Accuphase P-600

I do primarely two things to those Accuphases. First is to remove the powercord and put in a simple ac-inlet, no fuses-no switch (see link)

http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/Small/70080620.jpg

The Next will be to hardwire the trafo directly(!) to the ac-inlet, if the trafos primarys are too short then extend them with simular size solid core copper wire. To finish this mod, get some heavy fire-alarm cable or anything else made from solid core copper conductors, absolute minimum here is 12awg. This powercable must be plugged directly into the walloutlet, no extensionwires.

Second part of the mod: the signal inlet wires on these amps goes a long way, including a volume-pot meter for each channel. Mediocre cable quality here and a volumepot too much. Find a place on the big rear panel to make holes for two new inputs, rca or xlr depending on your need. Order a few meters of the tv-coax Vivanco KX-710 and use the inner core from this coax to lead the inputsignals +/- from the New inputs to the printboard. (no need to strip the coax)

This is what these amps needs to get out their full potential. Just do not connect them with some tiny stranded speakerwires, minimum 9awg solid core
 
I think the 510 makes most amps look like toys... hard to compare that build quality
Well, there comes a point that it's so over killed that it won't make any difference. This is home hifi, you don't need 1000W+. I think for home use, 100W is plenty, key is to be able to drive 2ohm or even lower. You make the amp too much power, you are going to have high rail voltage of 80V+ each rail. To even get decent idle bias current like 1A, the amp will be sitting there burning 160W per side or 320W total. You need air conditioning in the room. At 1A idle current, you only get 8W of class A. If you keep the idle current lower, then you really sacrifice the sound as the amp goes out of class A even at low volume.

I had a chance to buy a Krell KSA250 for $1800, I decided against that. It burn 12A from the wall at idle or 1300W of heat just at idle. Imagine the electric bill if I use it 5 hours a day.....both the amp and the air conditioning.

I use 9 pairs of output transistor per channel in my design, but I decided to keep the rail down to 35V to get only about 120W into 4ohm ( my speaker). In fact, I just brought up my prototype amp on wood board today, I use only +/-27V supply, it's plenty loud already. I rather keep the max power low, but have enough bias current to keep the first few watts in class A where 99% of the listening level is in. Even at this low voltage and 0.7A idle current, still it is burning 50W per side and 100W total idling. Still it is quite hot.

It is quite easy to get high power and show off when people come over to listen, it is day to day use that I am more concern when I don't have nobody to impress and I am listening or watching tv alone. In my case, it is very easy to jack up the power by upping the rails. I have 9 pairs, easily get to 300W+ with a good chassis with big heatsink.
 
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I don't know what it is about the M-510; In a previous thread about DS2000's components there was a photo of it which to my opinion looked like the amp was smiling. Well here's another example of the M-510 smile Look at the space between the two round power transformers. There it is again. A smiley face.

index.php
 
Well the P-600 has been put in a bag and shelved until I can rent a car and gather 3 projects for the tech in Brooklyn. It won't be long, within a month. For now, at least it's dust and dirt protected.
Also eagerly waiting for the bottom plate and knobs to be found.
 
Well, there comes a point that it's so over killed that it won't make any difference. This is home hifi, you don't need 1000W+. I think for home use, 100W is plenty, key is to be able to drive 2ohm or even lower. You make the amp too much power, you are going to have high rail voltage of 80V+ each rail. To even get decent idle bias current like 1A, the amp will be sitting there burning 160W per side or 320W total. You need air conditioning in the room. At 1A idle current, you only get 8W of class A. If you keep the idle current lower, then you really sacrifice the sound as the amp goes out of class A even at low volume.

I had a chance to buy a Krell KSA250 for $1800, I decided against that. It burn 12A from the wall at idle or 1300W of heat just at idle. Imagine the electric bill if I use it 5 hours a day.....both the amp and the air conditioning.

I use 9 pairs of output transistor per channel in my design, but I decided to keep the rail down to 35V to get only about 120W into 4ohm ( my speaker). In fact, I just brought up my prototype amp on wood board today, I use only +/-27V supply, it's plenty loud already. I rather keep the max power low, but have enough bias current to keep the first few watts in class A where 99% of the listening level is in. Even at this low voltage and 0.7A idle current, still it is burning 50W per side and 100W total idling. Still it is quite hot.

It is quite easy to get high power and show off when people come over to listen, it is day to day use that I am more concern when I don't have nobody to impress and I am listening or watching tv alone. In my case, it is very easy to jack up the power by upping the rails. I have 9 pairs, easily get to 300W+ with a good chassis with big heatsink.
I had the KSA-150 and it ran brutally hot, over 6a. The Accu and Onk draw about 300w at idle, it takes an hour for them to be fully warm, the tops are warm, but not outrageously so. Seems a good compromise, they both sound fantastic with everything. (Less time spent with a different P-600 a while ago, but still memorable enough to know i wanted one)
 
@Ds2000 did a fine job of getting the name change on this forum. Got this thread hauled over here, too. Now there is some serious Accuphase talk going on and well some have posted pictures. This thread even has pictures but they don't give any impression of what the amp looks like as a whole working unit. Be nice to see that pic so we can help wish it were working.
 
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I don't see on hifienflgine.
Accuphase plays it pretty close to the best.
Some third party people have manuals and schematics.
You'll likely have to dig a bit and pay:idea:

Very impressive looking :thumbsup:
 
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