Toilet internal leak: is flapper the only possible culprit?

It's most likely one of the things mentioned above by the others, but when we moved into our house (15yrs ago), we had a problem with a toilet slowly leaking like you describe. The house had a home warranty for a year and we called out the plumbing company. They first replaced the flapper - didn't solve the problem. Then they replaced all the mechanical parts completely - didn't solve the problem.

They concluded that the toilet was just old and had small cracks in the porcelain that the water was slowly leaking through. Don't know if this was really the case, but they replaced the bowl itself and the problem was solved.
 
i pretty sure sure crane uses a standard gasket , home depot, lowes, ace hardware all sell tank to bowl kits but there are a couple of different size gaskets, usually a thin one and a medium size (standard) one and maybe the thicker one. you dont need to always replace the gasket if it looks to be in good shape, its best to bring it with you and get the same type, or a couple of different they sell them separate as well, and return the ones you dont need.
here is a link to home depot for a kit they say is for crane
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-T...5s9kphAxSNa8C8B7Lg0aAtDYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Chrisxo55441 said:
i pretty sure sure crane uses a standard gasket , home depot, lowes, ace hardware all sell tank to bowl kits but there are a couple of different size gaskets, usually a thin one and a medium size (standard) one and maybe the thicker one. you dont need to always replace the gasket if it looks to be in good shape, its best to bring it with you and get the same type, or a couple of different they sell them separate as well, and return the ones you dont need.
here is a link to home depot for a kit they say is for crane
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-Tank-to-Bowl-Kit-for-Crane-88192/204485123?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|VF|D24|Multi|Behr|PLA|Paint|Behr|Liquids|PRO_Test|71700000044461313|58700004623150629|92700038935113912&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_4jgBRDhARIsADezXcju56Zzn4f3zxDK9Ybi38pddvI1RvIPpldr5s9kphAxSNa8C8B7Lg0aAtDYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click to expand...


Thanks, that is what I will do next. Good to know that Crane uses a standard gasket that is likely to be available. When I take the toilet apart I will only have a few hours, while the tenant is at work, to get it put back together.
 
It may be a week or more before I proceed further with this project. But I will update this thread when something happens. Thanks again to all who have posted :)
 
I've replaced 3 hardened and shrunken flap valves in the porcelain bum trumpets in our house. They looked fine until removed, then obvious that they couldn't close the opening into the bowl.
 
The repair kits usually have a flush valve, fill valve, tank-to-bowl gasket, new gaskets for fill valve and flush valve, new hardware to secure tank to bowl, and gaskets for the bolts. About $15-20, for something that will fit your Crane.
 
The tank-to-bowl through screws/nuts are frozen together. IIRC I have had to drill them out in previous projects. Hope there is an easier way.

I have them soaking in PB blaster. PB is great for rusted nuts 'n bolts on cars. But I don't think rust is what is causing these nuts to be locked up, and also don't know if PB blaster will do any good here.

Anyone have tips for breaking these loose?
 
If you have hard water it may be calcium/magnesium scale, try Lime Away or CLR.

If they're brass maybe just corroded together and nothing really works on that...
 
I have one of those one piece toilets that I replaced the flapper on to stop the leak. It appeared to be the correct fit, But it still leaked. The mating surface seemed smooth and clean too. Could not find the correct complete assembly at many hardware stores. But managed to find one for another brand at the local Canada Salvage where if they don't have it, It probably doesn't exist. That fixed the problem.
 
I've had pretty good luck going to a plumbing supply when I have troubles like that. They usually have a much bigger selection of parts and they know what they're looking at when you show them, so you don't have to find it yourself. It can cost more but you're paying for the expertise.
 
I got one of them loose. Guess the PB did do something. The other is soaking. Can't continue today because the tenant will be home from work soon. If the 2nd bolt won't loosen tomorrow, I can get a hack saw blade in between the tank and bowl. The bolt appears to be brass so should be easy to cut if necessary.



roger2 said:
The tank-to-bowl through screws/nuts are frozen together. IIRC I have had to drill them out in previous projects. Hope there is an easier way.

I have them soaking in PB blaster. PB is great for rusted nuts 'n bolts on cars. But I don't think rust is what is causing these nuts to be locked up, and also don't know if PB blaster will do any good here.

Anyone have tips for breaking these loose?
Click to expand...
 
Just like a toilet, it would depend on what's leaking, and from where.

Aaand this thread just went down the toilet. :cool:
 
roger2 said:
thanks for all the informative and helpful responses...


So today I shut of the supply and emptied the tank. The old flapper had significant mineral deposits, which would make me think that the leak was through that seal. But the mating surface, the hard plastic rim that the flapper rests on, looked clean. Even though it appeared clean, I kept that mating area wet with CLR for about 4 hours then wiped it down thoroughly with a Scott-Brite pad, after which I could neither see nor feel anything on it. But with a new flapper there was still a slight dribble into the bowl, even 30-60 minutes after a flush.

So, not really sure exactly where it is leaking, but is clear that the entire flush valve (as pictured in @Chrisxo55441 's post) will need to be replaced, and that means that the tank will have to be taken off. Did not have time to do that today, and probably will not do it for a couple weeks as other projects are more pressing currently.

Another question for you plumbing experts: will it be difficult to find the gasket (rubber ring) that mates tank-to-bowl for this old toilet?


View attachment 1343870 View attachment 1343871 View attachment 1343873 View attachment 1343875
Click to expand...

Holy crap Roger, I have the same brand toilet with the exact same issue.
 
roger2 said:
The tank-to-bowl through screws/nuts are frozen together
Click to expand...
hack saw will work, i have a Milwaukee 12v hackzall that i use now but used to use a small plumbing hack saw

2ENA3_AS01
 
Thanks @Chrisxo55441

I used a hack saw blade with a bunch of duct tape wrapped around one end for a handle. Cut through the bolts no problem. Access was actually very easy.

But...

I installed a new flush valve and can still see that the water still dribbles into the bowl.

No leaks at the bolts or the tank-to-bowl gasket. I cleaned and inspected all mating surfaces and saw no defects. Made sure that the flush valve was centered in the hole when tightening it, and tried two different new flappers (Fluidmaster & Corky). I even removed the fill tube from the fill valve (no change). The gasket on the bottom of the fill valve (Jones & Stevens "Douglas" model) seemed a bit harder than I would have thought. But I compared it to others and they were the same.

What could I have done wrong? The flush valve (chosen for me by the expert at local plumbing supply) is plastic so I did not want to tighten the (plastic) nut too tight. Would over-tightening or under-tightening this nut cause a leak?

The frustrating, and puzzling, thing is that the water dribble into the bowl looks exactly as it did before I replaced any parts. :confused:
 
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