Recapping 4-pot Sansui 1000a - Need multi-cap wiring pics

[marcgetter]

I am in the process of slowing recapping my 4-pot 1000a. I don't know the serial number since the plate that on it is gone. I do have the late 4-pot schematic, though.

In any case, I started with the 2 multi-caps. One is the 20/20/20/20 at 300v and the other is the 20/20/20 at 500v. In the process of replacing the 500v cap, I think I may have screwed up one of the wires. I had them labeled but for some reason I neglected to take a picture and realized I missed one after I had them all soldered back on.

I am in the process of tracing through the schematic and trying to figure out the problem from that route, but I'm wondering if someone else with a 4-pot model would be willing to send me a clear picture of the wiring to the 500v multi-cap so that I can know if I've got it right. A picture of the 300v multi-cap would probably be helpful to for reference, but I'm pretty sure I got that one right..and I do have a before picture of that one.

Thanks!

- Marc

 

[BmWr75]

Tough lesson.....I always take pictures, many of them, before replacing any components. Draw diagrams too for multi-cap cans because there are so many connection to many of them. I don't have the unit you are working on, but am sure someone here does and can help you out. Good luck with the refurb!!

 

[larryderouin]

I'll see if I have some close up's of mine. If there are no resistors hanging off the ends of the tab's, and all the sections are the same it really shouldn't matter which wire goes where, BUT!!!! Myy mind has gone faster than other parts that were supposed to go 1st. So I'll check the pic's.

 

[larryderouin]

The power supplies on all of the 1000A's are the same. The only real differences are the bias setup's for 1-2-& 4 pots. And the tuner section on the earliest 1 pot unit's. So you can use any of the schematics for the power supply and be ok.

Here's a pic of mine originally as it was from the factory. The lug with the BLACK SPOT is the GROUND! I'll open mine up and take updated pics as I have stuffed the 4 section cap and installed a CE 20-20-20 @ 525V can in place of the 3 section.

 

[larryderouin]

Due to wire length constraints (burned and such) I reversed Pins 1 & 2 when I installed my CE 20-20-20-@525v. It works fine tho.

Anyway, I took the pic from the prior post, and marked up the wires, resistors and which pins they are on.

If you restuffed the old one, the ground will go toward the middle of the unit. With a new one orient the open side toward the middle and number your pins 1-2-3 in clockwise manner. Then follow the markups on the picture. download, and run on whatever viewer and blow it up some as the additions are kind of hard to see without being blown up.

How mine looks right now Mine is a FEB-'66 2 bias pot model that has been modded to 4 pot. This was my 1st tube receiver rehab 5 years ago. And haven't touched it since. So don't mind the somewhat messy joints. They look like shit, but they are good and stable.

 

[mrflex65]

Marc,
See if these pics can help you out.....

 

[marcgetter]

Thank you all very much!

 

[larryderouin]

So what's the verdict????

 

[marcgetter]

I've been so busy, I haven't had time to work on it. I'm crossing my fingers, though, that one of those sets of pictures will help. If they don't line up, I'll post pictures of what I've got and see if we the combined effort of AKers can help to revive it.

- Marc

 

[wweigle]

I have a four pot. I had these photos in the computer. I have not done the recap and its just sitting, if you would like me to open it up and take more photos, mine likely is pretty original inside. Sorry photos are not very good.

 

[marcgetter]

Larry, doesn't look like yours matches up at all. I appreciate you posting the pics, though.

Rudy, are those pics from a 4-pot or from the 2-pot you were working on? Yours looks close and I think I may know where that extra wire goes. The red wire on the bottom coming from the power supply. It looks like I have it connected to the same point as the black and brown wires. I think I need to connect it to the same point as the 100k resistor.

wweigle, would it be possible for you to send some close ups of the same multi-cap towards the middle of the board? If you look at the left side, middle, it's the third barrel cap over like in mrflex's post.

Thanks everyone. Hopefully this will make this perfect for me.

- Marc

 

[marcgetter]

I think someone else had posted 4-pot pics, but they have disappeared. Am I imagining it?

- Marc

 

[marcgetter]

Well, looks like that one wire was it. I powered the receiver up on a variac yesterday and it came up with no sparks, fires, explosions, or even sputtering. Thanks everyone!

- Marc

 

[postman56]

Does anyone has a service list of electrolytic's needed to recap one of these 1000's, any help would be appreciated.

 

[FlaCharlie]

Does anyone has a service list of electrolytic's needed to recap one of these 1000's, any help would be appreciated.

They should have the values printed on them.

Check your inbox, I sent you a private message.

 

[FlaCharlie]

One thing you should be aware of with these, and other vintage Japanese gear, is that all the small grey PIO caps need to be replaced. Yes, ALL of them. They are notorious for being electrically (and maybe even physically?) leaky.

I found a dead 1000A many years ago and used the output transformers to build a PP 6B4G amp.

 

[postman56]

Thank-you very much for that, looking forward to hearing a fresh 1000