Carver DTL-100 CD Player dropped dead
- Thread starter CavScout
- Start date
find and download service manual, inspect schematic for any circuit breaker (rare) or fuses (common),
and there may be one or two hidden like underneath, behind a shield, etc.
then if you are experienced you can try tracing the power supply, assuming there is no indication
of power (no lights, no hum when listening closely, no mechanical motion), and the eject button fails, etc
and there may be one or two hidden like underneath, behind a shield, etc.
then if you are experienced you can try tracing the power supply, assuming there is no indication
of power (no lights, no hum when listening closely, no mechanical motion), and the eject button fails, etc
look on the schematic and parts list (this is better since they will list parts by function))
some fuses are encapsulated and do not look like the older car fuses with metal
end-caps and glass cylindrical bodies.
the schematic will verify the existence of a fuse usually as a "F" part with a number.
lastly, some "IEC" style power connection may have a fuse inside the external
portion, there is likely a label and/or stencil description for fuse or rated current.
it may not be a fuse, but check the schematic for all power after the (usual) bridge
rectifier. eg no other transformer tap nor off the primary side of the AC feed. if so
and the power (and others) light is thus powered then the problem is either
the power transformer or the bridge. the former may have an embedded
fuse to protect that side of the winding. or the bridge supplying ALL power is
blown and cannot light anything, preamp, lights, etc.
if you post a pix of the power section we can go from there.
some fuses are encapsulated and do not look like the older car fuses with metal
end-caps and glass cylindrical bodies.
the schematic will verify the existence of a fuse usually as a "F" part with a number.
lastly, some "IEC" style power connection may have a fuse inside the external
portion, there is likely a label and/or stencil description for fuse or rated current.
it may not be a fuse, but check the schematic for all power after the (usual) bridge
rectifier. eg no other transformer tap nor off the primary side of the AC feed. if so
and the power (and others) light is thus powered then the problem is either
the power transformer or the bridge. the former may have an embedded
fuse to protect that side of the winding. or the bridge supplying ALL power is
blown and cannot light anything, preamp, lights, etc.
if you post a pix of the power section we can go from there.
the fuse is "AGC" plus there's an R73 between it and the transformer means it's external
to the transformer and should be able to be found (easier to say this) by following the
leads to/from AC and the transformer.
to verify this, (that is no internal transformer fuse) is to google "617-..." (cannot see the
other digits as O or 0) - the partnumber for the transformer).
the fuse is 1/8A, and should be in a chassis-mounted fuse holder or an inline fuse
holder that you twist and pull apart. you need to find this and verify it is bad before
anything else like buying a new fuse.
AGC is a physical fuse size and competes with the 5mm short fuses you see in many units.
I also doubt the fuse is inside that black plastic thing, an AGC wouldn't fit and is not
originally design-intended for this type of embedding; if for no other practical reason
than the glass cylinder is intended to be used as a view into the fuse. the other side
should be female AC prong sockets due to the wires hanging off it. and a fuse cannot
be used across the AC lines. my opinion is that it is the "A" and "C" from the schematic.
trace those wires - it will lead to the fuse. I now suspect, because there are no other power
activated lights, that the fuse is your problem. now the issue is why it blew.
to the transformer and should be able to be found (easier to say this) by following the
leads to/from AC and the transformer.
to verify this, (that is no internal transformer fuse) is to google "617-..." (cannot see the
other digits as O or 0) - the partnumber for the transformer).
the fuse is 1/8A, and should be in a chassis-mounted fuse holder or an inline fuse
holder that you twist and pull apart. you need to find this and verify it is bad before
anything else like buying a new fuse.
AGC is a physical fuse size and competes with the 5mm short fuses you see in many units.
I also doubt the fuse is inside that black plastic thing, an AGC wouldn't fit and is not
originally design-intended for this type of embedding; if for no other practical reason
than the glass cylinder is intended to be used as a view into the fuse. the other side
should be female AC prong sockets due to the wires hanging off it. and a fuse cannot
be used across the AC lines. my opinion is that it is the "A" and "C" from the schematic.
trace those wires - it will lead to the fuse. I now suspect, because there are no other power
activated lights, that the fuse is your problem. now the issue is why it blew.
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take several pictures of the area - pics that follow the wires from the black plastic plug to the
transformer and to the AC supply.
the fuse, blown, explains the power off condition. and the schematic shows a fuse and no other
way any light is powered except through the bridge circuit that follows the transformer. therefore
any power for the unit, including lights must come from the Power supply circuit that has
fuse protection prior to the transformer.
transformer and to the AC supply.
the fuse, blown, explains the power off condition. and the schematic shows a fuse and no other
way any light is powered except through the bridge circuit that follows the transformer. therefore
any power for the unit, including lights must come from the Power supply circuit that has
fuse protection prior to the transformer.
1. numbers don't match? pix2 shows about 10 opamps, and are they on the schematic?
2. can't read parts stenciling on PCB from pix1 - maybe me.
3. pix4 - good start, I see brown, blue wires (usually chosen for AC-side power)
4. where is that black plastic thing in your earlier first pix in relationship to these pix?
(I suspect the fuse will be attached at some point to the wires in this pix)
I'd go back in and take close-up pix of the right side of the transformer in your pix4
and work your way back to the AC feed into the CDP. what we're looking for is
a fuse that may be hidden underneath something:
a. its mounted on the chassis inside, on the back panel, or floating
b. tracing these wires by hand and by pix will lead you back and
either you find the fuse or as you say the schematic doesn't match the CDP
I would hand trace each wire from the right side of the transformer all the way back
to the AC inlet. pull up, gently, and take pix. closeup and crop (big battle between
pixel count maximums and details when blown-up).
is that schematic on the right side of pix4 pasted inside or your copy?
do you have a VOM/DMM. you can verify the fuse is not in the transformer
by measuring the resistance between the AC-side power wires (blue, brown
and should only be the two) at the transformer, and if there's no available
wire junction to do so, then move away and find the first.
A fuse explains the problem, and the schematic shows one, and pictures
and hand following the wires will prove it. However, if the schematic
and/or the unit does not have a fuse, then it will take someone
going in and tracing the live power to the point of failure.
2. can't read parts stenciling on PCB from pix1 - maybe me.
3. pix4 - good start, I see brown, blue wires (usually chosen for AC-side power)
4. where is that black plastic thing in your earlier first pix in relationship to these pix?
(I suspect the fuse will be attached at some point to the wires in this pix)
I'd go back in and take close-up pix of the right side of the transformer in your pix4
and work your way back to the AC feed into the CDP. what we're looking for is
a fuse that may be hidden underneath something:
a. its mounted on the chassis inside, on the back panel, or floating
b. tracing these wires by hand and by pix will lead you back and
either you find the fuse or as you say the schematic doesn't match the CDP
I would hand trace each wire from the right side of the transformer all the way back
to the AC inlet. pull up, gently, and take pix. closeup and crop (big battle between
pixel count maximums and details when blown-up).
is that schematic on the right side of pix4 pasted inside or your copy?
do you have a VOM/DMM. you can verify the fuse is not in the transformer
by measuring the resistance between the AC-side power wires (blue, brown
and should only be the two) at the transformer, and if there's no available
wire junction to do so, then move away and find the first.
A fuse explains the problem, and the schematic shows one, and pictures
and hand following the wires will prove it. However, if the schematic
and/or the unit does not have a fuse, then it will take someone
going in and tracing the live power to the point of failure.
have you hand traced the wires? if so, and no fuse, then lets go back to your first
picture and black plastic thing (BPT).
if the other side does not have a female AC prong socket, then if that is directly
wired from AC input to the transformer then yes, it might hold a fuse. take
more pics of all sides of the BPT and post, there should be an opening for
pulling the fuse.
to ensure safety, take pix of where that BPT is mounted, it should not be free
standing hidden somewhere. anyone sticking a finger in while live can get a
nasty shot - there are bare joints on that BPT.
picture and black plastic thing (BPT).
if the other side does not have a female AC prong socket, then if that is directly
wired from AC input to the transformer then yes, it might hold a fuse. take
more pics of all sides of the BPT and post, there should be an opening for
pulling the fuse.
to ensure safety, take pix of where that BPT is mounted, it should not be free
standing hidden somewhere. anyone sticking a finger in while live can get a
nasty shot - there are bare joints on that BPT.
it is important that you
1, trace the wires from the BPT and that it is in series with one (or the other) AC supply lines
2. it is NOT in parallel or across the AC lines
3. measure resistance of the BPT to verify there's an open (eg blown fuse)
can I assume you hand-traced the wires as I suggested? I prefer to explain what
I can see from pictures and not take a wild (for me) guess.
that BPT from the first pix seems to have three or more wires. I would rather
find out where they go before I assumed it contains a blown fuse.
however, if all the questions and answers have been exhausted then what's
left is the BPT being a fuse. but I would only go forward with pictures that
confirm this.
1, trace the wires from the BPT and that it is in series with one (or the other) AC supply lines
2. it is NOT in parallel or across the AC lines
3. measure resistance of the BPT to verify there's an open (eg blown fuse)
can I assume you hand-traced the wires as I suggested? I prefer to explain what
I can see from pictures and not take a wild (for me) guess.
that BPT from the first pix seems to have three or more wires. I would rather
find out where they go before I assumed it contains a blown fuse.
however, if all the questions and answers have been exhausted then what's
left is the BPT being a fuse. but I would only go forward with pictures that
confirm this.
