Man vs. Beast: CA-2010 restoration project

the 10 and 100 nf wima caps are 250v and they are going to replace the 4 ceramic and 4 metal film nichnicon caps in the power supply board.

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the 0.1 nf metal film caps that were parallel with the diodes under those heatsinks actually measure exceptionally well but when they were on the pcb one of them measured as a diode so i took them out to make sure, once outside all of them measured close to 100micro but since they are out im thinking maybe i should replace.
 
darn is it the wrong type of cap? i noticed that i think the nichicon was caleld metal film cap but the wima is called metalized film cap. are they different?
 
I'm just poking my head in to say I've been lurking for a couple weeks because I'm doing a CA-2010 fix, myself. I'm going to wait until the unit is working again before changing it over to LED, but I'm not going to look for anything "drop in" off ebay. If I do the LED conversion before you finish yours, I'll post here and let you know what I did and how it worked out.

My unit had bad transistors: TR411 and TR409, and it overheated a connected resistor. I replaced the offending parts and recapped the main power board. Hopefully with recapping and replacing the transistors, the issue which caused it doesn't happen again! Haven't turned the unit back on yet. For now I'm still cleaning the switches and reassembling the boards. May upload and share my pictures on a new thread later, don't want to fully hijack yours. :)
 
I just slipped a pair of 22,000µf Gold Tunes in the one I did, same size.....Just had to elongate the slots in the circuit board....
Nice and easy....View attachment 1255017
i dont wanna cut through the board. so i guess i will have to cut the legs on the cap in half (its width not its height ofcourse.)
 
i dont wanna cut through the board. so i guess i will have to cut the legs on the cap in half (its width not its height ofcourse.)

I put those gold tunes in mine last week. Snipped the insides of the terminals, it slid right in.
 
thats what im doing but i only have a flimsy tiny wire cutter and these pins are beefy. real thick. gotta run to home depot.
 
i dont wanna cut through the board. so i guess i will have to cut the legs on the cap in half (its width not its height ofcourse.)
Why not, it only needs a very small amount of modification......it doesn't look horrible, looks like factory.....
 
Why not, it only needs a very small amount of modification......it doesn't look horrible, looks like factory.....
after what happened to my yamaha A-1 i dont want to even leave finger prints on these pcbs if i dont have to.
 
i would reach for my 4.5 inch angle grinder with 1mm disc and set to on the caps legs . please dont try this at home ... :D
just need a steady hand .
 
after what happened to my yamaha A-1 i dont want to even leave finger prints on these pcbs if i dont have to.
Zip zip with the Dremel and done.....I don't understand what the big deal is....But anyway you'll work a solution you're comfortable with...we all do things differently.
 
i have music in Class A mode!!!!

unit is off and in class A:
i turn it on, i hear just one click. i have good sound, smooth. channel imbalance (one channel is louder) which i have to assume is only due to bias voltages being off.
TP1 - TP2 voltage is zero and does not adjust! (according to the manual should be 300mV in class A mode)
TP1 - TP3 voltage does adjust but it does not go bellow 0.414v in one channel and does not adjust in the other. (should be ZERO)

unit is off in class AB (Normal) mode
i turn it on, both relays click at the same time (at the same instant) and they keep clicking every 5 seconds. every time the relays click all bias voltages go haywire inclusing the rail voltage across the filter caps. why would the class A relay click instantaneously with the protection relay? i dont get it.

the fact that i have uninterrupted clear music in class A but not in class AB, what does it mean? im thinking either something in the power supply board or i just have a wire or some connection wrong? any ideas? i need something to go on with? somewhere to start, i cant just keep randomly pulling compenets off and testing them. i have also gone through all wires 5 times so i need an idea, somewhere to start.

note: I have done extensive recapping in the function board and power supply board and the electrolytic board is almost completely new components but the two amplifier boards (left and right) are 100% untouched. We know that the output transistors are good because the relay clicks and i have clear good music. but beyond those if there is any other fault in those two boards i dont know how to go about checking.

(what you are hearing in this video is both relays clicking at the same time)


please please ... anything. at this point, any ideas.
 
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I got the service manual from norman. Dave i gotta thank you for pointing me in that direction. this is awesome and so so worth the money. absolutely top notch. now i can actually point out components by their correct label and value.
 
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