Rekokut help please

Something else I noticed my table doesn’t seem to have the wafer to keep the plunger from going in to far, should I get one?

If you are missing any parts, send me a private message and I will try to help. I have a lot of spare parts.
 
The way my cam is attached it never clears the button on the power switch

I did move the switch but it still always makes contact with the cam

Nothing like the separation from your photo

The cam must clear the button when the selector is turned to off or your table won’t power off—it will be stuck on.

The power button is spring loaded. When the cam pushes the button in, the platter spins. When the cam doesn’t make contact with the button, the spring loaded button pushes outward and the power is off. This is how it should work in lockstep with the speed selector knob on the top plate.

Your power switch button is too close to the cam if it is still making contact in off mode as you describe. In such an event, the switch needs to be wiggled few millimeters further away from the cam so the cam doesn’t depress the switch when the speed knob on top plate is turned to off.

Since the switch assembly is affixed via the same screw as the cam, the switch should move in an arc — not laterally. I haven’t worked on my switch in 4 years, but I seem to recall I had to rotate it a hair — not push it outward.
 
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It appears that my switch is connected to the pressure for the idler wheel, when I listen the cam it want budge but is I losen the hex nut it moves easily
 
It appears that my switch is connected to the pressure for the idler wheel, when I listen the cam it want budge but is I losen the hex nut it moves easily

The cam and the power switch are affixed to the same screw that slides when pressure is adjusted.

Again, I would loosen the screw and try rotating the switch a degree or to in relation to the cam. Very minute adjustment.
 
I loosened the screw quite a bit and couldn’t get the switch to budge.

The table is sounding so good that the inconvenience of having a separate power strip is really not a big deal.

I may try it again in a day or so

Thanks everyone for their help.

Scott
 
I do want this table to be setup and functioning properly.

How lose can I get the screw?


You mentioned something about not to much.

Thanks, Scott
 
"2. The small red capacitor is only for arc suppression so a "pop" is not heard in the audio, so we can disregard it for now."

If that cap is shorted, the table will stay on. My Rek-O-Kut had that exact thing happen, so maybe don't disregard it for now. You can de-solder or cut one lead of the cap to confirm if it s the problem.
 
The pulley in this pic,that the idler wheel couples to spin the platter never shuts off

I guess the wheel moves enough for it to disengage because the platter stops in the off positions but when you pull the platter and look at the pulley it’s on in all positions

So you might be correct about the cap
 

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"2. The small red capacitor is only for arc suppression so a "pop" is not heard in the audio, so we can disregard it for now."

If that cap is shorted, the table will stay on. My Rek-O-Kut had that exact thing happen, so maybe don't disregard it for now. You can de-solder or cut one lead of the cap to confirm if it s the problem.

That's a good point. Those red caps are known to fail.

Perhaps 52tiger could loosen the cam so it is not depressing against the power button all the time (like it apparently is now). Then plug it in. See if motor is off when table is plugged in and the cam is not touching the power button. If it's still on, that small red arc supression cap may be bad.

I would loosen the cam and use a chopstick or popsicle stick to depress and release the power button on the switch with the table plugged to rule out the cam / power button physical connection. If that is ruled out, I'd look at the small arc supression cap.
 
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I will try that but in order for the power switch to move at all I’ll have to loosen the hex nut and lose my speed again.

I unscrewed the cam screw all the way out and the power switch still would not budge even a millimeter.

So not sure why but that’s the way it is. Apparently it may be connected wrong

As of now I have my speed dialed in and enjoying how wonderful this table sounds

So until something else happens I’m going to just enjoy it.

Thanks for all info and advice.
 
You may need to loosen the hex nut on top that controls speed to loosen the cam. It’s been several years since I took mine apart and don’t recall the exact steps. I took mine completely apart to clean and lubricate and that made it easy to adjust the cam and switch.

Ultimately, you may just have to remove it from the plinth and tinker around with it.
 
Yes I think you have to loosen the hex nut as well and it would all be easier if it was out of the plinth

But I just got it and want to enjoy it for awhile before I take it apart
 
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