Elac Miracord 10 & 10H

[62vauxhall]

I just learned that there exists two versions of this Elac model.

Being attracted to turntables (record changers actually) from the 1960's, I've been actively looking for one of these Miracord's locally and I've just been advised of one.

The photos I looked at show it as a model 10 not 10H. Up till now, I was only aware of the 10H.

So this newfound info says the H refers to a Hysteresis motor. I did not know that. I have a 50H with one of those motors but have seen other Elac's (600 model numbers) woth more common open frame asynchronous ones.

I guess the latter is what an Elac 10 (no H) is equipped with.

Oh well, beggars can't be choosers I suppose and if the table is good cosmetically with no missing parts, it will do.

I wonder if when buying one of these things new, what the difference in price would have been between a 10 and 10H? Seems like kind of a niggling detail to offer two motors

And then, so I read, there is an F model for use by Fisher. I wonder what was different about that one.

 

[ear4audio]

From a 1963 magazine ad:

The Model 10H with hysteresis motor: $99.50. Model 10 with 4-pole induction motor: $89.50.

 

[Hajidub]

Look's like me and Vaux have similar taste! Though I've never owned a 10 or 10H (only a 50H), the simplicity to me is brilliant.

 

[monkboughtlunch]

And then, so I read, there is an F model for use by Fisher. I wonder what was different about that one.

The Fisher F model is just a "10" with white paint and Fisher badge on the counterweight. They were bundled with Fisher consoles. Thus, the Fisher F model has the cheaper, inferior "10" motor. It's not as a good as a 10H. The "H" models have a PAPST hysteresis motor which locks onto the mains frequency for virtually precise rotational velocity and are immune to voltage fluctuations. I would only consider an H model with the PAPST motor, personally.

 

[62vauxhall]

That ad copy is priceless. I was ten years old in 1963 with a weekly allowance of 25 cents. The cost of either turntable would have been an unfathomable fortune. I don't think anyone in my family ever saw $100 in one place.

I agree that Pabst motor would be more desirable, but depending on condition and price, I'd go for it. If for the only reason, none of this model have popped up in the flesh during the times I've spent scanning for one.

 

[likebike23]

I say go for it. Even if it doesn't have the upscale motor it's still a nice table. I have a 10H and man does it have that idler slam. I can't imagine the motor is the only reason for the sound.

Heads up, check the cart. Mine had an Elac STS-222 cart installed. If yours does that would be worth a hundy alone.

 

[62vauxhall]

It'll be a week or two before I get to see it. The fellow who gave me a heads up about it coming in doesn't know cartridges from pineapples, he just deals in "stuff". He does know what turntable are but that's about it. I've been called a few times for advice if something he's found is worth going after or not.

I do look forward to seeing what cartridge it has - if it has one. I've gotten hold of a few 1960's turntables that came with period correct cartridges and they are quite enjoyable.

And yes, an Elac cartridge would be nice.

 

[62vauxhall]

Darn....it's a ceramic. A "flip around lever" so I'm told so I can only draw that conclusion.

 

[stratokaster]

As far as I remember, Elac also had a mono magnetic cartridge with flip-around styli, somewhat similar in style to GE RPX/VR cartridges

 

[62vauxhall]

I was able to pick up the Elac 10 two days ago. No exotic cartridge - just a garden variety Astatic.

But a bit of maintenance turned ugly.

The platter bearing was in need of attention so I went about removing it. I have done this twice before to different Elac's and it was more or less straight forward. But in this case, a small-ish diameter threaded shaft. bonded to a part called "support plate" got broken, It occurred while attempting to loosen a small locking nut so I could spin off a big nut as per first photo. Basically, I twisted it in half.

**EDIT: Having had some time to digest this occurrence, I think the small nut was over torqued during assembly at the factory and the threaded portion got stretched/fatigued. It should not have "given way" as easy as it did and the small nut should have come off more easily. Someone to whom I showed it to commented it looked like cheap pot metal, not steel which was exactly what I thought when it happened.**

I am not optimistic about repairing. But I will look at drilling the shaft out of the "support plate" and replacing with a bolt of sufficient length, correct diameter and thread pitch.

If anyone reading this has an Elac carcass or a stash of parts and can provide a "support plate" I'd like to hear from you. From what I've read so far, this part is the same in all Elac's from the 10 onward so the model of table it comes from is irrelevant.



The portion of the shaft still attached to "support plate".



The entire "support plate" - aka desired part.

 

[likebike23]

Oh man, that stinks. I remember trying to remove the locking nut to get the top plate out of the way so I could then remove the support plate. The locking nut wouldn't easily come off for me either and I felt I would have to force it, so I stopped and found another way.

For anyone reading this in the future, don't remove the locking nut!!!! You can slide the top plate out of the way just enough so that you can get a wrench on the nut holding the support plate. Remove the support plate and the top plate as one piece and you can then get access to the platter bearing and cam.

I'm sorry that your model 10 broke. I think it's worth it to find the part/solution. Maybe @JFRACE can help you out. He was kind enough to send me parts from a trashed model 45 (I think). Anyway, good luck and make sure to update with your solution.

 

[62vauxhall]

Turns out the bolt/machine screw size is 5mm. I took the nuts with me, found they matched thread pitch of the fasteners I found and bought an assortment of 3 lengths. Those I got are hex head cap screws and will use a bench grinder to take down the heads to a negligible thickness. My intention is using JB Weld to affix the modified bolt to the support plate.

Another challenge I noticed this morning is the tonearm wires, where they attach to the mute switch. I expected them to be the typical single conductor type but found them instead to be 2 conductor shielded. Very minute 2 conductor shielded I might add.

These need to be teased away from the terminal strips to unsolder. Not looking forward to dealing with those - single conductor tonearm wires are bad enough.