 line is my favorite.
 
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Ha. That's genius. I was thinking of all kinds of jury-rigging to hold the part in place tight-to-the-board until I got the first couple pins soldered.
 
A small one of these does wonders for holding pins/leads while you solder. No bending, no BS.

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Thank you @Spenser!

Quick questions:

1) Where did you purchase your 5A Fast Blow fuses from?
2) Where would you recommend to purchase lamps from? The Stanley 8V .3A Stanley's are unobtainum bulbs. Suggestions would be great.

Mouser order completed. Looking forward to the project.
 
I did a 5700 a short time ago, an ebay basket-case so I elaborated as I pleased. I went LED on the meter lights

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this is a led license plate lamp from autozone etc, with the led module cut off the base. It ended up being a lot of fiddling something more like 12v is needed- I pushed on thru with a voltage doubler etc to make it work. Nice and bright but next time I'd go for ganging up a small array of white led's and a suitable resistor. Really like led's for this kind of thing because they're cheap, bright and don't get hot OTOH the spectrum is very different than an incandescent bulb.
 
Well, to be honest my tuner KT-5500 is the one in need of bulbs!

I had ordered some 8V 300ma LEDS for the tuner, wedge style from a reputable AK member. I installed them about a month ago and one has burned out already. I had two festoon types with the same specs and put those in series. I noticed that on the dial side LED, the voltage was reading 12v with the LED being very dim and the other two were 8V and bright. Secondary winding to the board is 25v so I'm not sure what happened.
 
@gort69 suggested the #192 automotive T3 bulb but I think they're 12V, so will be a bit dimmer,... I'm open to suggestions.
 
12v led automotive bulbs may not light at all on 8v- thats what sucked me into the voltage doubler. OTOH if on 25v then a series resistor will be needed, likewise 8v rated led bulbs probably have an integral resistor but will need an extra one if running on 12v. The win with using 2 led's is you can put them in parallel with opposed polarities, less flicker on an AC supply. Naturally, same polarity & resistor adjustment if on a DC supply....
 
12v led automotive bulbs may not light at all on 8v- thats what sucked me into the voltage doubler. OTOH if on 25v then a series resistor will be needed, likewise 8v rated led bulbs probably have an integral resistor but will need an extra one if running on 12v. The win with using 2 led's is you can put them in parallel with opposed polarities, less flicker on an AC supply. Naturally, same polarity & resistor adjustment if on a DC supply....

I think I might go with the 12V or 14V incandescent which is the #192 and #168 respectively,... I think Sylvania and others make them in pairs for cheap.

I thoroughly liked the light blue look and cool white colors on the tuner meters and dial, but I think that the very first 8V LED in series was seeing 12V,... too high of voltage. I remembered smelling some heat/odor coming off of it when I first installed it. That's probably the reason why the bulbs were burnt out in the first place from the voltage fluctuation. Please correct me if I am wrong on this,... still learning.
 
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