technics linear tracking issue

Yuaaaaaaaaan

Active Member
My Technics sl10 has a issue, the tracking arm does not move along with the cartridge. So I can only play for a few minutes until it starts to skip.

However I can move the arm by pressing stop then pressing start (has to be this way, just pressing start won't move the arm). But at a new position, the same issue. The arm does not move while playing the disc.

I opened it up and cleaned the grease (as far as i can reach) and the belt seems fine. What would be the reason for this issue?

Thanks
 
I suspect the belt first, be sure the arm can smoothly fully transit the entire path with the shuttle buttons.
 
My SL-5 does the same thing after some inactivity . I just keep moving the arm back and forth with the buttons until all is well . Works for me .
 
Two main causes are the most common:
Bad tonearm slide belt (found in the left/back edge of the top cover). If it slips, it causes the tonearm assembly to stay behind. It doesn't skip, it stays behind and repeats previous grooves usually.
Dirty slip rod for the tonearm. If it's dirty, motion is uneven and you can see that from the glass cover as the tonearm moves in discrete steps rather than showing a gradual, even motion. That can also happen with a tonearm belt that is the wrong size (smaller). (don't ask how I know).
 
Here are some videos that helped me fix my Sl10. They're very helpful, and the belt/dial cord cleaning procedures may help you sort out the problem with yours.
Also, double-check the arm belt for any slack and make sure it moves as the motor turns.


I hope it helps!
 
Thanks everyone
I guess I will try a new belt, but the arm does move when I press stop and then start, could this be anything else ?
Also, what should I use to re-lube everything ?
 
Thanks everyone
I guess I will try a new belt, but the arm does move when I press stop and then start, could this be anything else ?
Also, what should I use to re-lube everything ?

Yes, but you said that once it is in a new position, the needle won't move forward and it will start skipping again, right? In my experience, that is related to the belt tension. Maybe it got slack enough not to "respond" to the short "bursts" from the motor when trying to keep up with the groove-tracking. I understand it is getting cold up there right now, so that may have an influence on the belt. Is the cueing function working?
 
I've come into a used SL-5 that has the Drive/rope string is frayed badly. It looks very similar to the radio dial string but finer, smaller.
Anybody have suggestions on a suitable replacement material?
Many thanks
 
I was about say plumbers o ring can do it - but looks like balifly has right part.
 
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Thanks for the replies folks. The square rubber motor belt is also needed. The original is loose and floppy.
The big malady is the 'Drive Rope' as identified in the Service Manual. It's still there but fatally frayed and need replacement. It's more like the dial cord on old radio tuners.
Picture attached. I had it open but neglected to size the diameter. I hoped to research it first before disassembly, never having done a dial cord before.
I searched the forums pretty hard but could not locate much. It seems the SL-10 probably has a similar mechanism.
Ideas?


SL-5_Tonearm_DriveRope.png SL-5_ToneArm_DriveRope.jpg
 
Looks like it measures .6mm / .024"
Using a cheap pair of digital calipers - it pretty tiny
Getting tension on it will be a challenge - it's still intact but barely.
The lubricant is old and very sticky - what's a modern recommended lubricant?
 
"My Technics sl10 has a issue, the tracking arm does not move along with the cartridge."

Same problem with my SL-10. All the suggestions above are good, but mine had a different problem entirely, and caused the exact same fault — "I can only play for a few minutes until it starts to skip. However I can move the arm by pressing stop then pressing start (has to be this way, just pressing start won't move the arm). But at a new position, the same issue. The arm does not move while playing the disc."

The leads that exit from the rear of the tonearm (they carry the signal from the cartridge) are 'dressed' loosely, almost a loop. They have to be, because as the arm moves across, the wires have to 'give' and move with it.

The wires go (eventually) to the outputs: direct to the MM, or to the MC head-amp. On the way, they passed through a square hole in a piece of black plastic.

With mine, the 'loop' in the wires touched the edge of the hole, and couldn't pass through it. That stopped the arm — it just skipped over and over on the same groove.

I only saw this by operating the TT while apart, and upside down; it wasn't easy.

Re-dressing (bending) the wires so they didn't 'foul', and putting a dab of lube on them, and the edges of the hole, fixed it.

So if you already have it apart, and before you spend the time/money on other fixes, just trace the small wires from the tonearm, and see if you see what I saw. You won't have to operate it upside down as I did — if you see the wires anywhere near the edges of the hole, that's your problem.

I couldn't find a picture in the service manual that shows it. For one thing the pics are b&w and the wires are colored, easily visible to the naked eye.

Secondly, there are a couple of drawings of the arm — but they don't show ANY wires! Obviously they're there — the cartridge doesn't communicate by telepathy or Bluetooth.

Hope it helps, it's a great TT worth keeping forever.
 
thanks for the thoughtful and detailed reply.
The fraying of the 'drive rope' reduced the continuity down to the thinest of the nylon core line.
This thin nylon core stand is passing thru the crimped brass connector that anchors it to the tonearm assembly, thus no moving the tonearm.
I removed the gear wheel and the drive rope. It's about 32" spread out lengthways.

It's also crimped at the spring that attaches to the nylon gear wheel.
I cut it there because I thought it would be easier to size it there should a solution present itself.

The challenge will be finding a suitable size cord and replacement crimps. It's pretty tight tolerances. Tiny and precise.
 
The challenge will be finding a suitable size cord and replacement crimps. It's pretty tight tolerances. Tiny and precise.

You may be able to improvise with something like this,
71TceAiS5tL._SL1500_.jpg


Or un braided smooth
51v-r5lnutL.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Line-Backing...JP4394Q1WH4KDRZJ0&refRID=SEGJP4394Q1WH4KDRZJ0
:idea:
 
Here's the brass crimp that snaps into the tonearm assembly.
This seizes the 'drive rope' and registers the drive system to the tonearm assemblybrass crimp at tonearm assembly SL-5.jpg
 
Well - Lots of good suggestions folks - I appreciate the feedback and input.
I went to a local jewelers supply and looked at crimps and cord.

I purchased a nylon bead cord close to the original size and sterling crimps. I was able to construct a rough approximation of the linkage. It's Doable.
I don't think this particular nylon cord is correct enough. Its not as dense a braid weave and much stretchier.

I think its time to research other cord options. It really is more like radio dial cord - I'll look for a comparable size.

The real trouble is figuring out the size of the loop and placement of the original brass connector on the cord to seat back into the tonearm carrier. It had become free floating from the cord degradation.
An OEM replacement would have already been sized to make a direct fit. This one was tight with no slack until you worked it off the spindle.

I had to snip the OEM rope to remove it because it went under another component. Layed out end-to-end is 85cm +-
My first effort seemed much larger than the original even after winding around the gear wheel as per illustration.

The grease on the rails and surrounding areas is very sticky and gummy. Comes off somewhat with 91% alcohol. Used small amounts of lacquer thinner in some places.
Be sure to service yours for new lubrication. I'm certain the damage was provided by loss of lube and too much friction.
 
If the belt is an issue as on my SL-7 it has to be replaced with the correct one or it will not work.Look up the belt for yours it should be out there.
 
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