Rekokut help please

[52tiger]

Hello, I’m a proud new owner of a Rekokut B12H with the Ashland motor. I waited several months to get it in my hands.

Unfortunately after only having it 2 days the power decided to stay on continuous.

I could move the switch to off and the power light is still on and the motor still running.

So decided to just put the turntable on it’s own power strip for on and off function.

Then the speed started changing it was strange I was enjoying a record and I heard the speed drop very weird.

I’m not the handiest person but checked the oil in the spindle and it appeared a little low added some 3 in 1 and all was well until today and the speed is off again.

A little fast on 33rpm and very slow on 45.

This is a great turntable and I just want it to be operating correctly.

I bought the table and new plinth together and the plinth maker replaced the idler wheel rubber as well as the lords grommets

I would appreciate any and all info

Thank you, Scott

 

[beatcomber]

Ancient turntables inevitably require some servicing right out of the gate, and it's in your best interest to learn how it works so that you can do your own troubleshooting.

Having just serviced a pair of these recently, I can confirm that they are not especially difficult or complicated to take apart and put back together, just go slowly and take photos as you take it apart so that you have something to reference when reassembling.

It could be that some moving parts just needs cleaning and re-greasing (I used white lithium on the contact points), or possibly something needs adjusting. If you pop off the speed selector knob, you can use the supplied hex wrench to finetune the idler pressure, which in turn affects the speed stability.

You might find this thread helpful:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/just-unexpectedly-won-a-rek-o-kut-b-12-h.829384/

 

[52tiger]

Thanks for the reply, here’s what I have, didn’t come with a hex wrench but I have a crescent

I did read where it needs to be tight but not to tight, I’m thinking the wheel is not adjusted properly. I’ll try and read up on it some more.

Really don’t want to take it apart but may have to.

 

[beatcomber]

Yowza, that's a beaut! It's an early one too, pre-1958.

It can be scary going under the hood if you're unsure of yourself, but that's the only way to diagnose the problem. You need to study how the parts interact to figure out what isn't working right.

Perhaps @monkboughtlunch can offer some suggestions of what to look for.

 

[52tiger]

It never was drilled for a tonearm either not sure why

 

[beatcomber]

This might also have some helpful info:
http://jelabsarch.blogspot.com/2012/06/rek-o-kut-tips.html

 

[52tiger]

Yes thanks interesting reading,

Should there be play in the switch between the 33 and off and 45 and off
Mine has quite a bit of movement.

 

[UncleBingo]

If there's a cap across the power switch, replace it. The TT will stay on all of the time if it goes bad.

If the speed is off, you may need a new motor-run cap also. Should be a metal can with a rubber boot on it. The motor requires a specific value to the windings in order to time the motor properly.

 

[52tiger]

I only see one cap and I was told it’s connected to the micro switch
I don’t see any other caps.because I’m not handy I bought this thinking it had already been gone thru but I’m finding out that’s not the case

I understand this is old and things happen.

 

[52tiger]

Also when the platter is pulled and you turn it on and switch from 33 to off and or 45
Should the idler wheel move or does the platter have to be touching it for it to touch the spindle?

 

[beatcomber]

Yes thanks interesting reading,

Should there be play in the switch between the 33 and off and 45 and off
Mine has quite a bit of movement.

I know what you're talking about, and that is not right. It should be quite tight.

IIRC you will need to tighten it from inside, underneath somewhere. It's been several months since I did it, so I can't remember exactly how/where, but I think it came up in the thread link I posted, so you might find the answer in there?

 

[52tiger]

I have been reading the thread and it’s full of useful info, thank you!

I took the knob off and adjusted the hexnut and got my 45 setting to 44.9 not sure if I can hear it’s slow or just know it is,so it’s in my head.

And the 33 is 33.4 so I think I can live with what I’m hearing.

Gonna read some more. I also ordered some of those ceramic nitrate silicone bearings. Might make it run smoother but then I read about the possible divot it could cause because of the different material.

Scott

 

[52tiger]

As far as the switch I just had to tighten the screw

 

[beatcomber]

Excellent, you're making progress!

Still stuck in "on" mode, or has that also been resolved?

 

[52tiger]

Yes, still stuck in on, I tried some contact cleaner to no avail, someone suggested that the cap might need replacing?

I did get ahold of the gentleman I bought it from and he did take the motor apart and said it looked very clean and he oiled it and put it back together.

 

[monkboughtlunch]

Hi 52tiger,

Nice specimen!

First, let's rule out what is probably not the cause of our "stuck on" power problem:

1. Your platter spins, so the larger motor run capacitor is functional and we can disregard it for now. (The motor run cap is used to get the motor moving.)
2. The small red capacitor is only for arc suppression so a "pop" is not heard in the audio, so we can disregard it for now.

Next, I would suggest the problem is probably that the cam is not depressing the button on the side of the black power switch.

See photo below.

On the side of the "black power switch" facing the "cam" there is a small metal button. When the cam is turned to an "on" position by the rotary selector on top plate, the cam will depress the power button on the side of the black switch. When the cam is turned to an "off" position by the rotary speed selector on the top plate the button is released and power goes off. If the switch is loose, has play or is moved slightly, power on and off will not work properly.

See if this will fix the issue:

1. UNPLUG the unit for safety.
2. Loosen the black power switch so it can be swiveled a few millimeters.
3. When the black power switch is loosened, use your finger to feel the small metal button on the side facing the cam. Then turn the power switch slightly so that the cam (when turned to an "on position" by the rotary selector on the top plate) engages the power button when the speed selector on top is turned. Once you find the optimal spot for the black power switch, RETIGHTEN IT. Make sure it also turns off in this new position when the knob on the top plate is turned to off.
4.Plug it in and test it with the switch in this new position.

You are basically just turning the power switch it a few millimeters. But those few millimeters will make the difference between a functional and non-functional power switch.

If the power switch doesn't have any play just try tightening it if it is loose.

You may also need to loosen / adjust / tighten the cam as well, but start with the switch first and report back.

If this is not the problem, we can explore other potential causes. Good luck!

 

[52tiger]

In order to loosen the power switch will I need to remove the table from the plinth?

I did notice the switch moved a little when I was adjusting the hexnut and also the cam.

Something else I noticed my table doesn’t seem to have the wafer to keep the plunger from going in to far, should I get one?

I read that when you turn on the switch it should be silent but I hear the wheel making contact

 

[monkboughtlunch]

In order to loosen the power switch will I need to remove the table from the plinth?

I did notice the switch moved a little when I was adjusting the hexnut and also the cam.

1. Don't remove it from the plinth. I think I can walk you through this repair without dismantling it. Unplug power for safety.
2. I created an infographic (see below).
3. The power switch assembly is affixed by the same screw that holds the cam assembly.
4. Unscrew partially the cam assembly screw (not much, just enough to wiggle the power switch assembly)
5. Wiggle the power switch into a position so the cam assembly makes contact with the little power button when the speed selector knob on top is turned on (i.e. to 33, 45, 78). In this optimized power switch position, the cam should make no contact with the power button when selector knob on top panel is turned to "off."
6. Retighten the cam screw once power switch is aligned.
7. Then plug it in and test it.

 

[52tiger]

The way my cam is attached it never clears the button on the power switch

I did move the switch but it still always makes contact with the cam

Nothing like the separation from your photo

 

[52tiger]

Is mine mounted wrong?