Marantz Service Manual error thread

2252 serial 0041970

Service manual and Schematic from hifi-E.

issue 1: P200 tuner board

C307, is listed as a polarized .22uf 50V cap between pins 10/11 of the HA1196

found instead .22uf BP 50V electrolyte

using the 'replace what I found' methodology, I dipped into my tube radio stuff and used a .22uf 50v poly cap.

Issue 2: P700 Main Amp board

in the center of the SCM is the relay protection circuit.

You will note that the screen print lists C730 and C731 which are NO WHERE on the SCM. The SCM lists C722 twice.

IN this instance the C722 220uF-10v is really C731 on the screen print

and C721 in the SCM that is 47uF-16V is really C730 on the screen print.

Orientations are correct however so replace as found.
 
Marantz 2215
Tuner MPX board P400
Capacitor C414, 33uf, 6.3V (service manual lists it as a 10V)

BOTH the silk screen on the board AND the service manual board image are wrong.
Positive (+) is towards the inside of the board.
 
Marantz 2230 serial 152630

P400 board (tone) There are 2 .47-50v films at R418/R419 on the screen print that are NOT in the schematic from hifi-E

I replaced what I found with WIMA films.

The SCM on hifi-E does say there will be C416/C417 that are .47uf 25v polarized, but Ill be danged if I can find them.

Mebbe a missing rev from the hifi E doc? The SM and corresponding SCM *here* is the same.
 
8AEF5BFC-E4BB-4BDE-819E-CA34615A8DEA.jpeg Marantz 2252b . C701 (3.3uf) is installed backawards or silkscreen of cap or board is wrong? Someone please verify?
 

Attachments

  • 03556F26-6899-4425-A402-97302ABD9D75.jpeg
    03556F26-6899-4425-A402-97302ABD9D75.jpeg
    97.6 KB · Views: 17
View attachment 1193204 Marantz 2252b . C701 (3.3uf) is installed backawards or silkscreen of cap or board is wrong? Someone please verify?
If that's the way you opened it up with the original cap and it had been working, I'd say the silkscreen is wrong on the board. Also the cap doesn't look distressed, no bulge or leakage. If the unit has been working always install the way you found it. It's not uncommon to find a mistake like that.
 
Last edited:
1060 Phono Board Version

While this is not an error, it may be an interesting variation.

I was working on a Model 1060, serial #33986 this weekend and C901 and C902 on the phono board were Tantalum capacitors.

The copy of the service manual I have shows them as 1uf 25 volt electrolytic's but this may be meaningless due to all of the different production variations of the 1060.

The original Tantalum's measured 2.142uf on my LCR meter and I replaced them with 2.2uf 25 volt electrolytic caps.

I just found exactly the same on a 1060 l am working on, the tantalums are measuring 2.2uF so will replace with 2.2uF films. Thanks for the heads up ChrisMarantz.
 
Just repaired a 1060(e) amp. (S/N: 528709) with no sound from right channel.
With external signal supplied to Main-In RCA sockets the problem persisted so clearly had to be on the P700 board.
DC check on the pre-amplifying transistor H701 shows zero Volt on all pins so evidently it's not receiving any supply voltage through R709.
Voltage across C703, which is not short-circuited is also zero Volt, so problem must be further up the supply chain.
Here R707 is found to be 100% open.
Now about errors or production changes:
In the original schematic supplied with the amp. and on any other schematic and service-manuals I've seen for the 1060, the values for R707 is 18KOhm and for R709 is 5,6KOhm. Besides R759 8,2KOhm is present across C703.
In the real world R759 is absent, as shown on the attached P700 components layout.
Further more R707 is 33KOhm and R709 is 3,9KOhm.
-
A check on R708, the left channel counterpart for R707 showed it to be out of spec's at 44,5KOhm.
Clearly it was also far down the road to oblivion.
This made me think about possible causes for this resistor to go belly-up.
In this 1060 both resistors were covered with spilled glue used to fixate C703 & C704.
I've seen old glue become conducting and to heavily corrode component leads.
If this is actually the cause of the resistor failure, many 1060 amp's should be showing this problem around now.
A quick way to check for possible issues would be to measure the DC voltage at the upper ends of R707/R708.
Here you should find around +13V at volume fully down.
Half a Volt +/- is OK, but voltages should be similar within 0,5V.

Marantz 1060 019_r_.JPG 1060_P700-pcb.jpg 1060_P700-sch.JPG
 
Marantz 3300 pre-amp Tone board:

R322 is empty but the parts list shows 1 meg 1/4 watt
R317 is empty but the parts list shows 10K 1/4 watt
C305 and C315 are listed as 82pf but are actually 27pf
 
marantz 2220 manual error

pre-amp board

C503/504 Silk screen and manual show wrong orientation

Inventory has wrong value
Manual: 4.7 uf 35 v
From factory: 4.7 uf 50v

Just FYI ... mine is correct. C503/C504 are both screened correctly and correctly oriented in the manual. The + side goes to the emitter of H501 / H502.

EG0nqX2l.jpg


Tx5obFyl.jpg
 
The service manual for the SR4000 (from 1980 not the later AV receiver) has an error. On page 22 (23 of the pdf). Capacitors C801 and C802 are listed as 1,000 mF. That should be 10,000 mF.

I have several of these receivers and they come equipped with 10,000 mF capacitors. 1,000 mF is way too small for the bridge rectifier smoothing capacitors on an amp this size. This came to my attention when I got one of these receivers that someone had dutifully installed 1,000 mf caps in.
 
Marantz 2275 built in 1977- the power amp boards are slightly different than the commonly available manual & schematic show.

H710 is listed as a varistor (S3016R), part of the Vbe bias network. It isn't a varistor. It's a single silicon diode with a forward drop of 0.60 VDC @ 1 mA @ cool (61F) room temperature. It should be tucked under the heat sink of H713.

H719 isn't listed at all. It is a varistor (thermistor) with a resistance of 1230 ohms at 68F and 585 ohms at 100F. It should be easy to locate a replacement from those numbers, if necessary. I wouldn't try to replace it with diodes. It's in series with R747, also not listed, an 82 ohm resistor. The pair appears to be connected between the collectors of H711 and H712, also in parallel with the Vbe multiplier. The varistor rests against the heat sink of H711. Sort of a belt and suspenders means of thermal control. If you measure resistance between the collectors of H711 and H712 with a meter that doesn't turn on junctions (most modern DVMs not on diode check), you should see about 1500 ohms.

The power amps boards on this unit are YD2917003-5.

The 2275 FM alignment instructions are what appear to be the generic Marantz alignment instructions common to most of their similar FM front ends. IMO, the wording is confusing. They tell you to adjust the RF stages for lowest distortion, which wouldn't be possible at the low levels needed for good RF alignment, because the analyzer would read mostly noise. Nor can you reduce the RF signal level to the point where the audio levels decreases with the RF level- this is FM; it doesn't work that way- the signal just gets noisy. The RF stages should probably be peaked first, using as low a signal level as you can. Just adjust them for maximum on the signal strength meter. After that, touch up the distortion at a bit higher signal level using the same adjustments. BTW, you should install a short horizontal wire on the 19 kHz test point so you can clip a probe on it with the metal shield still in place.

The Marantz 2230 FM alignment instructions appear to be a bit off. On step 7 they say to measure J504, but it's under the discriminator cover. Go to the muting board right behind and use J564 instead- it's the same wire and right out in the open. Grab any handy ground, say J552. Next, in that same step, the discriminator has an offset and shouldn't be set to zero. The correct voltage appears to be 0.360 VDC, both for the no signal condition and center tuning. There may be slight variation unit to unit. For the separation adjustments one can probably ignore the subchannel peaking and just peak it on the regular stereo signal in the next sentence. The rest of the instructions seem to work fine. Thanks to catrafter for helping me sort this. Nowhere have I found instructions for adjusting the CN cap (often C103) that feeds back to the input of the single-gate front ends.

Do your AM alignment during the day when there's less external signal interference. Watch out for LED and CFL lighting, as they can generate a huge amount of background noise. If you sweep the AM IF, you have to do it quite slowly to see the true shape, just a couple Hz, or remove a filtering cap.


Im curious if you have a schematic that shows H719. I have 2 boards that have it but its not on the drawing. Im not sure if the H719 was an earlier version and if so, how many versions there are for the 2275 P 700 ?
 
Sorry, the unit wasn't mine. I would have downloaded the SM from hifiengine, but that's the only info I would have had. Anything else came from measurements at the bench or on the curve tracer.
 
I have two different schematics for Marantz 18 driver board. Both were downloaded from hifi engine. One has q1001 as PNP. The other has q1001 as NPN. Which one is correct?
 
I think I see a typo or inconsistency in the 1060 SM.

I was curious about the two small copper "choke coils" on the terminal strip underneath, near the two coupling caps:
  • Referenced as L003 and L004 in the first picture.
  • Referenced as L003 and L002 on the schematic and parts list in the back.
No big deal,
I'm curious what they do though. Mine are tucked up underneath the strip, in plastic sleeves.


Capture3.JPG

Capture2.JPG

Capture4.JPG
 
2240 s/n 10719J4

On P800 power supply, H802, driver for the 35v P/S it is listed in the SM as 2SC945Q or R

I found instead a 2SC1318R.

2SC945 we replace with KSC945'C' but a more kosher sub for the C1318 is the KSC1845(F)

I think you technically can go either way here however...

On Tone board PE01, CE21,22 are listed in the SM as 33Uf-50V. I found 3.3uf-50v

ETA: service manual from hifi-E in the adjustment section
(16 audio, step 4) after adjusting the idle, it wants you to check DCO again and give R762 a twist. problem is, there is no R762, replace that with R707 from step 2 and it should work pretty good.
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

Is this a manual error for 2215 and 2220:
upload_2019-2-5_15-4-24.png

how is bias of H802 done?

on the 2210 there is a 100K resistor in // with c808

thoughts?

robin
 
Back
Top Bottom