Denon DCD-3000 Mod Thread

Only if she reads your posts. Fantastic work. Well documented.

Well, heck. I think that she suspects. ;) Thanks very much for the kind words.

Speaking of documentation, there's something that I forgot. Decoupling the 6x op-amps in the analog section.

I'm a little upset at the moment because I know that I took a good number of photos of this but I can't find them. The best that I can do at the moment is a view of what I did with my DCD-2700:

DSC06523.JPG

The suggestions/examples from the LME49720 data-sheet show a 47µF + parallel 0.1µF set of caps on each power supply line to the op-amps. I used some more Panasonic FM and TDK FA MLCC-C0G for this.

IC315 ~ 318 have pins 3 & 5 tied directly to ground. So I attached a cap set between 3&4 and 5&8 to decouple/stabilize the power rails here.
IC311 & 312 only have pin 3 tied to ground. So I had to go with 3&4 and 3&8. It was tight space wise but doable.

When I find my photos I'll edit this post and insert them.

One important note. In the last 5 years I've so far been able to get all my caps installed correctly until last week. These added caps need to have the + to the power rail and - to ground, regardless if the power rail is + or -. With no markings other than what one wants to make themselves it's easy to get a cap in backwards here.

I did that last week. After installing all 12 caps and putting the board back in place I turned on the player and ran a test CD. It went fine for the first 15 seconds or so until Mozart hit the first energetic passage and BANG! That cap was seriously insulted from this mishandling and tried desperately to go home. Blew the can completely off and left the plug, leads and guts hanging there. Lucky for me there wasn't any extra damage and not so much of a mess to clean up.

So, don't do what I did, pay extra careful attention to polarity with these additional caps.

Cheers,
James
 
A few random thoughts.

After making some soldering mistakes with a DCD-1290 and 2700 I've gotten in the habit now of turning the room lights down after finishing a board and back-lighting it with a small flashlight and looking over every square centimeter with a magnifying glass. It's really easy to spot solder bridges and forgotten (or partial) solder points this way.

I checked/measured all of the old caps. The Elna Silmics and ASF held up quite well over the last 24 years and measured pretty good for capacity and ESR. The black NCC/UCC SME caps not so much. They were all down ca 20% and had ESR ranging from 2% to 4+%.

I think that if somebody is going to do only one thing as a mod, by all means work the final output coupling caps. Regardless of what is done upstream if those things are left the way they are they are going to degrade the signal. The change to a bi-polar electrolytic cap with small value film bypass/parallel caps is significant!

Cheers,
James
 
Sorry to hear about the BW cap. That does wake you up the hard way. Have had caps explode like that at work. Bounce off the ceiling they do. I use a 12X magnifier to check PCBs for solder splashes and bridges. Had it since 1980 to view slides.
 
Hello, I am rescuing this issue because I have problems with a Denon dcd-S10 player that is the same as the DCD 3000 we are talking about.
"Bratwurst7s" you are an artist, magnificent restoration. Can you help me?

My Denon DCD S10 cd player stopped reading discs. The lens did not move and it did not recognize any disc.
Buy two KSS-240 pickups (China) because replacement is easy. When I installed them neither of the two heads made the disk work. The lens was moving but the spindle motor would not start.
I looked at the service manual and it has a self-adjusting digital servo that needs a test disk.
I put a normal disk, but the instructions are a little confusing and the player doesn't seem to react exactly as stated, this most likely means only that I'm not doing it correctly.
The PCB does not have a potentiometer for adjusting the focus gain, tracking, etc.
The mechanical parts seemed to be fine, I went through all the things that I have read in this forum. Also to make sure I was able to buy a cheap Denon DCD-615 player that worked perfectly and with an original KSS-240 head. It has the same table where the pickup is installed and also a kss-240. So I could rule out that it was the spindle motor or the tracking motor.

With the original KSS-240 table and head of the dcd-615 model the spindle motor was still not moving. Since I didn't have much to lose I put back a Chinese pickup and moved the EF BALANCE pot counterclockwise, then it recognized the TOC and a few discs played to the end, but many had skips, tracking problems, access to slow tracks , stops ...
I also moved the FOCUS BIAS pot a bit but nothing improved.
My questions:
When changing the pickup, how can the adjustments be made?
Is it necessary to have the test disk to run the service program? (Impossible to get)
Is it possible to adjust by moving only the EF bias and EF balance pots with an oscilloscope at the test points?
Could a control signal in the digital servo circuits be wrong?
(Now I have 3 kss-240 heads (one original) and a player that doesn't work)
Thank you. (sorry for my English)
 
Hello, I am rescuing this issue because I have problems with a Denon dcd-S10 player that is the same as the DCD 3000 we are talking about.
"Bratwurst7s" you are an artist, magnificent restoration. Can you help me?

My Denon DCD S10 cd player stopped reading discs. The lens did not move and it did not recognize any disc.
Buy two KSS-240 pickups (China) because replacement is easy. When I installed them neither of the two heads made the disk work. The lens was moving but the spindle motor would not start.
I looked at the service manual and it has a self-adjusting digital servo that needs a test disk.
I put a normal disk, but the instructions are a little confusing and the player doesn't seem to react exactly as stated, this most likely means only that I'm not doing it correctly.
The PCB does not have a potentiometer for adjusting the focus gain, tracking, etc.
The mechanical parts seemed to be fine, I went through all the things that I have read in this forum. Also to make sure I was able to buy a cheap Denon DCD-615 player that worked perfectly and with an original KSS-240 head. It has the same table where the pickup is installed and also a kss-240. So I could rule out that it was the spindle motor or the tracking motor.

With the original KSS-240 table and head of the dcd-615 model the spindle motor was still not moving. Since I didn't have much to lose I put back a Chinese pickup and moved the EF BALANCE pot counterclockwise, then it recognized the TOC and a few discs played to the end, but many had skips, tracking problems, access to slow tracks , stops ...
I also moved the FOCUS BIAS pot a bit but nothing improved.
My questions:
When changing the pickup, how can the adjustments be made?
Is it necessary to have the test disk to run the service program? (Impossible to get)
Is it possible to adjust by moving only the EF bias and EF balance pots with an oscilloscope at the test points?
Could a control signal in the digital servo circuits be wrong?
(Now I have 3 kss-240 heads (one original) and a player that doesn't work)
Thank you. (sorry for my English)

Hi Luiso,
It has been a couple of years since I worked on that player. Please give me a couple of days to review the SM and what I did back then.

Cheers,
James
 
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