Pioneer SPEC 2 restoration help
- Thread starter slipstream55
- Start date
Hmmm, right up my alley... used to restore them from eprey... the switching is gold contacts - NO ABRASIVES, and believe it or not - no deoxit.... gold doesn't corrode like that, use anhydrous isopoperol alcohol to clean them. MAYBE a slip of printer paper soaked with anh. IPA drawn through the contacts for some VERY mild abrasive effect.
IF you run into display channel switching and placement issues, it is usually NOT the switching integrated circuit, but rather switch contacts directly connected to the ic's outputs, some essential biases travel through the contacts and a dirty contact doesn't allow the bias through.
I actually stick with the 465b's in retrospect nowadays - very few rare integrated circuits, so I can keep mine going for a long long long time....
slipstream55
Active Member
Got in touch with a local business doing anodizing (Southwest Metal Finishing). They don't do nor know of anyone locally that does Type I anodizing with dye. They can do Type II, though, and there will be a small fee tacked on for stripping prior to anodizing if these heatsinks are already anodized. Roughly, $100. Probably a little less.
They did want to know what type of aluminum the SPEC-2 heatsinks are made out of. This seemed important to them as it determines what process they would use. Any ideas?
Thanks.
They did want to know what type of aluminum the SPEC-2 heatsinks are made out of. This seemed important to them as it determines what process they would use. Any ideas?
Thanks.
slipstream55
Active Member
Output Transistor related question
I'm back on this long-term project again for a while.
I have finally gotten around to disassembling the the Driver board/heatsink assemblies for this SPEC-2 in preparation for having the heatsinks anodized. I almost wish I hadn't. The mess gets worse but is cleanable. There is some spot rust on the barrier plate between the Driver board and heatsink. I'm not sure the best way to clean this yet.
While taking the output transistors off of the heatsink, I found not one, but two mica insulating wafers sandwiched between each of the 6 transistors on the heatsink. Is this typical and should I use 2 new ones for each transistor when re-assembling the heatsink assembly?
Also, the one heatsink assembly that had the hack job diode arrays in place of the STV-3H and STV-4H diode packs only used 3 diodes for each one.
The mounting screws used to secure these arrays were also mis-matched. 1 threaded screw for one array and what looks like a small sheet metal screw for the other one.
I would really like to know who worked on this amplifier.
Anyway, I'll post a few pictures of the mess later for everyone's enjoyment. It's a perfect example of what repairs not to do to a SPEC-2. If this wasn't my amplifier and I wasn't so near to tears, I'd find some humor in all of this.
Later.
I'm back on this long-term project again for a while.
I have finally gotten around to disassembling the the Driver board/heatsink assemblies for this SPEC-2 in preparation for having the heatsinks anodized. I almost wish I hadn't. The mess gets worse but is cleanable. There is some spot rust on the barrier plate between the Driver board and heatsink. I'm not sure the best way to clean this yet.
While taking the output transistors off of the heatsink, I found not one, but two mica insulating wafers sandwiched between each of the 6 transistors on the heatsink. Is this typical and should I use 2 new ones for each transistor when re-assembling the heatsink assembly?
Also, the one heatsink assembly that had the hack job diode arrays in place of the STV-3H and STV-4H diode packs only used 3 diodes for each one.
The mounting screws used to secure these arrays were also mis-matched. 1 threaded screw for one array and what looks like a small sheet metal screw for the other one.
I would really like to know who worked on this amplifier.
Anyway, I'll post a few pictures of the mess later for everyone's enjoyment. It's a perfect example of what repairs not to do to a SPEC-2. If this wasn't my amplifier and I wasn't so near to tears, I'd find some humor in all of this.
Later.
It wasn't ME..... (and I don't know who, either)
That said, you REALLY DON'T want to know..... you might do something rash.....
slipstream55
Active Member
Ah....you're right. I would.
slipstream55
Active Member
Time to drag this thread out of the closet for awhile
Well, it seems like my restoration project is going to be very long term. I just got thru a very hard C++ programming class and had time to get the SPEC 2 heatsinks re-anodized. I think they came out very well. I got the driver boards cleaned up and ready for recapping and transistor change-outs. Now, between having to re-do a sprinkler system in the backyard (AZ heat and caliche is killing me) and another fairly long, work-related road trip, the driver board work is going to have to be post-poned again.
Anyway, I have posted some before/after pictures of the heatsinks. SPEC 2 re-work does continue but slowly.
Cheers
Well, it seems like my restoration project is going to be very long term. I just got thru a very hard C++ programming class and had time to get the SPEC 2 heatsinks re-anodized. I think they came out very well. I got the driver boards cleaned up and ready for recapping and transistor change-outs. Now, between having to re-do a sprinkler system in the backyard (AZ heat and caliche is killing me) and another fairly long, work-related road trip, the driver board work is going to have to be post-poned again.
Anyway, I have posted some before/after pictures of the heatsinks. SPEC 2 re-work does continue but slowly.
Cheers
Attachments
SPEC 2 Problem
Dear Echowar and other, I have bought a US Spec 2 Version Amplifier. As a European citizen I need to replace the powercoil transformer to a 220 Volt type. The secondary windings are the same as for the US version. For the primary side there are 5 wires, White and Brown for the United States and Yellow, Orange and Red presumably for Europe. Does anybody know what wires to use for 220 Volt. Does the Surge Current Relay also need to be replaced or can it handle 220 Volt in stead of the 120V. Do the connected capacitors and resisitors for the primary surge circuit need to be changed?
The Spec 2 Amplifier was left switched on by the previous owner without music and apparently it burned out after some hours. Does anybody have any hints what might be the cause and where to start looking? Does it seem wise to start debugging without the 6 Power Transistorsemulate the powertransitors with diodes between base and emitter (I have set of matched power transisters but would first like to be sure before hooking them up to the curcuit boards).
Dear Echowar and other, I have bought a US Spec 2 Version Amplifier. As a European citizen I need to replace the powercoil transformer to a 220 Volt type. The secondary windings are the same as for the US version. For the primary side there are 5 wires, White and Brown for the United States and Yellow, Orange and Red presumably for Europe. Does anybody know what wires to use for 220 Volt. Does the Surge Current Relay also need to be replaced or can it handle 220 Volt in stead of the 120V. Do the connected capacitors and resisitors for the primary surge circuit need to be changed?
The Spec 2 Amplifier was left switched on by the previous owner without music and apparently it burned out after some hours. Does anybody have any hints what might be the cause and where to start looking? Does it seem wise to start debugging without the 6 Power Transistorsemulate the powertransitors with diodes between base and emitter (I have set of matched power transisters but would first like to be sure before hooking them up to the curcuit boards).
Last edited:
Petrus, Welcome to AK.
There are many helpful individuals on this site. So that they have a better idea of who they are helping, take the time to introduce youself and start your own thread so that you're not "hijacking" someone elses. In the long run, your new thread will likely help others.
There are many helpful individuals on this site. So that they have a better idea of who they are helping, take the time to introduce youself and start your own thread so that you're not "hijacking" someone elses. In the long run, your new thread will likely help others.
Yes, and please leave your email address out of actual posts - spambots crawl all over the web, harvesting email addresses to bomb with spam. The email address can be entered in the user cp and still kept private while being utilized. Plus there are P(rivate)M(essages).
In fact you can edit your post and remove the email address, and I for one suggest you do so.
In fact you can edit your post and remove the email address, and I for one suggest you do so.
slipstream55
Active Member
Update:
Well, I’m back at it again. This restoration is turning into one, longgggg project.
I wasn’t sure which thread I have started related to this project in which to continue with updates and questions as there are a few, so I chose the original one, “Pioneer SPEC 2 restoration help”. There has been so much information and so many helpful suggestions and discussions spread across these threads from AK members that I felt the need to reference them as I have done below:
Pioneer SPEC 2 restoration help
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-spec-2-restoration-help.148523/
SPEC 2 Filter Cap Purchase Source
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spec-2-filter-cap-purchase-source.751371/
SPEC 2 Restoration - How do I dis-assemble?
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?posts/11206716/
Protective component sleeving for Pioneer restorations
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/protective-component-sleeving-for-pioneer-restorations.797675/
SPEC 2 Zener Diode Info
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spec-2-zener-diode-info.792342/
SPEC 2 Reed Relay Question
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spec-2-reed-relay-question.225863/
These threads provide some background history on this particular SPEC 2 restoration as well as covering questions related to parts information/substitutions, component part number deciphering, chassis dis-assembly and painting, wiring, maintaining the “Pioneer” look and much more. I hope the information found in the threads listed above is as helpful to other AK members as it has been for me.
That said…I am spending part of my week-end changing out caps and small transistors on the AWH-045 Power Amplifier Board assemblies. Both boards got the required IPA brush down that successfully removed some of the grime that had accumulated on the boards and components over years of abuse and improper storage. I have followed EchoWars suggestion to swap polarity on the C4 cap so that the positive lead is connected to ground. My service manual shows the correct orientation for this cap but the board silkscreen and the physically installed cap were incorrect.
Components slated for replacement:
Right Hand Board (before re-work):
Left Hand Board (before re-work):
C4 Cap original installation (notice both C4 and C6 caps are a little "bulgy"):
The board jumpers (there are 11 of them) are also getting replaced with like AWG, white insulated wire jumpers as most of them are showing signs of corrosion and tarnish.
Can anyone tell me if the C1 cap needs to be replaced as part of the recap process (see picture)?
I hope to have all of the new caps, small transistors and jumpers for both boards changed out by Sunday. The heat sink mounted transistors, diodes, pots(3) and relays (yes, both of them) will be swapped out next.
The top, bottom and both side panels are soon off to the local powder coat paint guy for a much needed re-do.
Top Panel (before paint):
Bottom Panel (before paint):
Side Panels (before paint):
That's all for now. Until next time....
Well, I’m back at it again. This restoration is turning into one, longgggg project.
I wasn’t sure which thread I have started related to this project in which to continue with updates and questions as there are a few, so I chose the original one, “Pioneer SPEC 2 restoration help”. There has been so much information and so many helpful suggestions and discussions spread across these threads from AK members that I felt the need to reference them as I have done below:
Pioneer SPEC 2 restoration help
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-spec-2-restoration-help.148523/
SPEC 2 Filter Cap Purchase Source
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spec-2-filter-cap-purchase-source.751371/
SPEC 2 Restoration - How do I dis-assemble?
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?posts/11206716/
Protective component sleeving for Pioneer restorations
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/protective-component-sleeving-for-pioneer-restorations.797675/
SPEC 2 Zener Diode Info
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spec-2-zener-diode-info.792342/
SPEC 2 Reed Relay Question
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/spec-2-reed-relay-question.225863/
These threads provide some background history on this particular SPEC 2 restoration as well as covering questions related to parts information/substitutions, component part number deciphering, chassis dis-assembly and painting, wiring, maintaining the “Pioneer” look and much more. I hope the information found in the threads listed above is as helpful to other AK members as it has been for me.
That said…I am spending part of my week-end changing out caps and small transistors on the AWH-045 Power Amplifier Board assemblies. Both boards got the required IPA brush down that successfully removed some of the grime that had accumulated on the boards and components over years of abuse and improper storage. I have followed EchoWars suggestion to swap polarity on the C4 cap so that the positive lead is connected to ground. My service manual shows the correct orientation for this cap but the board silkscreen and the physically installed cap were incorrect.
Components slated for replacement:
Right Hand Board (before re-work):
Left Hand Board (before re-work):
C4 Cap original installation (notice both C4 and C6 caps are a little "bulgy"):
The board jumpers (there are 11 of them) are also getting replaced with like AWG, white insulated wire jumpers as most of them are showing signs of corrosion and tarnish.
Can anyone tell me if the C1 cap needs to be replaced as part of the recap process (see picture)?
I hope to have all of the new caps, small transistors and jumpers for both boards changed out by Sunday. The heat sink mounted transistors, diodes, pots(3) and relays (yes, both of them) will be swapped out next.
The top, bottom and both side panels are soon off to the local powder coat paint guy for a much needed re-do.
Top Panel (before paint):
Bottom Panel (before paint):
Side Panels (before paint):
That's all for now. Until next time....
slipstream55
Active Member
A question for you AK restoration guys...
Is there any reason why the US Relays substitute relay for RL1 on the Power Amp board can't be soldered in via the two outer contacts (they would need to be dog legged a bit) and the two inner contacts have pigtail leads attached and soldered directly to the board via the board thru-holes? Thanks.
Is there any reason why the US Relays substitute relay for RL1 on the Power Amp board can't be soldered in via the two outer contacts (they would need to be dog legged a bit) and the two inner contacts have pigtail leads attached and soldered directly to the board via the board thru-holes? Thanks.
slipstream55
Active Member
Update:
I just got the SPEC panels back from a local powder coat shop. I am impressed. Here are some before and after pictures:
Before:
After:
Looks like I hit my picture limit. Bottom panel pictures will follow in my next post.
I just got the SPEC panels back from a local powder coat shop. I am impressed. Here are some before and after pictures:
Before:
After:
Looks like I hit my picture limit. Bottom panel pictures will follow in my next post.
slipstream55
Active Member
And the bottom panels:
Apparently, this guy was dropped at some point. Notice the foot indent in the pictures. I did attempt to flatten it a little but it really stands out after paint. Hopefully, it won't be too noticeable after the feet are re-installed.
That's all until next time.
Apparently, this guy was dropped at some point. Notice the foot indent in the pictures. I did attempt to flatten it a little but it really stands out after paint. Hopefully, it won't be too noticeable after the feet are re-installed.
That's all until next time.
part number: HE129-ND
wouldn't that mean drilling holes?
I'm drooling looking at those pictures.
slipstream55
Active Member
Hi, Mark.
Back in 2008, when the US Relays Z535 was being phased out, I managed to buy a handful of the Z532 relays (branded EAC SD1A24A) from Digikey. I can tweak the relay legs and get them to fit in the existing thru-holes. See photos. No hole drilling required. I can eek out a little more leg length for a better thru-hole solder connection by adjusting the center pigtails a little closer to the relay body. I'm using 24AWG wire-wrap wire for the pigtails. I have found the jacket on wire-wrap wire to be a lot more tolerant to heat than other wire types. I was curious if anyone has tried to mount the relay in this fashion.
slipstream55
Active Member
Update:
RL1 and RL2 are now installed on both Amp boards.
There was just enough lead length poking thru the pads to make a nice solder connection.
Both boards with relays installed.
I'll post pictures of the RL2 install next.
RL1 and RL2 are now installed on both Amp boards.
There was just enough lead length poking thru the pads to make a nice solder connection.
Both boards with relays installed.
I'll post pictures of the RL2 install next.
slipstream55
Active Member
RL2 installation. The legs of the Elec-trol relay had to be tweaked similar to RL1.
It was a nice clean fit.
There's just enough lead poking thru to make a good solder connection.
Up next is the completion of the transistor install (after I order the mica insulators for the two transistors on the large center heat sink. Some how I over-looked those guys when I ordered parts) and the diode swap out.
That's all for now.
It was a nice clean fit.
There's just enough lead poking thru to make a good solder connection.
Up next is the completion of the transistor install (after I order the mica insulators for the two transistors on the large center heat sink. Some how I over-looked those guys when I ordered parts) and the diode swap out.
That's all for now.
