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I'm actually thinking of trying out some poly/oil caps myself. The 70s already sound nicely warm, maybe they'll get even more lush.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm just going to replace them with same value Jantzens. But I think I'll also get a couple 6.2uFs and a couple 8.2uFs, just to swap out and compare, since those values are the most common I've seen in other posts. And a I have some 60s I restored last year, and doubled...

Yeah, thanks. I guess I'll go ahead and replace it on both CXs. It's just odd that none of the other photos I've seen have such a thing. It doesn't look like it's been moded, but it can be hard to tell.

I've looked through every Wharfedale 70E post I can find, and there seems to be a wide variety of cap values employed. And I haven't seen one yet with the green resistor. Does anyone know what the factory schematic might have called for? The picture of my new/used 70E's crossover has me puzzled...

I'm not sure where our disconnect keeps occurring, but I completely take the blame. I provided all the information you mentioned in the last post, but didn't get any responses until now. Here's what I put in the Phoenix post: "Resurrected amp project. Half way there. Powers up fine. Relay...

No blown fuses or resistors. Nothing torched or burned. No stanky. Just no voltage. I'm not sure what can be checked in circuit that would give me information I could use. Yes, I started on this amp a long time ago, but it's essentially a virgin. It's gotta be a mistake or a bad component, but I...

I have a newly rebuilt Phase Linear 400 with White Oak parts (posted on Phoenix forum, but no one responded). Powered up fine. Relay tripped. Left channel working great. Right channel dead, with no voltage at bias test point. Checked all the resistors and fuses. Nothing blown. No burned parts...

I used acetone, lacquer thinner, and a tooth brush. It took a while! So I put it back together and it worked beautifully, meaning, it turned on. The power supply is fixed, but now a few seconds after it powers up, the screen goes to SYSTEM ERROR and it won't do anything. The power supply was an...

Just in case anyone is curious, as to the solution to this mystery, I found a photograph of the board. I took it before I started to work, but I thought it had been deleted. Also, you can see some of the cap juice from the blown components. There was four or five times that much on top side. I...

Yeah, thanks for the response. I find the whole thing odd. The more I think about, the more it seems like some repair attempt. I got the unit for free from guy who said it wouldn't turn on. The screen would flash on for a few seconds and then shut down. I figured the power supply was hinky. When...

I went out and made a photograph of the offending board and wire. I just don't see how this came out of the factory. Very weird.

I've just run into a problem with my H500. On the backside of the power supply pcb, there is a wire with a IN4003 diode attached. It appears to start at C07, on the positive side, and then runs to somewhere across the board where it attaches. Well, the end with the diode, opposite the end that's...

I know this is an old thread, but I've just run into a problem with my H500. On the backside of the power supply pcb, there is a wire with a IN4003 diode attached. It appears to start at C07, on the positive side, and then runs to somewhere across the board where it attaches. Well, the end with...

The outcome is that I rebuilt the driver boards, but something isn't right. One of the channels is dead. I made some kind of stupid mistake. I'll have to take it apart again and look for the stupid. But right now, it sits on a shelf awaiting attention while I work on rebuilding a pair of, what...

Thanks. However, searching for the unit using current limiter, or polyswitch still doesn't bring up any information that convinces me it's the correct part. Searching just 'R050' brings up [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MF-R050?qs=A6omU7D3gEWzJRzbTsuTwA%3D%3D] a Bourns product, but...

Embarrassing. Thanks for the input. I'll try a different search.

I have a pair of LS-12, Cerwin Vega speakers that I'm upgrading. I've completely rebuilt the crossovers, but I'm having trouble identifying the little yellow ceramic cap in the circuit. The only markings on it are: B R050 0105S Can anyone help me out with this? There are no schematics I've been...

Couldn't find any binding posts at Wireworld, just cables and spades. Still, thanks.

The spades are about an 1/8" or .165". I was using them on an old McIntosh with standard terminal blocks. I'd like to use something more substantial. Of course, I could always put new, wider spades, but I'd prefer not to. I have several pairs of speaker cables.

I'm building new monoblock amp chassis. I'd prefer traditional binding posts, but with the post screw small enough to accept good spade connectors. Terminal strips are a last resort. I have high quality spades on all my speaker cables, so I'd like to find or make something suitable as a...

Not at all wanting to start a debate regarding speaker connectors, I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas or experience buying or making spade binding posts for amplifiers. Everything seems to be designed for banana plugs, but that means the actual threaded posts are too big, in diameter, to...

Yeah, I have all related manuals and material printed out. And when the unit DID power up the first time, all the voltages were good. That's what's so maddening. As far as resistance with a DMM, I'm going out now and start from the beginning in this diagnostic nightmare.

No, I didn't explain very well. When the transformer leads are connected to the board, my DMM shows 0 volts flowing. If I disconnect the leads from the board and take a reading at the leads, I have the full 12 volts. Put them back in the board and it goes back to nothing. I just can't figure out...

Hell, I don't know. Unfortunately, I don't have another transformer to test with. I'm just stuck. I don't know what to check next. All the circuits trace good. There are no shorts. I'm using a Variac and DBT. Rectifier tube?

Well, I didn't solve the problem after all. I still have something blocking power from entering the power supply. I can't find anything wrong, and I have no idea how to proceed. The transformer is still working, but the moment it's connected to the board, 0 volts. Yet it DID work for a few...