Greatbear
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  • Boy is this late... I don't check on this stuff very often. My humble apology

    I used "Slime" brand rubber cement for my surrounds. Clear, water thin. About $2 for a tube (one ounce) Three brushed on coats. I experimented by saturating a piece of cloth with it and checking on how it dried. After a week it felt like there was nothing on it but it would hold water... good enough for me. Couldn't blow through it either. A total resto, caps, resistors, cabinets, clean the cloth. The second one is near done now. I'll post them sometime. For a complete period system, I have a Sansui 2000x or a Scott 337. I've got lots of other gear but this is so rewarding.
    As a footnote, I'd like to make the case for total sealing vs the time element. Air is compressible.. therefore it's use is for damping. How long must it damp movement ? Not long at all. Might make a good discussion. But not on AK.
    thanks,
    Dennis
    As an old time mechanic I can appreciate your approach. Sometimes the exact part can be substituted. It's results that count. Making something work again is the desired end. I don't subscribe to the "this is the only thing" theory. I did try your suggestion of vulcanizing cement (Slime brand) on a piece of fabric. My results were promising. Water proof and still retaining the original properties. I intend to coat the surrounds of my 17's and expect satisfactory performance. I originally rejected the AR formulation because of color. At the time I only saw it as black. 17 surrounds are orange. Now I see it can be had in clear. Still, hard to get (out of it currently) and pricey as well. I've had occasion to get first hand contact with AR coated 17's. Not as flexible as it's made out to be. The cone movement seems fine though. On that basis, I see no need to get all that picky. I will post pix at some point after both are done.
    Since it gets louder with the volume, you can rule out components beyond the volume control. Since it is noisy in the inputs you state, and all of these inputs involve additional circuitry over the aux input, look for power supply noise as well. In many of these receivers, a separate power supply feeds the phono preamp, the mic preamp and the tuner.. The small interstage coupling capacitors can cause noise too. With the phono input selected and no signal, turn the volume up and down and watch the speaker cones. If they move in and out, there is a DC offset from the staged before the volume control getting into the signal path. This is caused by the small interstage coupling caps being leaky or shorted.
    Do you have a can of component freeze spray? Spraying individual components in the preamp stages with very light amounts of the freeze spray can cause a change in the noise. If a particular part being sprayed makes the noise louder or stops it, that's the bad component. I've had transistors, diodes and capacitors all contribute to such noise. Freeze spray can help find the component.
    The noise is in pré section, because I am using pré section this receiver (sx6000) with a power section by other pioneer sx.(626). Thank you Greatbear
    is an irregular blow's noise, which increases when the volume increases, and decreases when reduce the volume. It seems that the sound continues as normal, and this noise occurs in the same time, irregularly. Blow-noise is higher in PHONO, MIC and FM / AM sections. The auxiliary gets smaller .... thanks. Havols
    Hi Greatbear. I'm writing from Brazil. I have a pioneer sx 6000. When it is in PHONO, MIC or TUNER section, one noise like a blow in its outputs... more in left side than right.... I recapped the pre amp e eq boards (except 4 sanyo caps 1uf and 0.22 uf in eq board) and the noise continues. Where can be the problem? Thank you
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