Need An Adhesive That Can Be Removed With A Light Solvent

Mister Pig

Pigamus Maximus
OK I need to mount a tone arm collar to an aluminum arm board for a trial, but do not want to drill any more holes for the mounting bolts. Basically I am not sure this table is a keeper, and while I have the tone arm collar mounted with a temporary adhesive, I want to be sure a more rigid coupling does not change anything. The current attachment is quite strong, and nothing ever shifts or moves. This is just a proof of concept endeavor, and if it does not show significant changes then there is no reason to progress farther.

So far I have used a blue tak type substance that has worked well in this application before. I am thinking of a superglue gel type adhesive, as it will give a rigid coupling and can be deactivated with acetone. I can then repaint the arm board with a flat black, which is the current finish.

Any other thoughts?

Cheers
Mister Pig
 
There are removers (debonders) for CA (cyanoacrylate) type adhesives -- I do not know how well they work.
If you go that route, don't go with hardware store/discount store grade CA ("superglue") -- go to, e.g., a hobby supplier & get the good stuff.

Tower Hobbies, e.g., sells good CA adhesives and should have debonder (and accelerant, too).
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=RGC&P=ML&D=Adhesive---Cyanoacrylate-Glues

consider medium or thick CA adhesive -- cures slower but can fill gaps and generally easier to work with and stronger (IMO/IME) -- strength is mission critical for, e.g., R/C aircraft airframes :)

Debonders:
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=RGD&D=Adhesive---Cyanoacrylate-Debonders
 
When I'm testing an arm on a table I use Duct Seal. It is an oily-putty type dough that is easily cleaned off with dish soap or windex. You can also build up the height with it.
 
There are removers (debonders) for CA (cyanoacrylate) type adhesives -- I do not know how well they work.
If you go that route, don't go with hardware store/discount store grade CA ("superglue") -- go to, e.g., a hobby supplier & get the good stuff.

Tower Hobbies, e.g., sells good CA adhesives and should have debonder (and accelerant, too).
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=RGC&P=ML&D=Adhesive---Cyanoacrylate-Glues

consider medium or thick CA adhesive -- cures slower but can fill gaps and generally easier to work with and stronger (IMO/IME) -- strength is mission critical for, e.g., R/C aircraft airframes :)

Debonders:
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=RGD&D=Adhesive---Cyanoacrylate-Debonders

The basic ingredient found in these products is Acetone. It works very well and is inexpensive. Otherwise, nail polish remover will do the trick, but it sometimes contains a scent material to mask the natural acetone odor and sometimes a dye to make it easier to see. It is also very expensive when compared to acetone. CA "debonders" are primarily acetone marketed as a specialty item at a comparatively astronomical price.
 
I use a few different methods of securing smooth materials temporarily that require a
very strong removable bond.
My first choice is transfer tape which can be found in a variety of
bond strengths and adhesive formulations including structural rated types.

For your application assuming little surface imperfections a very thin type with
little core height would provide an absolutely solid removable bond.

3M has some info under their UHB tapes.
 
For making temporary or remove-able bonds between plastic and / or metal (basically non-porous materials) Elmer's White Glue works well. Since it meant for porous materials or wood, where it is absorbed, it doesn't have a very strong bond between non porous materials and can be removed with heat or water.
 
Problem with CA is that it can "frost" most plastics leaving a white mark/haze.

A small spot with a hot glue gun will work, not mark anything, and is very easy to remove.
 
Problem with CA is that it can "frost" most plastics leaving a white mark/haze.

A small spot with a hot glue gun will work, not mark anything, and is very easy to remove.
The metal acts as a heat sink, rapidly cooling off the hot melt glue. To get around that you can heat both surfaces with a heat gun.
 
I am thinking of a superglue gel type adhesive, as it will give a rigid coupling and can be deactivated with acetone.
Cheers
Mister Pig

This is the way to go. As suggested, buy a quality cyanoacrylate super glue, such as:

https://www.parts-express.com/maxi-cure-super-glue-cyanoacrylate-adhesive-gel-1-oz--340-620

and its compatible de-bonder:

https://www.parts-express.com/super-glue-cyanoacrylate-debonder-remover-1-oz--340-640

"A few drops of Un-Cure debonder will soften and dissolve cured cyanoacrylate adhesive in about one minute. Perfect for correcting mistakes, separating bonded skin, or for removing adhesive from clothing. Can also be used as a paint remover. 1 oz. plastic bottle."

I've used this combination for years now, and the debonder works fine. Just be careful that you do not dissolve nearby labels, lettering, etc..

GeeDeeEmm

340-640_HR_0.jpg
 
Problem with CA is that it can "frost" most plastics leaving a white mark/haze.

A small spot with a hot glue gun will work, not mark anything, and is very easy to remove.
That is true (at least for some plastics) and something I conveniently forgot (given that I've rarely if ever used it reversibly, but I am sometimes a little sloppy with it).

Hot glue is quite worthy of consideration, I'd opine.
 
Thing about CA is that it doesn't even have to be the part you are gluing that can "frost." The fumes will "frost" even proximate materials that are suseptable to it.
 
Thing about CA is that it doesn't even have to be the part you are gluing that can "frost." The fumes will "frost" even proximate materials that are suseptable to it.
Good point.

And I especially like the option of hot glue, for the reasons you cited. I'm changing my opinion - hot glue.

GeeDeeEmm
 
Durabond Weldwood--contact cement--easily removed with acetone. 3M Scotch #61--it is a spray, but you can spray some into a vessel and paint it on with a small brush--contains a red dye, so you can see exactly where it is and how much is there--totally removed with turpentine.
 
How about the double sided tape that comes with 3M command hooks? I think they hold quite a bit and then just pull on the tape to remove it.
 
I'm against CA glues on metal. A 5 minute epoxy will do the trick, and the shorter the cure, the more brittle it is, making it easier to remove. I've messed with many kinds of glues in my hundreds of hobbies.
 
OK I need to mount a tone arm collar to an aluminum arm board for a trial, but do not want to drill any more holes for the mounting bolts. Basically I am not sure this table is a keeper, and while I have the tone arm collar mounted with a temporary adhesive, I want to be sure a more rigid coupling does not change anything. The current attachment is quite strong, and nothing ever shifts or moves. This is just a proof of concept endeavor, and if it does not show significant changes then there is no reason to progress farther.

So far I have used a blue tak type substance that has worked well in this application before. I am thinking of a superglue gel type adhesive, as it will give a rigid coupling and can be deactivated with acetone. I can then repaint the arm board with a flat black, which is the current finish.

Any other thoughts?

Cheers
Mister Pig
PVA as indicated by dr*audio
you cannot 'deactivate' cured cyanoacrylate with acetone
what you are thinking about out loud is set up for misery I think
PVA is the best way to go with a light clamping force to get things as rigid as is possible with adhesive because this will make film as thin as possible
let is cure at least 24 hours before you do whatever it is you are doing
best luck whatever you do
 
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