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Here I am reading a nice technical post (which is rare), and then comes this bit that just sadddens me. These claims hold no truth, and with no factual backing. This is just an unnecessary addition to your otherwise great info.

Please stop spreading your ignorance. In the words of Douglas Self, king of this stuff, "amplifiers are not sentient beings" - it will not know what a "complex" signal is. It amplifies whatever signal it is fed, and that is all. It if can amplify a sine wave at 330W, it can amplify a "complex"...

That is a standard type of layout for a relay. You can practically just blindly choose whatever 24V relay you can find, and it'll work completely fine. It looks like the legs might be slightly farther apart than usual though, so you might have to extend them / bend them outward a bit, on the new...

You probably got fakes, yeah. Getting original devices these days is practically an impossible task. SVISTK0039K is just an example of what Technics named all ICs. SVI first, then whatever the real name was. So it most likely used regular STK0039 parts. I never work on STK stuff. It's just not...

It's only natural. They are more recent so they have cheaper build quality. But build quality has no bearing on sound quality, and progress was made in that department all the way into the late 80's. While 70's gear cannot compete with that of the 80's, the B models are at least somewhat more...

It's worth fixing but could be a difficult repair. We need more info than that. Did you check the fuses after it died? Have you checked voltages? Dim bulb tester?

Sound quality and weight is not correlated. This myth needs to be busted.

double postttt

It is normal for this heat sink to get really, really hot - because it is a design flaw in this amp. The 150R resistor right next to it is supposed to be 5W, but is only rated for 3W. It is causing a good amount of smoke and horrible stench, and it must be replaced. When replacing it, make...

Are you sure all the lamps aren't just blown? This is very common. No relay click obviously means the thing is broken. Have you checked any voltages? If you aren't getting anything, you might have a dead transformer. But let's not assume that, it's rare. Just probe around for voltages a bit...

Luxman R-3055 is better and more modern than the earlier R-10x0 series. Better sound quality, clarity, accuracy. Definitely a big step up from your 1030 which frankly is a bit poor. Luxman made some of their best gear in the early 80's, and their absolute best gear in the late 80's. Most of...

Flaky fuses are common in vintage gear, and they are rarely something people tend to check thorougly! Never re-use old fuses. Measure them out of circuit with your diode tester. Many times you can measure hundreds of millivolts across them.

Of course it doesn't sound so great. You're comparing it to nice tubes, something that it desperately wants to be but cannot. Vocal clarity from a tube amp cannot be matched. If it had been designed to be a "natural sound" amp, rather than a "warm, smooth" amp, you might have liked it more.

Just wrap it in tin foil, that way you'll never have to worry about failing fuses. ;) This is why I always replace every fuse in the gear I restore, even if they work. They cannot be trusted.

Why would you look at the wrong service manual when the correct one has all the info you need? :)

Marantz 2015 is in my experience not a good amp. Even fully restored, it provided dull, unengaging music, and was not at all fun to listen to. I was very happy to let it go.

There will always be appropriate snap-in capacitors, and it really doesn't matter what the specs are. Main power supply capacitor specs are incredibly non-critical.

If the primary fuse doesn't blow when you disconnected the secondary from the circuit, it means the circuit is at fault. Something is shorted really hard. Probably as early as rectifier or something else in the power supply area. Check all semis for shorts there.

Note to future readers: do not get a 5W lamp, the current draw will be too high. You're bogging down the transformer by useless light. Not only will the lamp glow fainter than it is supposed to, it will also cause excessive heat by itself and in the transformer, and all sorts of potential problems.

It tends to be quite tough to get off. Just wiggle the cap until it comes loose, or tear it off. The glue will usually stretch out like crazy and then just pop back into place. As tyeeslayer said, it does not need to be cleaned off, and you do not need to apply more. It's part of the power...

A proper fix would be a total replacement. Usually quite easy to do, and switches are mostly readily available. Cheap, too. As for the channel cutting out, seems unrelated to the bad power switch. Take out of service until this is sorted - the thing is a fire hazard.

Read some facts before you start wasting your money. You cannot upgrade your capacitors. Here's a good start from a guy who actually knows what he is talking about (unlike everyone on Internet forums - including me) - http://sound.westhost.com/articles/myths.html

It might be a bad relay. Try replacing it or at least give it a good clean up. The contacts inside are probably charred totally black. Scrape it with some rough paper (not sand paper), followed by the same paper soaked with some strong solvent. If that doesn't fix it, you'll probably need an...

Amplifier reviews are really a waste of text, as it proves and says absolutely nothing. It's basically the reviewer's imagination in written form. If you were to blind test this amp with a much more expensive, brilliant and and highly desired model, you would not be able to hear a difference...

Looking over the schematic for both, they appear to have very, very similar power amps. I would say they should sound no different in that regard , at least. I believe many Marantz models from this era used the same or very similar pre-sections as well. In a blind test, it would certainly be...