Help me figure out the hard start problem on my 99 Maxima

Yes, that's correct. There is coolant that runs through this section and will leak onto the idle sensor unit and will short out the ECM gradually. It will act erratically with RPM jump then finally stall out.

Well I'll be-- you're absolutely right:

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Just never paid any attention to it before.

Pic of my odometer just for kicks :D:

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What's really amazing is that ALL the electrics still work- all power windows, door locks, sunroof, everything.
 
No, it's not the MAF sensor, it's a separate sensor that takes readings of the air temp inside the intake just before the air filter chamber:


Mass air flow sensor is on top of the throttle body intake as he mentions in the video.


That guy has got great videos. I used his strut video,... right on the money! :thumbsup:
 
Well I'll be-- you're absolutely right:

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Just never paid any attention to it before.

Pic of my odometer just for kicks :D:

View attachment 1121452

What's really amazing is that ALL the electrics still work- all power windows, door locks, sunroof, everything.

I've never been a Nissan guy but my pop was and he loved his I30. I hope, I get a few more years and miles out of her. Motor is bulletproof just keep an eye on the coolant level with it.
 
I've never been a Nissan guy but my pop was and he loved his I30. I hope, I get a few more years and miles out of her. Motor is bulletproof just keep an eye on the coolant level with it.


I used to be a Honda guy through and through- and I kind of still am- but I got this car for $300 with about 350,000 miles on it and was amazed how well it ran and that every single thing still worked on it. My bigggest issue with the Hondas I've owned is that electrics started failing around 150,000 miles. Engines were built like tanks though, and I absolutely adore their manual trannies.
 
Me too,...
Had a ton of Accords:
'86
'90
'92
'94
'03

Then I bought a '93 Toyota XCab 4WD Toyota P/U with a 22RE motor, 5sp,... great truck.

I'm a firm believer in:

Toyota-logo-png-file-full-hd.png
 
I know with older Fords, if that intake air temp sensor is jacked it won't start right. Possible thats the issue or part of it. They're just a thermocouple, should be able to read the output and see if it makes sense.

Some other vehicles get stupid if the fuel pump check valve or the fuel pump isn't working properly. If the fuel system doesn't pump up to pressure quickly enough it cranks for a long time until it finally goes. A pressure tester on the rail would tell you. No idea what is the proper pressure but if it takes a long time to come up, thats probably not normal.
 
I know with older Fords, if that intake air temp sensor is jacked it won't start right. Possible thats the issue or part of it. They're just a thermocouple, should be able to read the output and see if it makes sense.

Some other vehicles get stupid if the fuel pump check valve or the fuel pump isn't working properly. If the fuel system doesn't pump up to pressure quickly enough it cranks for a long time until it finally goes. A pressure tester on the rail would tell you. No idea what is the proper pressure but if it takes a long time to come up, thats probably not normal.

I actually checked the intake air temp sensor using the method in the video I posted above, and it worked as it was supposed to. Also as I said earlier, I can have the climate control run a self-diagnostic which includes checking that sensor, and it reads fine. But it probably would only cost a few bucks for me to buy another intake air temp sensor from a yard and try it.
If it was the fuel pump, or really anything fuel-related, wouldn't the car not run right after starting? it runs perfect after finally starting up.
 
My bigggest issue with the Hondas I've owned is that electrics started failing around 150,000 miles. Engines were built like tanks though, and I absolutely adore their manual trannies.
Interesting--I have two that are well over 150,000 (one is 240k, the other 290k at 21 years old) and neither has had any electrical issue. Neither did my long-departed '88 Accord and '92 Civic. Our Acura did...but only because it died in a flood. Tried to start it after three days (where it had been stranded) but things were just too shorted out to work anymore. Prior to that, I think it had around 215k on it and everything still worked. (I miss that V6.) I've had the occasional sensor go bad, or replaced worn out coils and burned out bulbs, but at the advanced age/mileage, that's to be expected.
 
Interesting--I have two that are well over 150,000 (one is 240k, the other 290k at 21 years old) and neither has had any electrical issue. Neither did my long-departed '88 Accord and '92 Civic. Our Acura did...but only because it died in a flood. Tried to start it after three days (where it had been stranded) but things were just too shorted out to work anymore. Prior to that, I think it had around 215k on it and everything still worked. (I miss that V6.) I've had the occasional sensor go bad, or replaced worn out coils and burned out bulbs, but at the advanced age/mileage, that's to be expected.

I'm talking about power windows, door locks etc going out. Annoying...
That said, I did buy a 2001 Accord 5 speed sedan brand new back then, had it for almost 10 years and put 210,000 miles on it, and everything except one power door lock still worked on it when I sold it.
The sweetest Honda I had was a 2007 Accord sedan with the V6 and the 6-speed manual, Honda only put that drivetrain in an Accord sedan for 2 years (2006 and 2007.) That car was SWEET and a blast to drive, but it sucked fuel like a syphon.

In fact, there's a video of it on YouTube that the dealer I bought it from posted before I bought it (Randy Kuehl Honda in Cedar Rapids IA):

 
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I threw a can of Seafoam into the Maxima today, didn't really make any difference. Someone figure this out for me for cheap and I'll give them my BSR portable CD player that I found at the thrift store :p
 
Fuel filter might be the next thing?

Thanks but as I mentioned in my first post I already changed it along with the fuel pump, back when it wouldn't start at all before I realized it was my immobilizer.
Again, this seems like it would affect the way the car runs as well. There is ZERO problem with the way the car runs after it has started. This is ONLY a starting issue.
I am sort of intrigued by gadget73's post above that some cars do not start right if the intake air sensor is jacked up. That may be my next step, since mine had come loose- although it seemed to test fine. But all this keeps seeming to point back to the ECM, about which how to fix I am clueless.
 
I had a car that suddenly started needing to crank a long time to get started.

It turned out to be a fuel pump relay. On this car it is in parallel (recalling from memory) with the low oil pressure switch during startup. When the relay stopped working it became necessary to crank the engine long enough for sufficient oil pressure to build up before it closed the fuel pump circuit to facilitate start.

It did not act weird during the cranking cycle though, other than being a long cranking cycle.
 
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Thanks but as I mentioned in my first post I already changed it along with the fuel pump, back when it wouldn't start at all before I realized it was my immobilizer.
Again, this seems like it would affect the way the car runs as well. There is ZERO problem with the way the car runs after it has started. This is ONLY a starting issue.
I am sort of intrigued by gadget73's post above that some cars do not start right if the intake air sensor is jacked up. That may be my next step, since mine had come loose- although it seemed to test fine. But all this keeps seeming to point back to the ECM, about which how to fix I am clueless.


OK, sorry about that,... I failed to go back to your first post and read about that,...my bad.

The ECM is pretty easy to pull in that vehicle. Behind the main console, on the floor, 4 screws then disengage the harnass.

Pretty sure the chip is this one. I'd check and see if it's burnt, odd looking or bulging,...

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-NEW-ST...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
No doubt, it's an electrical/electronic problem most likely related to the ECM. You could put in an aftermarket ECM like the affordable Megasquirt (depends where you are because of emissions testing though this unit could be carefully tuned to any requirements by yourself with some time) which won't have the security system etc most likely causing the problem.
 
It wouldn't hurt to test the coolant temperature sensor while you are at it. The one in my mom's VW went bad, and it acted very similar.
 
One way to maybe bypass that possible problem (temp sensor) is to plug the block heater in (if you have one) for several hrs. till the block is well warmed up. You shouldn't then need any cold start aids (like enriched fuel injection sensed by the coolant temp sensor) to start it then. If you don't have a block heater you could throw a small ceramic 750/1500W heater under the hood or under the front of the car (for the same effect) with a blanket or old comforter over the hood followed by a full tarp to keep the heat in.
 
Thanks everyone!! The yard wants $5 for the air intake sensor so I'll grab one of those and see what happens, at least it will eliminate that as being an issue. I'll also test the coolant temp sensor. I don't have a block heater. I might see if a neighbor has a ceramic heater I could borrow to test that as stated above - or maybe just grab another one of those sensors as well while at the salvage yard.
But I am tending to agree with it being an ECM issue- I'll get in there and pull it out and see if I see anything wierd with the chip pictured above.
Thanks again all
 
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