New Project Kickin' A-- and Taking Names!

I finished sanding out the cabinets and primed the faces. I'll glue the faces to the cabinets then sand them flush together.

My wife thinks I should use a black stain rather than an oak or pecan. I decided to use flat head hex screws in black oxide. I'll cut a gasket out of cork on the laser.

DSC_0055_2_.JPG

DSC_0056_2_.JPG
DSC_00582.JPG
DSC_00574.JPG
 
I roughed out the backs today and will file/sand them for a nice fit.

I also cut cork gaskets for the 2251Js on the laser. There is a real trick to cutting cork in that it curls back on itself, blocks the beam, fouls the arm, etc. I ended up cutting the rings in two passes. In the first pass you erase the outter cut line from the file, cut out the center, and remove it from the machine without moving the cork.

Then you unerase the outter cut line and erase the inner circle to cut the gasket. Even this curls the thin cork a bit so the cut is not exact, but it still makes a nice gasket and will entirely be covered by the woofer frame.

I also tried to cut out a base for the Heils but found that my "acrylic" was actually 3/8" "polycarbonate" and this just made a mess, lots of smoke, and soot in the laser and the beam never even got through the material (60-watt laser run at "3 out of 100"). I'll have to get a piece of acrylic to do these.
 
Hey man,

They look stunning and stout, nicely done. I want a laser cutting rig! Any decisions yet on what color you're going to go with for the cabinets?

Biggles
 
After I spent the $$$ on golden oak, wife asked me to stain them in black. I could have used pine.

I have access to two Epilog Helix 60-watt machines (18" x 24") and a 40-watt Epilog Zing as well as wood and metal shops, 3D printer, auto shop, vinyl cutting, vacuum forming, electronics lab, etc. I belong to the Urban Workshop. Works like a gym membership.

http://urbanworkshop.net/equipment/
 
Urban Workshop, that's bloody cool as gosh. As far as the stain goes, sounds like you'll need to come up with another project to use it. Any thoughts to what's next?

Biggles
 
Looking good! Play with the Heil crossover point before locking in the crossover. I run the Heils on top of 350hz edgarhorns and to my ear any point lower than 5khz and it sounds too thin.
 
Thanks.

The intent is to cross them over at ~2,400 Hz using a 9-3/4" (JBL 2251J) between 240 Hz - 2,400 Hz, but we'll see.

I finished up one back and the fit was so good (i.e., tight), that when I removed it, it chipped. Figures!
 
Filled the chip with glue and sanded it out, finished the other back, and put them in.

At this point, I'll mask off the oak, and prime and paint the backs in place to avoid this happening again. I'll just glue them in place and they won't be removable. (Speaker provides access with four Allen screws,) Then I'll do my drilling for the terminal cup with the backs in place.
 
I was able to fill the chip in to where it no longer shows on the back.

I've decided to try to make clear acrylic "grills" to go around the Heils to show them off. Sound "As Clear As Light" deserves a structure that lets you see where it is coming from. These will be something on the order of the Pioneer HPM 200, but completely different using alternating pieces of stacked acrylic for the front/rear and sides.

I'll have to determine how much acrylic is necessary and if it is worth the attempt.
 
My wife thinks I should use a black stain rather than an oak or pecan. I decided to use flat head hex screws in black oxide.

DSC_0055_2_.JPG

DSC_0056_2_.JPG
DSC_00582.JPG
DSC_00574.JPG

Todd, this is one of those cases where you engage Husband-To-Wife strategy #17, to wit:

"Oh, gosh, Honey. Did you really say that you preferred a black stain? I must have been distracted or something. I just don't remember you saying that. Well, it's too late now that (whatever) stain is already on them and coated with poly. Darn it. I'm sorry, hon. I don't know why I forgot that you wanted black. How 'bout I take you out to eat tonight?"

GeeDeeEmm
 
Already bought the black and it will go with the other stuff better anyway.

I finished the two cabinet's exterior rough sanding to get them both to the same size (<.01" variation between them) and will need to finish sand them after gluing on the baffle boards. The baffles are in primer.

After glueing them together and sanding it all smooth, I'll mask the cabinets, paint the baffles in black, then mask the baffles and stain the cabinets. Then I'll paint the backs in black, drill them out for the terminal cups, and glue them in place.

I've designed the Heil "enclosure" in CAD and have the laser reserved for tomorrow to cut the bases and may try to make each enclosure piece to check fit if I have some spare acrylic.
 
The UltraTouch all got taken back to the local Home Depot. There is a lesson to be learned here!

Want free shipping from HD on-line??? Order enough stuff to quality for the free shipping, then take back what you don't really want to the local HD. Sure you're are inconvenienced by one trip, but if it's close, it's cheaper than the shipping costs.

Anyway, I cut the 3/8" acrylic bases and feet for the Heils today. Will be totally unique and not bad for $5 worth of materials with leftovers. :p

DSC_00541.JPG


I also cut the preliminary vanes for the enclosure but had no 1/16" acrylic so did them from wood. The front vanes need to have a bit of curve removed so they don't hang over the stands and the mount points need to be a little wider for better support. That's why we do up a prototype. These will be stacked like a fence to protect the Heil and an open top plate will be cut with a grill cloth attached to protect the Heil from dust.

Ya gotta love the CNC lasers and what they can do! :)

DSC_00555.JPG


Also painted the faces and backs in satin black today.
 
Last edited:
I glued the faces on and finished the rough sanding for the two cabinets. I'll need to repaint where the material that was removed from the sides/faces (~1/8" all around plus that portion of the box that extended beyond the faces). That's a lot of sanding and my hands and arms haven't been this tired since I was a teenager. :naughty:

I also need to stain the cabinets. I am trying to decide if I should do the paint up, or stain first. Probably stain. Opinions?

We are currently having strong Santa Ana winds, and any painting will have to wait.

Meanwhile, I think that I will mount the speakers and see if there is anything to be gained by going with open baffles. (Could be an epiphany!) This might be the better way to go with the Heils.

I can either just use a capacitor to block the bass, or set my speakers as "small" and let the Yamaha roll them off below 200 Hz and run them full range. Could be interesting.

DSC_00583.JPG
DSC_00594.JPG
 
OK..., got some RTA screen shots showing the open vs closed back with the 2251Js in ~1/2 cu ft cabinets. The only filtering being used is a 33.6 mfd cap inline with the positive terminal and the speaker is set to "large."

The microphone was placed inline between the two speakers at a distance of 2 meters on a tripod sitting on the couch cushion (legs in). "Close" micing was not performed because this defeats the purpose of the open back. No eq of any type is being used. Of course this does include the effects of the room.

The intent is to run these from ~250 to ~2,500 Hz.

Note that with the closed back, the frequency response "falls" as the frequency is reduced such that between 250 and 2,500 Hz there is a span of about 16 dB (i.e., -83 to -67 dB).

DSC_0006.JPG


But with the open back, the frequency response remains fairly flat dropping substantially below the crossover point, which is essentially what we want here. The span is reduced to about 9 dB (i.e., -74 to -65). The overall volume is also louder.

It is interesting that even though the closed back sounds like it has more bass, the open back must by responding with things/reflections in the room causing more deep bass. I am simply switching between the two speakers and recording the results without any provisions to equalize their volume. What you see is what the mic hears.

DSC_0005.JPG
 
I have found that while no back is better than having a full back..., having some back can produce a flatter bass response than no back. Therefore, I'll cut both backs down to two strips to go along the bottom to hold the terminal cup, and the top to match, leaving about 31.5 sq in in open. This is also roughly the area of the cone so we'll see how that goes.

Meanwhile, I pulled the other back off the other one and have each sitting on an L200/300 cabinet. These are wired with 35 mfd in series with the positive lead to the "B" speaker output though my speaker switcher that allows for volume matching. I actually have these turned down by ~8 dB according to the panel markings.

I'm loving it! If you look at the RTA plots you will see that the 2251Js have a nice little "bump" that fills in the gap left by the crossover between the 2235 and 2420. Then you get a near perfect natural rolloff to the 2405 with no electrial filter necessary! Vocals and cymbols become so much clearer, or there where they weren't before. I should have done this years ago.

Actually, I'm betting that the 2251J could easily replace the 2420/horn all together, go much lower, and would be smoother doing it. May just need to turn off the horns and give this a try.
 
Back
Top Bottom