Technics 1300 question

boybuick85

Active Member
I have a technics sl 1300 and recently i noticed that my records started to sound grainy and not as clear as before. So i went and did some process of elimination. I played various genres of music classical Latin jazz Arabic everything seemed muddled and grainy . When i switched over to cd though the sound was much cleaner and the same with the radio . I tried two different amps and a different phono stage. A rotel ra 970 bx which is a not so great candidate because it definitely has Fade Out On One Channel and overall just needs to be fixed but when it's in its sweet spot it sounds fine. The other was a pioneer sx 535. So what I'm wondering is could it possibly be the turntable I removed the headshell and needle pulled it out took a look , put it back in. could it be the RCA's??? Or something else

Been wanting to upgrade to a better table so I'm wondering if now is the time or is this a simple fix.
I have one more amp i could run it through but im really startimg to think its the table
 
The sl-1300 is a fine table. Most likely your stylus is worn or dirty. Get a piece of magic eraser and use the cue to set the stylus down onto it a few times to see if that helps. It may help to dampen the magic eraser if it's really dirty.
 
I really doubt it's the table, this whole line is known for being extremely well built. In fact, with the help of this forum I just got my most likely flood damaged sl-1500 running nicely.
 
OP your records are dirty not properly cleaned, you need a rcm and cleaning/rinsing fluids to get the dirt out of the record grooves. Just cleaning/changing the stylus isn't going to help. Nothing wrong with SL-1300.
 
The 1300/1400/1500 tables have a suspension that can wear out. There are plenty of issues that can be had in the automatic functions of the deck. I would double check that everything is functioning as it should, and then I would check the feet/ general suspension of turntable.

Many turntables have areas where vibration is added or absorbed. I wish there was a straight answer, but the 1300 can be a hammock of sound.
 
The sl-1300 is a fine table. Most likely your stylus is worn or dirty. Get a piece of magic eraser and use the cue to set the stylus down onto it a few times to see if that helps. It may help to dampen the magic eraser if it's really dirty.
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Well that's the weird part the stylus is fairly new at least from what the seller told me. I've only had it for a few months. I'll try the dry eraser trick sounds like a good idea. But you guys definitely don't think it could be the RCA's?? I cleaned the records with a part solution with isopropyl and water and then with ronsonol. Maybe it's the pressings. 'll give them another cleaning and try the dry eraser thing. Is there any way to clean the contacts on the head shell .
 
The 1300/1400/1500 tables have a suspension that can wear out. There are plenty of issues that can be had in the automatic functions of the deck. I would double check that everything is functioning as it should, and then I would check the feet/ general suspension of turntable.

Many turntables have areas where vibration is added or absorbed. I wish there was a straight answer, but the 1300 can be a hammock of sound.

Most of my automatic functions don't work where can I go to find that information on how to fix them??
 
Most of my automatic functions don't work where can I go to find that information on how to fix them??

I have found the Technics automatic and semi-automatic functions are honestly simple. If you take your deck apart, check the friction at each pivot with DeoxIt or the like, and then put it back together, commonly everything works.

The functions I've had issue with have never really not worked -- they have had experienced mechanical friction that they can't overcome in normal operation. The suspension can be a bit more to work out, but the semi-auto/ auto function fix is usually pretty easy.
 
Issues with RCA cables are humming, or signal cutting in and out, or no signal. Bad RCA's really can't cause any issues other than these.
 
The 1300/1400/1500 tables have a suspension ...

We would have to determine if it is an original SL-1300 or the Mk2. There is no suspension on the original. Regardless, it wouldn't account for 'grainy' sound.

... If you take your deck apart, check the friction at each pivot with DeoxIt or the like, and then put it back together, commonly everything works.

The functions I've had issue with have never really not worked -- they have had experienced mechanical friction that they can't overcome in normal operation ...

Not sure how you check friction with Deoxit, but that's an electrical contact cleaner, not a grease cleaner ... and while it may remove oil and grease it's a heck of an expensive way to perform such cleaning. Isopropyl alcohol is the way to go. And a light plastic-compatible grease to replace the black goo Technics used (seen references to it containing graphite). I find regular lithium grease too heavy and mostly use Labelle 106.

That being said, if it's a Mk2, then it most likely needs the cueing fixed, so no amount of cleaning, re-lube is going to solve failed auto functions.

Oddly enough I was just cleaning up a SL-1300 (original) last night. A few notes:

The cueing needed new silicone (300,000 cSt works well) ... and although all the auto functions worked, I spent quite some time cleaning. Hint ... watch out for small springs with little ball bearings! (I should have known ... they are shown in the service manual).

Cleaning requires desoldering the tonearm wires (and the micro switch leads, if you want to completely separate everything). I'm pretty sure cueing fluid could be done just by removing the tonearm base, but you'd still have to desolder.

Also the cueing (manual mode) can stop holding the tonearm up. The problem is a half-donut of rubber that provides friction to the plastic shaft of the cueing lever. Mine was working okay but visibly worn. Soaking the rubber in rubber-renew has significantly increased the 'grip'. Don't know how long that will last.


 
We would have to determine if it is an original SL-1300 or the Mk2. There is no suspension on the original. Regardless, it wouldn't account for 'grainy' sound.



Not sure how you check friction with Deoxit, but that's an electrical contact cleaner, not a grease cleaner ... and while it may remove oil and grease it's a heck of an expensive way to perform such cleaning. Isopropyl alcohol is the way to go. And a light plastic-compatible grease to replace the black goo Technics used (seen references to it containing graphite). I find regular lithium grease too heavy and mostly use Labelle 106.

That being said, if it's a Mk2, then it most likely needs the cueing fixed, so no amount of cleaning, re-lube is going to solve failed auto functions.

Oddly enough I was just cleaning up a SL-1300 (original) last night. A few notes:

The cueing needed new silicone (300,000 cSt works well) ... and although all the auto functions worked, I spent quite some time cleaning. Hint ... watch out for small springs with little ball bearings! (I should have known ... they are shown in the service manual).

Cleaning requires desoldering the tonearm wires (and the micro switch leads, if you want to completely separate everything). I'm pretty sure cueing fluid could be done just by removing the tonearm base, but you'd still have to desolder.

Also the cueing (manual mode) can stop holding the tonearm up. The problem is a half-donut of rubber that provides friction to the plastic shaft of the cueing lever. Mine was working okay but visibly worn. Soaking the rubber in rubber-renew has significantly increased the 'grip'. Don't know how long that will last.


Its not a mk2 its a base sl 1300. Thanks for all the info guys . As for the lighter fluid thing i dont think its that. I have used it many many times before. I learned it from a good friend of mine who has very expensive equipment and has been in this game for decades. A lot of the record stores here in NYC do it as well. not saying you gentle man are wrong just not sure if its that. The sound change happened after i let the table sit for a good month or so. But the weird part is that the needle is fairly new . Im going to try the magic eraser trick tonight.
 
New needle or not, a small glob of dust or dirt can get attached to the needle and you get the exact symptom you describe.

I cleaned a used record and didn't wait long enough after cleaning for it to fully dry. 1/2 of one side was enough to foul the needle enough that the distortion was louder than the music.

I cleaned the record again.
 
If you are not already a member at Vinylengine.com, sign up. Its free and you will have access to a lot of manuals for the SL1300.
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1300.shtml

As to the Lighter Fluid, I will say IMHO, I would not go that direction. If I found record stores in my area using it, I would stay away. Maybe I am wrong, and I know there are people that use weird stuff to clean records, I would not chance it. If you are going to get serious with a record collection, a Record Cleaning Machine is a great investment. I'm sure your friend with the Expensive Equipment has one as well.
 
I advised the owner of a local record store not to clean records with Windex and paper towels, after purchase myself and other customers will clean the records on our RCMs with commercial cleaning/rinsing fluids. Sticking by my assumption that the OPs records are dirty, lighter fluid would not be my choice for cleaning records.
 
I have cleaned neglected stylus, that I knew the diamonds were whiteish in color, that looked black. Aggressive swipes with the magic earser and stylus cleaning fluid were needed to clean them. I do not know if using Ronosol will dirty a stylus more rapidly.
 
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