OldSch00l

Also was this the type and size of Cap - Cap Film 0.47uF 250V PET 5% (9.5 X 20.5mm) Axial 125°C

Thanks for all your help.

Hi Oldsch00l, I have sourced the Bulgin LED switch and as noted below have sourced the 0.47uf 250v capacitor. Is there any chance you can tell me how it all goes together, for example what wire goes where. I think you had an image of the circuit in one of your earlier replies below but it is no longer there.

Many thanks.

Hi oldsch00l. I am just in the process of refurbishing my own 398 and would love to know where you got those spikes from. I love your turntable and it inspired me to get one of my own to upgrade. I started a thread here on AK but have only just started the refurb process. Look forward to your reply.

Thanks very much.

Thanks
Im on the lookout for a Linn arm, Ittok are holding their value well, it looks like it belongs on that table. The arm rest is perfect no hole to cover.
The entire table is a work of art. finish,arm and switch.
bob

Hi Bob,

The Linn arms have nearly identical geometry to the stock Empire arm(s) so they seem to be the best option for a drop-in replacement. In order to get the Linn mounting collar to fit you need to: 1) enlarge the center hole so that the lip of the collar just fits inside of it 2) drill a new set of mounting holes for the Linn collar, opposite from the existing mounting holes 3) If it is an Ittok - drill a hole for the arm rest

I think I have the dimensions for the various holes somewhere that I will try to dig up, if not I imagine they are floating around the web somewhere. You can probably get an idea from this pic:

The Empire/Linn is what Im looking for. How difficult was mounting the Linn on the Empire base ? I have 2 stock empire tables, and on the lookout for a Linn arm like yours.
bob

Thanks Comet! I specifically bought the Ittok for the Empire, I had actually been using a Basik Plus before that. I think I have arrived at a very nice sound with the table/arm/cartridge combination. At this point, I have found myself content with where I am at with my analog front-end, and being that I am rather obsessive that is saying a lot!

I have seen mention of a few places that would sell or fabricate a solid plinth, ranging from $600-800. I looked up what a piece of aluminum would cost that I could machine myself and it was around $170. I have been considering joining the local "maker" group so that I have access to the machinery necessary to do it myself. The membership dues are about $40/mo, so even if it took me a year I would still be in the black!

That will probably be the last stage of upgrade, along with refinishing the wood base or building one that is more robust. After that, I don't see myself ever needing another turntable.

I love your table! Cosmetically it's first-rate. How are you liking the Linn arm? Did you use it elsewhere before putting it on the Empire? I also like your idea of the Bulgin switch. As I mentioned on the Empire history thread, I'm in the process of building one too, altho I'm not sure whether I'll machine my top plate to match the original. It's already a lot thicker than the cast one, but I'm also adding a layer of 11/32" steel and 2.25" of MDF to mine.

By the way, if you do decide to pursue a solid top plate, you should explore buying one from Atma-Sphere. Ralph Karsten told me the price for his (out of 3/4" alu) would be about $800. I'm a little sorry that I didn't go for it myself. The cosmetics are right, and it would sure speed up my project!

Anyway, you did a great job!

Thank you!

I used a .47uf 250v cap, and I order most of my components from Digikey. I used the first circuit shown in this diagram:

Hi - I'm in the early stages of an Empire 208 redo myself. I wondered what value capacitor you used to drop the voltage for the LED'S in the Bulgin switch, and where you sourced it?

Your 208 is the most pleasing piece of eye candy I've seen on these 50+ year old treasures. Very very well done!