Any automechanics in the house today?

I bought a kit to fix Ford threads in the head for spark plugs, it was about $400 If you are not that serious I would bring it to a mechanic, don't bother taking the plug out in your driveway. You would then need to get it towed.

Mechanic can most likely fix it for cheaper than the kit cost.
 
Anti seize to prevent future problems.... even if it does alter the torque spec a bit.

It's more than a little bit in most cases. I've often seen 25% - 40%, one suggested up to 60% with certain types.

This from NGK:

PLEASE NOTE:

  • Torque recommendations are for spark plugs with new gaskets.
  • If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.
  • NGK has created their recommendations based on the general consensus of most engine manufactures. In the case of a discrepancy between the plug manufacturer and engine manufacturers recommendations, always default to the engine manufacturer.

Note the whole bit about reducing torque applies beyond spark plugs, although that is the topic at hand.
 
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I have a 04 Colorado and factory plugs are Iridium tipped and are supposed to be good for 100-120 thousand miles. I changed mine at 90,000 and were pretty much done. I would recommend staying with the AC Delco or Denso plugs I know a couple people that tried Autolite and Bosch when I worked in parts and there engines had problems with detonation. If it really does not want to budge bring it to a good mechanic not a dealership they will just want to sell you a new head if the threads are gone. Good luck and hope you get this squared away.
 
I'd second (or third) the suggestion of a proper thread penetrant. WD-40 isn't any good for this.

Also heat cycle the motor. Try removing it both hot and cold. Some times you'll get lucky and the head and plug will expand or contract at different rates.

Sounds like it might be cross threaded. Ugh.

Add me to the list of people who use anti-seize on the threads.

bs
 
This all sounds like broken treads in the Aluminum head (or steel threaded insert) as they are binding both directions. It is stuck in the threads of the spark plug and it binds against the good thread it needs to travel on. Hell if it's a threaded insert it can be breaking away from the aluminum casting or it will only rip out all the other threads trying to get it out. Leave it alone, if you got the plug reseated your already lucky.

Really the only correct way to fix it is pulling the head, drilling out the plug and or insert or both, re-instal a new threaded insert, put the head back on.
 
If the cylinder is firing i.e. no misfires. Then just leave it. If it were me and I had to get it out I would put a impact gun on it. reduced power. The shocking might be what it needs. It could also bust out threads. Whoever put it in last may have just over tightened it.
As it is said.... if it aint broke dont fix it.
 
When I was a young guy I had a car whose oil filter was absolutely stuck. My dad, who was an expert mechanic, told me to take it to the gas station mechanic for an oil change "they deal with that stuff all the time". Did it and they never said a word about the stuck filter.
 
Much as it sucks, I just admitted defeat on car repair for my GF.

HVAC blower stopped working. Found OE service manual online and eliminate a few item following the troubleshooting flow chart.

I believe it is most likely the fan amplifier (which is basically a PWM driven switch). However, to confirm and or replace it requires removal. That requires a contortionist, removal of several non-related parts just to get to it, and patience. My back won't handle the contortionist aspect and that will contribute to an issue with patience. So, the dealer will get to do this repair. I expect a $400-$500 bill to replace the $80 part.
 
How'd the other plugs look that you were able to remove? If they didn't look that bad then I'd leave the stuck one alone. I know flat rate mechanics that also leave those hard to get at and stuck plugs in quite often to.
 
This is why you should put anti-seize on the threads whenever you replace plugs.

I would try soaking it in PB blaster overnight, then try working it back and forth 1/2 a turn with a breaker bar.
 
This is why you should put anti-seize on the threads whenever you replace plugs.

I would try soaking it in PB blaster overnight, then try working it back and forth 1/2 a turn with a breaker bar.
I'm 65 and been changing plugs forever without any form of lube.
 
I'm 65 and been changing plugs forever without any form of lube.

I'm right up there with you in age and use anti-seize. Why? I worked in an engine shop for 30 years and fixed a lot of bad spark plug threads. Had to do a house call and do one a couple weeks ago. It makes sense to lubricate any thread. Manufacturers of any high-quality fastener that needs to be stretched correctly will give instructions on what lubricant to use. Spark plugs have a history of galling in aluminum heads and tearing the threads out when being removed. The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" has never been more true in this case.
 
I've always used anti-seize on plug threads because I've always had cars with aluminum heads. In general, torque specs for anything are never dry because they'd be worthless. Dry torque on fasteners can be all over the map. Spark plugs, however, are plated with something to reduce friction a bit and AFAIK, the torque specs are usually with a film of motor oil. I can see reducing the spec a bit with anti-seize, plus most people over-tighten them. IMO, you should always use a torque wrench.
 
Much as it sucks, I just admitted defeat on car repair for my GF.

HVAC blower stopped working. Found OE service manual online and eliminate a few item following the troubleshooting flow chart.

I believe it is most likely the fan amplifier (which is basically a PWM driven switch). However, to confirm and or replace it requires removal. That requires a contortionist, removal of several non-related parts just to get to it, and patience. My back won't handle the contortionist aspect and that will contribute to an issue with patience. So, the dealer will get to do this repair. I expect a $400-$500 bill to replace the $80 part.

Neighbor up the road once was working on the ignition and other switches under the dash of his 57 Fairlane. After about 4 hours i told him to get out of there. he was 62. I help him up. He gets up has a smoke & seemed fine. Next morning he had a blood clot that had somehow stopped blood flow to the heart. He was dead before he hit the ground. Car is still in the back garage....
 
All my motorcycles have aluminum heads and never a problem. Took out the plugs on my Norton race bike more times than I can count. Owned it 45 years and raced it weekly.
 
^^^ Your bikes are most likely garage kept and not exposed to weather and as many heat cycles as your typical grocery-getter. Taking the plugs out frequently is probably better than leaving them in for over 100,000 miles. I would guess 99 out of a hundred plug changes done at the local garage go smoothly. Chances are every one of us will go our entire life without ever having a problem. All that being said, using anti-seize on plugs, as well as exhaust bolts, even lug nuts, and any other part exposed to severe heat and/or moisture, will virtually eliminate dis-assembly failures down the road. Of course you need to tighten everything properly. Using the proper amount on the threads ONLY is another precaution.
Having rebuilt thousands of cylinder heads over the years I've learned a lot about sealants and lubricants. Water pump bolts are possibly the worst for snapping off during dis-assembly. Now days many water pumps come with new bolts and they have Teflon already on them. It is used as a sealer but also as a "non-stick" coating. It is some very slippery stuff, and as you mentioned, if using a torque wrench you better set it lower.
To use yet another colloquialism, "better safe than sorry" is my rule. You would die laughing if you knew how many broken bolts I had to fix from Harley shops that use red Loctite on almost every bolt.
I've had the same tub of anti-seize for 40 years and it's still half full but nearly every time I'm working on a car it's out with a tiny screwdriver that gets dipped in it.
But as always, do what works for you.
 
^^^ Your bikes are most likely garage kept and not exposed to weather and as many heat cycles as your typical grocery-getter. Taking the plugs out frequently is probably better than leaving them in for over 100,000 miles. I would guess 99 out of a hundred plug changes done at the local garage go smoothly. Chances are every one of us will go our entire life without ever having a problem. All that being said, using anti-seize on plugs, as well as exhaust bolts, even lug nuts, and any other part exposed to severe heat and/or moisture, will virtually eliminate dis-assembly failures down the road. Of course you need to tighten everything properly. Using the proper amount on the threads ONLY is another precaution.
Having rebuilt thousands of cylinder heads over the years I've learned a lot about sealants and lubricants. Water pump bolts are possibly the worst for snapping off during dis-assembly. Now days many water pumps come with new bolts and they have Teflon already on them. It is used as a sealer but also as a "non-stick" coating. It is some very slippery stuff, and as you mentioned, if using a torque wrench you better set it lower.
To use yet another colloquialism, "better safe than sorry" is my rule. You would die laughing if you knew how many broken bolts I had to fix from Harley shops that use red Loctite on almost every bolt.
I've had the same tub of anti-seize for 40 years and it's still half full but nearly every time I'm working on a car it's out with a tiny screwdriver that gets dipped in it.
But as always, do what works for you.
Some of us actually build cars and engines from the ground up, most are shade street weekend worriers.;)
 
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