Binkman
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  • Hello; The best thing is to post your issue on the SS or DiY forums Probably a simple fix but I'm not familiar with that amp.
    Hello. My M90a has never had front lights (first red, then yellow), but it has always worked. I recently made an update to the capacitors. The M90a sounds good, but the light still doesn't turn on when I press the power button. I replaced the two bulbs (one covered with red and one covered with yellow) with other originals. No lights come on yet, but my M90a sound good. I ask for your help Thanks
    Hi. My M90a never had lights, but it always worked. I recently made an update to the capacitors and transistors for the drivers.The M90a sounds good now, but the light still doesn't turn on when I press the power button. I replaced the two bulbs (one covered with red and one covered with yellow) with other originals. No lights come on yet, but my M90a works perfectly. I ask for your help. Thank you
    Yeah no shit. My email is jgmach2@gmail.com if you want to chat about stuff. Play chess? used to have some apps you could email. (moderator don't delete please.. it's in the sky and gmail run virus scans all the time.)
    They sure did - do - and they KEEP moving it, yes? Yet, I do clearly remember how much $25,000 a year sounded like in 1975. Today, most would have a hard time living on that.
    You sound like the engineering type.

    I'm not the novice but I don't try to memorize manufacturers models though I scan a lot of schematics. Just wired up an Empire TT sled with new soldering. Very nice tone arms if you can get one or the whole thing. The english market must be very interesting in repair and the like. You blokes tune tube amps in that make the U.S. guys look silly.. but then you have another parts assortment. I've heard some Euro sounds before. very pleasing if not TOL. over the pond.
    Hi Bink - no, I think someone must have either dropped it on that corner, or lifted it by the posts, the end one is completely shot, plastic molding & knob broken - the MM/MC knob (diagonally opposite) is also damaged internally, but hopefully repairable with epoxy. It would have been a quick easy fix if anyone had any posts laying about, but it's a straightforward job to make a new back plate and mount some decent posts - as you say, they're not the best (I have similar on both a TA-F500ES and a TA-F530ES, but they're pcb mounted, and not so easy to change without a good reason).
    I'm still very much the newbie, so slowly working my way through the amp, looking for faults / parts needing replacement, and studying each section as I go.... I much prefer to get it up & running properly before a full strip, clean, and (probably) recap., I'm not a fan of the 'shotgun' approach, I spent too may years in research for that !
    Anyway, thanks again.
    I don't recall.. what was wrong with your terminals anyway? If it's cleaning you can take a dremmel tool and grind off the inside threads to completely unscrew them. Don't really like these terminals anyway.
    Just realised the dimensions don't show very well.
    Each of the 8 binding post holes is 16mm diameter
    Going horizontally - the holes are spaced 24mm centre to centre
    Going vertically - the holes are spaced 34mm centre to centre
    Hi Bink - I've attached a couple of photos, with some dimensions - maybe you could compare to your unit. I'd hate to put you to the trouble of packing / shipping if it's not going to be suitable / useable.
    In case the links don't work, the pics are in my public albums on audiokarma.
    Thanks again, Alan

    [IMG]
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    With your cleaning solution if I use 12 oz of water and 12 oz of HP would I still use 1 tsp of baking soda?
    Thanks
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