Man vs. Beast: CA-2010 restoration project

I am not sure how accurate my $22 tester is on ESR but other than the two out of the Sherwood all tantalums have read close to value in capacitance, just the esr resistance values read high.

Some people say why recap they can't hear a difference. Every unit I have recapped so far has yielded an appreciable improvement in fidelity and often a noticeable drop in the background noise level too.

If you get a hold of a lower power Yamaha amp of similar vintage keep that Nippon Chemicon KMH line in mind. They are the right type for some of them. No room to spare on the 610II.
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which 1N4004 shouild i get for the yamaha amps? the 1N4004T or 1n4004RL?
 
I usually go with the On which is the 1N4004G or 1N4004RLG, looks like the G are loose and the RLG are on tape coming off a large reel. Both are the same price at Mouser.

If you need a 1N4004 and have say 1N4007 on hand you should be able to use the latter, the higher end digit means it has a higher peak voltage it can handle. In this case 400 V vs 1000 V. Both rated 1 amp. Interestingly they are both the same price. Should be okay to be over on the voltage, don't want to be under.

On the Sansui 3000A they recommend the 1N4002 for a mod I am about to do but I have a number of 1N4007 I have been sitting on for a while.
 
When the energized relay's coil field collapses at power off. There is a high voltage pulse generated by the collapsing field. The flyback diode routes the pulse safely to ground.
 
oh good to know. it is not specifically for that flyback diode that i asked about, just want to have it at hand since there are a lot of (diodes equivalent to) this type of rectifier diode all over these amps and i see that many have replaced those in restoration projects. i ordered the nichicon filter cap and i have all but given up on the A-1.
 
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im replacing Lamps] with 12 volt LEDs that the seller says are drop in. but the cathode and anode are not marked so i dont know how to install them
 
they have these white jackets. what should i do with that? i believe the original lamps are not polarized but my LEDs are.
 
im replacing Lamps] with 12 volt LEDs that the seller says are drop in. but the cathode and anode are not marked so i dont know how to install them
If you wire them up and they don't work. Then swap the leads around.
 
they have these white jackets. what should i do with that? i believe the original lamps are not polarized but my LEDs are.
i know the polarity ofthe LEDs, im asking about the PCB. i dont need to diode test LEDs when you look at it, cathode is somewhat bigger and ticker inside the LED and that goes for every LED ive seen.
 
im asking about the PCB.
Use your multimeter. On DC volts. If you get a positive voltage your red test lead is connected to the +... If negative voltage then the red test lead is connected to the -...
 
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you do realize that the amp is in pieces and all pcbs are detached and there is no power suply and no power, right?
it what is the polarity on yours? i mean which side is positive? left or right, when you are facing the front of the amp
 
Look at the printed side of the lamp circuit board. The violet wire is connected to (-). Polarity is also indicated at the violet wire. Follow the trace over to the blue wire it will (-) as well. I have the 2010's power supply board disconnected.
 
Look at the printed side of the lamp circuit board. The violet wire is connected to (-). Polarity is also indicated at the violet wire. Follow the trace over to the blue wire it will (-) as well. I have the 2010's power supply board disconnected.
oh i see. that should take care of it. thanks.
 
do the old lamps come off the white jacket?

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off topic: i need to buy a sldering station. the one thati have is weller. it is good for the yamaha vintage amps, but i have some heavy ounce copper double sided modern pcbs that my sodler iron does not get hot enough for. si my desoldering alweays fails on those boards. i need at least 60w or maybe 70. weller or hakko?
 
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