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Thanks to @arts for the Sam's Photo facts. I did order the 9.1k 1/2 watt resistor to replace R30 per Terry Dewick's upgrade advice in Hints and Kinks. The one I ordered is rated at 350V. If I'm reading this right, I need to upgrade that one.

Isn't it that distortion people think give it that old tube sound? I do wonder how much distortion the resistors added new compared to now though.

Thank you

Only voltages I see on the actual schematic is the .5v preamp input and the main transformer input voltages of 125V and 117V. I was trying to extrapolate which resistors had what voltages from the Voltage and resistance chart.

Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure the schematic has the necessary information to determine that or, I don't know how to interpret that info. I'm not replacing any of the Carbon Comps unless they're out of spec... I'll check them again in a month or so after they're being used regularly and see...

As far as I can tell, R19, R20, R27 and R28 are the only ones that need to be higher than 250v.... Could someone please confirm? I'm still learning schematics. Thank you

It's been a few weeks... Life got busy and these were put on the back burner. I was looking at metal film resistors for these for a few that are out of spec. Most I believe were 1/2 watt unless otherwise noted originally. My biggest concern is the voltage rating of the 1/2 watt metal film...

These are 30 watt mono blocks

I thought maybe the aluminum housing would dissipate enough heat.

I'm planning on using this as a dummy load for a tube amp. See anything about it that screams no? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ARCOL-Ohmite/NHS100-8R0-1?qs=osVJq4lsVJcRNnbAFdVahA%3D%3D I've never tested a tube amp. Would I only need this if I was inputting a signal?

Thank you. This is why I like this place. So many knowledgeable people on here. I think I'm going to stick with the Illinois MPW list I have saved on Mouser.

I believe they are a fairly new series

These are both polypropylene film caps. I have a list of Illinois I plan on using for my project, just thought I'd check to see anyone's thoughts on these.... So many options... Lol https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/PWS1633220KJ?qs=sPbYRqrBIVlECcEuyD2XVg%3D%3D...

Anyone use either of these series to replace old bumblebee caps? Thoughts on their performance?

It says it's specifically designed to clean, protect and lubricate. I doubt it's Deoxit, but was curious since this is the first I've seen it.

I went to a RadioShack... One of the few left in existence... And the owner showed me this cleaner and lube... Said it was a cheaper alternative to Deoxit. I searched previous threads, but haven't seen it mentioned. Anyone ever use it or have any thoughts on it...

Thank you I only see a 100uF 12V electrolytic. Is this what you're referring to? I have a 100uF 25V picked out for it. What would the bypass cap do?

Thanks. I was thinking I could always completely recap one and recap all but those two in the other. Side by side them to satisfy my curiosity. Could always change them after. What did you do with your can caps?

Been reading quite a few threads on MC-30 rebuilds and in a couple, Terry Dewick says he doesn't replace the C10 and C11 Sprague Black Beauties... That they rarely go bad and changing them will change the sonics. Only issue is, only one of my amps has those. Think it would be worth sourcing a...

I was just looking at axial electrolytics on Mouser. Was thinking three of those mounted neatly under the chassis may work better. I've read posts on people tying together the 80 and 30 on the CE cap. What are your thoughts on extra capacitance on these.... Such as 47uF on the 40 and 22 on...

Are the Authenticap a drop in replacement?

There's sooo many caps out there... Lol I hope this weekend to have time to go through and test all the resistors and make sure they are within spec... Then place an order for parts. Are the CE can caps good or am I better off to leave the originals for aesthetics and bypass them with...

Thank you. How would you say they sound?

Thank you. I'm learning as I go. Trying to read as many threads on the subject as possible. I've read several where Illinois caps were suggested. I've also read where all orange drops have been used with the thoughts of film/foil are better than metalized caps

Should I be going with the MWR (metalized polyester) series Illinois caps vs. the MPW (metalized polypropylene) series I have picked out? In the values I couldn't find in Illinois, I stuck with metalized polypropylene. Also, went with Vishay on the electrolytic. Any issue with this brand? I...